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Yes, that is not a fuel line but a pulse line from the crankcase to the carb- it allows a pulse of gasses to activate the fuel pump diaphragm in the carb to pump fuel. Not sure who will carry parts for these in your part of the World.

Might be something lost in translation here- but are we taking about one of the Euromac Timberbears? In America (where most readers are from) the Timberbear was a model based on the metal cased 600 series saws. I believe the Euromac Timberbear was an 849? Plastic cased clamshell design of...

Clips on to the choke rod- see page 20/21 of this IPL. https://www.pilyasekacky.cz/user/related_files/ipl_mcculloch_cs35.pdf

The 036 is a nice saw for firewooding and worth putting the effort into it to make it "like new" again. Possibly (depending on current condition) not worth paying someone else to do the work for you, but a good solid no nonsense firewood saw nonetheless. It could just need new rings to up the...

If it is brand new- take it back to whom you bought it off- it is under warranty. If they tell you that it is supposed to run on gas mixed with oil, then you wear it, if not then they do.

Slightly crazy does not start to cover it. I suggest you stop what you are doing before you wreck the saw and or yourself. You are using a bar that does not fit, hacked up a chain that does not suit and trying to drive it with an incorrect spur drive to the point of constructing something...

Short answer is no- the Asian copy cats do not seem to bother too much with Oleo Mac- so there is no cheap option. Best option would be to try and find a broken saw of the same model in SA that has a good top end but maybe something else major broken so you can raid it for parts. If you want...

Basically the differences lay in the volume of vapour available to the gauge per engine revolution and the pressure it is delivered at- the length of the tube from combustion chamber to gauge and the position/type of valve allowing the vapours to pass- and the springs and balances of the gauge...

Well, that all depends on the gauge you are using and how it reads on small engines. If it is a standard automotive gauge it will not give a true reading- but if you have another known to run good saw and you test it to get the same kind of reading, odds are compression is okay. With a proper...

Plugged vent- plugged filter or collapsing fuel line are possible. Sometimes with age and funny fuels we don't get here- a fuel line will become soft and mushy, under vacuum it will suck flat and cut off the fuel supply. If I was being completely honest though, I do not know a whole lot about...

Yes and if hex tools- NOT ball ended. Although- I do keep one good quality ball head 4mm one for working on 600 series a 200 series saws from Sweden- if I need to remove their carbs without lifting the cylinders.

Yes, that seal. Looks to be rubbed through- or at least has some rotational grazing. Easy way to confirm is to take the saw as it is now with all the other bits in a box with it and take it to your local Stihl shop and ask them to perform a pressure and vacuum test on it please.

True that, but many people lack the tooling required to perform such a test. Might be easier to reassemble the saw to the point the cylinder is back together, but leave the muffler and carb off and take it to a local repair shop and have them perform the pressure and vac test for you, for a...

Most probably cooked the PTO side crank seal and it wont run because it has a massive air leak around the crank if the clutch got that hot you can see it has been hot- seal is most likely poked.

True that, they are a simple and handy tool that can often be had fairly cheaply- much better than fat fingers for reaching in to tight areas a small screw, bolt or linkage may have fallen in to- can often be found, grabbed and extracted with hemostats. Large right angle jawed ones will work to...

Sooner or later, once you start using saws, you turn your hand to fixing them. Be it simple R&M on your own one saw, working on several of your own saws, fixing a neighbours- friends- relations saw, or buying up wrecks and parts saws to rebuild. It takes some basic tooling, some of it kind of...

What u meant I'm sure is Well if you know what is in my head better than I do- you go right ahead and have fun in your adventures.

rings off a 42mm piston will not fit a 44mm piston nor vice versa. My advice would be stay away from the Amazon stuff- measure your original piston, buy new OEM piston kit. I am guessing it was pretty easy to fit the cylinder back on the new Amazon piston? You should have to compress the rings...

Explain more about how the rings "froze". If the saw was running lean, scored up the piston pretty bad and welded the rings into the grooves- I can wear that, but froze? Photos of the old piston will speak volumes. My first guess is- the cylinder wall of the exhaust side is still splathered...

Well, you started with a can of worms that has been opened by a brainless early bird by the sounds. So go over it- all the kill wires and switch- all connections of electrical components- this is assuming the coil is correct and the flywheel magnets are still good.