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Pretty sure this will be the gas tank vent opening and position- if you block it up the tank cannot breathe and if no air can get in- no fuel can get out. I THINK this is the part number and they call it a "stopper assembly" C461000100

Not familiar with the model- but it depends on if the pump is a primer valve or a purge valve. One pumps fuel- the other purges air.

By the vintage of the saw- have not seen many new 10-10's for sale for a few decades! I would be seriously thinking about a new bar, new drive spur or sprocket to go with the new chain. Does not take much for a well worn spur drive to hammer drive links and cause chain jump.

Will be what it is to suit the sprocket drive and the bar type/design- but if it is a well worn old chain- yes it could have had a link removed. How much travel has the adjuster left? If it is near fully out on a well worn 59, then I would stick with 59 DL's- but if it is near the other end of...

Close to $1,000:00 worth of bar and chain over here!

Okay, so what I take away from this is: Perhaps do not buy saws from big department stores with no workshop backing. At time of purchase- verify which party has the responsibility of registering warranty. Is perhaps a victim of the type of fuel you are forced to use and not the quality or lack...

I find it is the body that wanes before the mind. I go out there with the same kind of mental mindset I had 30 years ago- but the body complains. :ROFLMAO:

Over here in NZ those are pretty much standard issue items on any pro work fallers saws- to you guys they are a foreign element. They do help with vibration dampening though and indeed are an improvement here! The 42"bar calmed her down a bit, without it, the saw is a jumpy beast at idle and a...

I have not- but have had experience with a few Asian manufacture swap out engines. Kind of a lottery- the ones I have seen do not replicate the power of the originals- are not nicely made or well finished. Can do nasty things like throw wrist pin clips, piston ring retaining pins, peel the...

It even runs! Yet to be final tuned- but I did not really touch the carb from when it arrived- just popped the covers to make sure the innards were not full of fines, they were not, so covers back on and carb back in- not even a new kit fitted.

So "new" old 2100 piston was fitted, with new rings, lots of small stuff done- like replaced the missing kill switch with a Homelite one, new oil cap, helicoil one flogged out top cover hole, tidier looking clutch cover- 42"GB bar and 123 DL .404 chain........ LOTS of cleaning later. A nice old...

Bore was okay- not pristine new, but okay for another few million piston revolutions- the piston however was not.

Made by Bosch I believe and marked Femsa on the flywheel exteriors. Oh- and fixed position- whereas the 2100 has slight adjustment available.

Here is a bad video to follow- do not drill the tank hole bigger! Line should be 5/16 outside diameter and a snug pull fit to the tank- not a loose push fit as he shows. Can perhaps give you a better step by step in 10-12 hours, Bit busy at the moment.

You have to "split" the case in so much as you take the clutch cover side of the case off fully by removing the bar nut and the screw at the rear of the handle and take that half of the "case" off- not like splitting the crankcase of a bigger more modern saw. Remove the black plastic fuel tank...

Fairly straight forward- just observe how the old line was routed and put the new one back in reverse. There are some tricks of the trade- like cutting the line at a steep angle to pull through the tank- using a draw wire to feed the line from tank fill to line exit, hemostat pliers to pull the...

Split the cases in half, remove the tank and start there- you need the correct inner and outer diameter Tygon line as it is a snug fit to the top of the black tank- but not that tight that it restricts the inner diameter and cuts off the fuel. Short section of line with filter fitted goes up...

Incidentally- does anyone else use KROIL on old saws? That plastic top cover was fairly well oxidised under all the dirt- cleaned off and given a lashing of KROIL bought it back to pretty good condition.

Because of the fact I had rebuilt my 2100 a while back- I had some handy spares- as apart from the rear tank handle and the 2100 having both automatic and manual assist oiler- pretty much everything else swaps over in these 100cc Husqvarnas- some parts from 480 CD up to 288XP will also work in...

Recently had to opportunity to buy an old 1100 CD via a Facebook group here in NZ, for what was one of those possibly attractive prices- or an expensive doorstop kind of deal. Was advertised as having spark, good compression- but would not run. So was a gamble as 1100 ignitions are not an easy...