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Okay, did you test the compression of the old cylinder before you tore it down? If that had given you a reading of 90 psi ish and the new one gave 30 then I would be concerned. More likely is you are using an incorrect style of gauge meant for general automotive compression test use- not...

Sorry- no, but even if I did the shipping from here to there would make it fairly unreasonable.

The CS-590 used a D176 Oregon bar tail mount pattern- so you can use those or get away with the Husqvarna large mount D009 which might be easier to find- so it will be easy to step up from 24". However, with the 590 oil sufficiently out past 24"? Will the 590 have the grunt required for milling...

Pretty sure the Oregon tail mount for these is D096- fits some Remington, Jonsered, Homelite saws around up to 60cc size- chain pitch should be 3/8. However, I am not 100% sure- you are talking about a saw as old as I am! This is what I would be looking for-...

Compared to the more modern side fill- perhaps, but a lot of 1970's designs were much the same, some were just the oil tank in the upper front fill, some were both fuel and oil. Echo hung on to top fill for a long time, Homelites, Pioneer.......

Don't know what your previous procedure was, but it might have been a miscomprehension of the procedure as you do not fully start the saw on full choke. From cold- set the saw master control lever to full choke, pull the rope for 2-3 full extensions and you should feel and/or hear a "pop" of...

I have not looked up the specific procedure for the 180, but I know the newer model 250 is very touchy and you must only pull the rope through its entire stroke 3 times before moving from full choke to half choke- or the saw floods.

Looks pretty normal to me? Id say you may have missed it "pop" on full choke and continued to pull the starter and flooded the saw. Now it is cleaned out and dried up some, it should start and run if using the "as per manual" starting procedure- on the ground and foot on the pad of the rear handle.

Yes, thats the muffler- was going to get you to check the spark arrestor screen under the louvred front grill was not carbon clogged- looks open in your photos so we can scratch that one.

Yes, but is that with the muffler still on the saw?

Just for giggles and while it is half pulled apart- put the starter back on and see if it pulls over easier WITHOUT the muffler on. Perfectly safe to do so and you can even start/run the saw without a muffler- its just a bit louder.

Probably not with a low hour use saw. Did you drop the piston down to the bottom of the stroke to wash it out? My guess is there is something fluid like sitting in the crankcase under the piston causing your issues.

Looks to still be a lot of residual oils and possibly fuel draining from the exhaust port in one of the photos- I wonder if it is flooded well enough to be hydro locked with fluids. You could try removing the spark plug, washing out the cylinder and case with fresh fuel mix and sit the saw up so...

That is one of the grey areas of "proper starting procedure", but I for one never start any saw with the brake engaged. Granted- I have a few years (decades) of experience, but it is one of those grown ups decisions you make now and then in life- your preferred method of starting a saw. Many...

How about if you disengage the chain brake- is it easier to pull the starter rope then?

So you have had the muffler off the saw and looked at the face of the piston through the exhaust port? And the piston still looks like brand new with visible tooling marks? My next guess would be something astray in either side of the crank externally- either a recoil starter mishap inside the...

Sounds like the saw is flooded and the crankcase is full of fuel. What I would do is pull the spark plug, turn the saw upside down so any fuel can run out of the spark plug hole and while inverted- pull the starter rope to rotate the engine. Excess fuel inside the machine should spill out of the...

Hello and welcome. Not to burst any bubbles- Jobu was a Norwegian company until the early 1980's when it was swallowed up by Electrolux- as many saw manufacturers were and true Jobu saws ceased to exist. What you have there is a made in Canada Frontier manufactured saw that was labelled for MANY...

True, you can do a lot with one- sometimes you shouldn't but you can. ;) It also depends on your choice of top handle- can do a whole lot more with a 201T or 200T than you can with a Joncutter.

Only P series saw I ever owned was a P42 I got very cheap, dressed up a bit and sold for a handsome profit. Not too familiar with the smaller P28, but it should use the small Husqvarna mount K095 bar mount and .325 gauge chain. You have the original still, compare the two by laying the bar...