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Welcome aboard. You should be able to post some good threads as you go through your saws and repair them one by one.

Then get a really good quality chain and keep it razor sharp at 10 degrees on the top plate.

For my money, an R420 is a little small for a 24" bar and milling- but I do not live in Finland- guessing you are mainly cutting slow growth fairly small diameter softwoods? If that is the case the old 65cc saw might do the job? Parts are a bit hard to come by though.

Not sure what it is like over there, but here- I can buy divided plastic containers with various length hex drive cap screws in several diameters from 3mm to 5mm and buy them cheaply online. Perhaps somewhere like Amazon provides such an option over there? 500 piece packs are quite handy for...

With the consumer saws- often it is easier to use what you can find. Hardware store fixings- but they need to be metric. You will not have the luxury of stepped shanks so the fixing remains in the top cover- but they will hold the covers in place. May not be Husqvarna black, might be zinc...

Over the past couple of weeks there had been some "issues" regarding access to the site- not sure if it was for all, but certainly was for myself. There were some problems regarding a digital something or other that were way above my pay grade and Admin managed to sort- or believed they had...

Which peel is that?

Loose coil, business card for an air gap feeler gauge, hand rotate flywheel till magnets grab coil- tighten mounting bolts to coil, rotate flywheel to remove business card- done.

I seem to remember there were some issues surrounding limited coils or coils that gave an easier starting mode and then transitioned to normal running after initial start- I do not think this is what is happening with yours. Google search Husqvarna 450 Rancher coil problems- might give you some...

As a elimination test bed- the cheapest that fits from Amazon or somewhere? Will allow you to test for continual running and easy restarting once saw is warm. But may not last well in the long run. But doesnt cost much if it is not your coil giving problems? I am fairly convinced it is a coil...

Another reason to suspect the coil, it is cooled by air circulation from the flywheel, if its air gaps from the case are packed full of insulating debris- heat cannot get out and cool air cannot get in. Cooks the internals of the coil.

You could try running it with the top cover off until it quits and immediately do a spark test with either an inline tester or grounded plug- but the plug will be hot to handle. If you have no spark, odds are the coil is damaged- or some part of the ignition system is causing a short to ground...

Not fairly and squarely- as the internals of the coil heat up, some of the messages needed fail to get to where they are needed within the saws ignition system- kind of like saw dementia. Think of the coil being your saws brain. Was there a lot of oily grime packed around the coil before you...

Lots of things can cause excessive heat retention and build up- from dull chains pushed hard, to oil and sawdust puree packed throughout the saws externals- so air cooling is not cooling. Sounds like you coil is cooked or in the process of being cooked. Starts and runs until heat builds up in...

Oh great- so it has been given the Asian upgrade? If it is running an aftermarket crank or main bearings- willing to bet there is your problem. If they are hex, if they are metric- you can try smacking in the next size up in imperial driver into the rounded out hole in an attempt to remove it...

Perhaps the easiest way to find parts is to try and find a saw someone has straight fuelled, or ruined in some other way as to make it somewhat worthless- cheap for you to buy, but has the part/parts you require. I know saw shops here are full of consumer grade uneconomical repair saw wrecks-...

Clean the saw completely free of oil residue and fill the oil tank- sit it on a sheet of clean cardboard and pin point where the leak first appears- you have to know where it is leaking from in order to attempt to fix it. Could be a clogged or faulty tank went and use forms a vacuum and oil...

Being Stihl and 038- it should not have hex drive cap screws holding down the cylinder- it should have Torx bolts requiring a T27 driver- if you are using a hex, that is why perhaps it is rounded off? If it doesnt come out with a T27 driver after using all means deemed necessary to remove any...

If you have had the flywheel off and crank rotation shows the same problem- then yes work on the power take off side. Remove the E clip, washers, drive sprockets, clutch bell- could be the clutch needle bearing, the oil pump. Could also be internal- bits that have been smashed by crank lobe...

Pretty simple engine- everything rotates around the one axis of the crank- so you start eliminating components. Personally I would start at the flywheel, remove it and see if there is not a bolt worked out of somewhere and is now residing behind the flywheel and jamming between wheel and...