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Every possiblitity this one can run again with a couple of parts. But this one arrived today and was $10 cheaper. Was taken to a Stihl dealer about 200km up the road from me, they did a pressure test- called "leaking oil seals" and quoted $450 to repair. Owner said no to that and bought a...

The Husqvarna 350's suffer from three main problems. 1: Plastic manifold clip breaking 2: Loose engine pan to cylinder riser bolts 3: Muffler coming loose and burning top of oil tank. This saw suffered all three!

Ah, then my guess is you may have ben duped. I would be pulling the clutch apart first and checking that plus any play in the crankshaft- then I would be stripping everything I could off that bolts on to inspect the cases- including removing the gas tank.

Has the saw always been like this since you have owned it? Has it been dropped at any stage from a generous height? Has it been bar pinched in the cut and had a tumble? Has it been run over or a log rolled on it? Because the only way the "weight" of a clamped bar is causing the symptoms you...

Outside possibility- if the AV is that flogged out, the saw can be moving excessively between tank and crankcases- if there is a bare wire in the mix somewhere, it could be earthing out with the additional weight of the bar and chain. More likely perhaps is a failed bearing on the PTO (clutch)...

If the bar nuts are tight- the bar does not move- so the bar really has no bearing on the function of the engine. It is the correct type of bar, My best guess is something is binding within the PTO side of the saw- clutch, needle bearing area. You should NOT be able to "relieve" weight off the...

Um, no. Something is wrong. Does your bar have two adjuster holes per top and bottom of the bar slot? Is it missing one of the bar studs? Does it start with the bar and chain on if the chain brake is off? Need to take the cover off, take photos of the bar tail mount and the mount position on...

Some weeks back, I agreed to buy and paid for a sight unseen saw for the princely sum of $10 of our dollars- that equates out to USD$5:92 or similar. Yesterday I had the chance to collect it. Was advertised as....... It’s all there Team, did work with good compression. New carbie there also...

Oh okay- chainsaw rings are like that- they have a small gap and locator pin in the piston- note the scallop in each end to accommodate the locating pin? They need to be split there to allow for thermal expansion as the rings heat up and get bigger as the engine runs and warms up. You can and...

Vertical lines and marks on the piston usually are NOT good- see the other post on here about the "saw starts right up but then cuts out" compare the photographs on there with your own piston. Investing money in a bar and chain for a saw that is about to die is false economy.

Ring is cracked? Where? I must have missed that. What you show is pretty normal for the early to mid stages of a lean burn out of the top end. Like I have said previously, might be from an air leak, a very lean state of tune or straight gas. For this model saw- unfortunately, you might be...

your choice- is it worth your time and any cost of parts to have a box store consumer grade saw? But, if you are going to pull it apart- take video or photographs as you go so you have a reference to put it back together correctly. Get some snap lock plastic bags to put parts in and a vivid...

Excellent- but no video? :( I do not know what you "need" nor do you until you dig in there- BUT what it does is confirm the saw has low compression and needs something done to correct that. So you have to pull the cylinder- might be just a new ring is needed and clean up the piston, or it...

Nope, it needs fuel to run.

Yep- a LOT of people do NOT like Bosch- or Champion in small 2 strokes! :ROFLMAO: But I took this out of a "new to me" saw the other day

Get someone to video it if you do give it a try- if a teaspoon of oil doesnt do it- try two! Eventually the oil will form a hydrolock and near tear the starter handle through your fingers- you need to drain some out then...... :ROFLMAO:

IF it starts it proves somewhat that compression is low (the oil provides temporary coating and "thickness" to the cylinder walls- taking up the missing slack) and low compression is bad- well bad to the point of needing at least a new set of rings minimum and the cylinder needs removed to...

It could be carbon build up in the exhaust port, heavy carbon deposits right at the interface where cylinder becomes port- build up of peaks there can score the piston- usually nick the ring grooves and trap the rings after a while. Near as bad as a lean running saw, usually caused by low grade...

The 365 has been around a long time in various forms. The XT was the last of the family and a fine mid range (well what I call mid range- might be big for others) firewood getting saw- well suited to the 20-24" bar range for softwood the soft/hardwoods and maybe 16-20" for true hardwoods. The...

Excellent photos- would have been better to have a second, one showing the top of the piston and rings in the grooves- but nice all the same. For my money, thats damage- the vertical streaks look to be transfer of the heated piston to the cylinder walls, but certainly not the worst I have seen...