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Show us a photo of the square ground LP chain you bought and we shall decide if it can be profiled round.

If the 8" chain is 0.043 gauge- the 10" bar only has to be 3/8LP in pitch- pitch MUST remain the same- gauge of the chain must only be the same as the bar it is fitted to. So if you bought the 10" bar as a set with its own chain- you can assume the two are compatible and will work on your...

I would be very hesitant to recommend anyone pick up one of what is the Worlds most expensive chainsaw files and be able to use it to square file Low Profile chain straight off the get go. Very much doubt the chain in question is square filed/ground- it will just be a factory grind with little...

Looks like the top plates of the cutters are still pretty dull- maybe filing too deep into the gullet- sharp gullet but missing the top plate which strikes first. Hand filing is one of those things that takes time to develop the skill and you can only really learn from doing. The cutters on...

You find a wire, follow the wire and start digging! Eventually you find a coil. :p

Ever wonder why some saws do not spark well, ignitions fail, coils need replaced? This is a major contributor I see often.

Is it a sprocket drive or spur drive? Unusual for a 170 to run a sprocket. Did you replace the clutch with a Stihl clutch or an aftermarket cheapie? Is there a needle bearing between crankcase and clutch bell? My best guess off supplied information is a mismatch of parts and the crank is not...

Basically- NO. Wont work because the cylinder footprints are different- the 262 is the biggest you can go on that crankcase and it was born from the 154 origin. The 268 is based on a different crankcase in the 162 origin. And aftermarket big bore kits- forget them! If the top end is not good...

Another possible problem is timing. If the flywheel is misaligned due to a munched key or sheared/missing key- the plug will spark outside the cylinder when earthed- but will be out of time when refitted and not firing near TDC, so the saw will not run.

The oil give a temporary yet effective test of compression- or rather lack thereof. The oil gives enough of a temporary coating to the cylinder to piston clearance to initially start the fuel/air charge being introduced from the carb via the transfers. If having done so and the saw starts, runs...

There is no MS021, so either you have an 021 with screw on fuel/oil caps, or an MS 210 with flippy caps. 90psi is not going to run nothing in the small engine 2 stroke game- 120 is about bare minimum, but it all depends on how true the gauge reading is- if using a standard automotive gauge it...

Nope- I do not live in the States or have much of an idea of what is available over there. But the Echo tester is designed for small engines if you can find someone willing to sell you one. I have heard of a specific tube for the Snapon gauge with the white collar valve installed at the cylinder...

For saws you need a compression tester designed for small volume engines- they have a different less resistant valve in the stem from normal automotive ones.

Okay, sounds a wee bit like it might be flooding rather than starving for fuel and there may be something wrong with the carb internals- I do not have the E fuel problems where I live and not the best to guess at what happens to the internals of carbs from running it. But as a rule Echo's are...

Spitting gas where? Out the throat of the carb, past the choke butterfly and into the air box when the filter is removed? The saw starts and idles normally? Dies when throttle is applied? Starts briefly and dies fairly quickly?

You are speaking way to modern for me- I do not own a single autotune or mtronic type of saw. But, the whole idea of these new modern saws is there is a module that controls the tuning- so Im guessing module is matched to carb and if you replace the carb the module needs to be "told" you have...

Like I said, its what I do- new saw or new rebuild- but I can also tune saws by ear and am confident doing so. I have no idea if your rebuilt saw had other issues regarding air leaks or bearing wear, if you used OEM parts or Chinese cheap outs- I can only tell you what I do, I cannot tell you to...

Myself, I tune them a tad rich on the H from ideal tune, run them like you stole it for 5 hours or so run time, tune to ideal and cut wood with it. Others might doo dad around with heat cycles and periods at idle and so such, but my method has never failed me yet in 40 odd years of use.

Easiest way to figure out the compression thing is to find a known to be good saw and test it with your tester- if it comes back with a similar low reading- you do not have a compression problem.

The ex- hire saw thing and likely being well used and abused before you got it opens a whole other can of worms and an air leak might be your problem.