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First up- chainsaws do not have blades- they have bars. Chains are ordered to fit a system- ie: they must match the drive sprocket of the saw and the specifications of the bar. You must know and match, pitch, gauge and drive link count. If still legible- all this information should be stamped...

No idea- but whatever ratio you decide (I like 40:1) the saw must be tuned for that ratio. Likely it was recommended 25:1 or 33:1 or similar with 30wt oil- modern 2 stroke oils are much better than the options of the 1970's.

Its a Roper- defined by the 917 prefix on the serial number. Exact model I am not sure- possibly you were looking at Poulan 25's as they look similar- but not the same. Search Roper 2.5 and see what you get?

See- told you I was not familiar with the type. Yes, if you are pretty sure the rest is in order- thinner oil may help. Personally I have half and halved bar oil and either diesel or kerosene to test/clean out systems.

Not a model of saw I am entirely familiar with, but I would be checking the alignment of drive gear off the crank to the worm drive of the pump- are they in good condition? If all seems well there I would be running diesel or diesel/oil mix through the system to see if a thin fluid pumps and...

My guess is- you for an oil line with a grommet suited to magnesium tank models and not the 170's plastic tank. A small O ring on the inside of the grommet may have taken up any slack and made it seal- or even a washer maybe.

Did you use a genuine Stihl part- or the cheapest oil pickup line you could find online?

Appears to run okay

Bought a bundle of five saws off marketplace last night, for $50 of ours (USD $28:57), in amongst the lot was an old 7-10 Automatic, well dusted up to the point I was guessing what it might be off the one photo I had- was guessing 10-10, but no, the big brother. Thats as advertised- and yes...

The 242XP was a bit of a hotrod saw in its day- but this has to be the craziest one I've seen yet! There has been some serious thought and planning processes gone through here- and a lot of fine machining.

Photos of the old saw would be nice to see. I cannot really put a value on it for you, what with being on the other side of the World and not having a crystal ball to gauge condition. Can put you in contact with some Mac fanatics over in the States though that might have a better value idea...

Latest saw to join the stable- was the very first chainsaw I ever ran- belonged to my Dad and is as old as me I believe- around 55 years and it still runs. Pretty sure the starter handle is the only non original part.

Okay, if you cannot slow the idle down to the point of where the chain stops rotating- by JUST using the idle screw not the L low circuit screw- something else is wrong, not the tuning. First place I would suspect is clutch and or clutch spring. If it is too weak to hold the clutch shoes away...

Picked up a bar on the cheap last week- old school Granberg double ender, guessing it is what they class as a 56 inch? Not sure how they are sold or measured- but it is 1425mm overall- so my maths makes it 56 inches overall, actual cut length with the helper handle on would be around 48 inches...

Well, it sounds like an air leak- probably main crank seals- or the crankcase pressure oil pump. If it ran and then leaned out- ie: started to climb in revs alarmingly- its sucking excess air from somewhere. This kind of condition will tear up a piston fairly quickly. One way of ruling out low...

So how do you leak test without air pressure or vacuum? There is always a reason old saws are shelved and then sold cheap- seldom do you find a free lunch.

Pressure and vacuum test the lines, the carb and the saw engine. New correct spark plug. My guess is, if all the ducks are in a row fuel delivery wise- you have a massive air leak at the crank seals or the like and saw is not building the impulse needed to deliver pulse to the carb.

Fuel is not getting from tank to carb then- new fuel lines and in tank filter.

Pretty common for the fuel lines to rot out on these they have a right angle nipple in the line at the back of the top handle. Blow back, will and can happen- usually you dont see anything because the filter and cover are on, but being hard on the pull after firing- the crankcase might be full...

These things came in about every colour of the rainbow and near every makers name- but they are all Frontier F35's at the end of the day. They impulse through the intake block- no separate line- so make sure the impulse channel is lined up with the holes in the gaskets and the channel is clear...