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All cleaned up, fixed up and ready to go.

Perhaps not the ideal video- as he uses steel faced hammers and the flywheel nut in place- if you do not hit square you can damage the threads of the crank- but skip to around the 8 minute mark and you will see what I mean.

While pulling the case halves together, the tight fit of shaft to bearing, or bearing to case has side loaded the bearings. In simple terms, one or more of the races of the bearings - either inner or outer has been pulled sideways so that the balls of the bearing are not centralised in the...

As long as they are still a press fit- they should hold. I have removed press fit and replaced them with screw in type after threading the holes. Being a home workshop and probably no bench mount arbour press- just tap them in with a hammer. Over here there are many wrecked 1## and 2##...

When you have not done them before- they can seem tricky or at least not aligned the way you think perhaps they should be. The flywheel should stay in place and not need to come off- the pawls can be hex head, socket hex head and press in type- the threaded one may require heat as they have...

Mud dabber wasp nests in muffler? Exhaust port choked with carbon? I mean you have near thrown a new saws worth of spare parts at it- problem not solved- it starts and runs at idle/low rpm and wont rev out are pretty indicative of no escape route for burnt gasses. However, if all the massed...

Carbon coked spark arrestor screen?

Easiest way to rule out the brake as the culprit is to remove the clutch cover that contains all the brake parts and the bar and chain- does the clutch drum move freely? Start the saw, does it rev up, clutch engage the clutch drum and then if off the revs does it return to idle? If it does the...

Found locally- and where I live there are only about 1100 in town, looks a bit rough, missing some bits- but the price was right. Have parts on order to make it all correct again. It is one of the pre m-tronic ones- came with no spark plug fitted- showed spark on a "bulb" elcheapo spark tester...

Seriously though- although I love to hate these little monsters....... Replace any wear/worn stuff while you are in there- like main crank oil seals and any fuel or air associated parts and if I were you I would replace the spur drive clutch drum, the one on it looks pretty chopped up.

Scoop it all into a bin bag while you can and quickly walk to your trash bin- open the bin lid and place the bag carefully inside- shut the lid and back away slowly- if it saw you- a Glock 19 is a good deterrent.

Yep- just a simple plastic lever you move to the desired spot- guess it facilitates changing on the fly? In the photo in question the lever is at the fullest + position- then you have the manual auxiliary as well- but the plunger is in an ass of a position to depress while using.

The sliding lever? Yes- it is the oil delivery adjustment from the pump to the bar pad.

It is in very good condition- has a near perfect exhaust cover as well- but being the fatter optional muffler it does not have the stand off studs and longer bolts- so was not fitted, just came with.

No past experience with that particular one- we are fairly limited as to what can be found here on the other side of the World.

Was you 026 a PRO model? If so, it had the WT-394 or 426 compensating carb. The "flat" cover carb you show is a WT-194 or copy there of. I believe the 194 can be made to run in a saw requiring the 394 carb with a simple cover swap and indeed is one way of getting past limiters on the...

I know little about these- but the bore should be 2.09 inches? Which converts out to 53.086mm- which in turn is pretty close to 54mm and that is where I would be heading for rings. Will need to end gap check the rings in the combustion region of the chamber and they may need end filed to get to...

Cleaned up a bit- fitted with a near new Duromatic 48 inch bar and .404 skip chain. Just a tad on the nose heavy side now- :p

Clutch, clutch drum (.404 spur drive) and kill switch were all borrowed off the 051 wreck, wiring for the switch came off an old 041 wreck. You cannot run one of these style saws without the clutch fitted- as the oil seal does NOT seal on the crankshaft, instead it bears on the worm drive gear...

Took a bit of a risk, bought an old Stihl 075 online- mainly because the price was right (under $50 USD) and it apparently ran. When it arrived- it had no clutch fitted, just the oil worm drive. Borrowed an old 051 clutch and drum off a wreck in the workshop and we have a winner. Still needs...