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First and foremost- you need to know what caused the lean condition that took out the piston (do not trash the cylinder just yet- it may be saveable)- if you do not correct that- you are throwing good money away as it will just eat the new top end the same. Once reassembled it really needs...

Went for a wee drive today, came home with four old saws. Homelite Super XL 923 or 925. Echo 60S that is running or rather fitted with its scrub bar attachment and circular blade- seller yet to find the bar and clutch cover. Stihl 012. Echo 280E.

Sellers of aftermarket parts do not really care or get too precise on your product descriptions- the filter fits 039/390- but they neglect to mention there are different types and different eras of 039's. Its the whole "we don't really care- we just want your money" type of thing. You can wash...

Well, it depends on which carb you have as to which filter you need- your original filter (which looks like it would wash up just fine) is for the carb with the flat top cover (HD-5) and your replacement filter is for the carb with the compensator top cover (HD-18 or 19). Where did the new...

Wow, should probably go out and buy yourself a State lottery ticket on the same trip.

Are they worth the time and effort? Not really- but if you want to fix in for a short time and before something else gives way- they are a Zenoah clone, so I guess genuine Zenoah parts fit - pretty much any similar looking cheap Chinese saw runs the same fuel lines. Online cheap Chinese based...

Because the exhaust fumes stink, unless perfectly tuned it leaves deposits/builds carbon, its 1980's FB rated oil when every other manufacturer recommends FD and its EXPENSIVE. Plus (not sure if available in the States?) their mid rated HP Super (red dyed) oil is FD rated and much cheaper.

Pick an oil, pick a number and tune the saw to that mix. It IS that simple. With modern semi or full synthetic oils, designed for air cooled (not water cooled or outboard engines) either 40 or 50:1 is fine. Personally, all I stay away from is Stihl Ultra.

Off the top of my head- dont recall anything like that on the recoil side of a 340-350, dont think there were any locating pins of anything like that. It is however quite possible, while in a garage or in a vehicle- something fell into one of the air vent slots of the recoil starter cover and...

Sounds like a plan (y) Ive not done one myself- so cannot advise.

Page 18- parts 15& 16 https://www.hlsproparts.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/IPL-120-MARK-II-96786190X.pdf Or maybe this is better? https://www.partstree.com/models/120-mark-ii-967861901-husqvarna-chainsaw-2018-05/fuel-tank-handle-8/

Well- no, just guessing here as I dont play around with these wee rascals much- there should be a breather of some type in the hole with a nipple on the tank side that duckbill mounts to. Will see if I can find drawings.

It is the duckbill for the tank vent. Without it, air and indeed fluids are able to exit the tank- this should not be the case- it is a one way valve to allow air in to replace the fuel going to the carb.

That is correct- they do screw into the piece you have indicated. Photos are of a 2159- but exact same- you should be able to see the last threads poking through just before the rubber manifold.

Where it says in my profile- down the bottom of the South Island of New Zealand. You could have left, done what you needed to do and left the saw there- saying I am not taking a faulty tool, but I will be back to sort this out.

No idea, your American systems work way different to here and I have never had an issue with any local Stihl dealer way over here. Perhaps a wee bit lucky to get away with "well the manual doesnt mention overheating" thats operator error to me- but not having the saw in hand I guess its whoever...

20 on the drive links is Oregon code for .325 pitch- the rest you know- but for my mind it does not add up well running .325 on a 235e and at 72DL's you are out at 18 inch bar- so way overkill on that saw- in my opinion. Might work well for you and how you use it- but not what I would be doing...

Personally, I very much doubt the crank shaft is worn- the needle bearing and clutch drum possibly- but not the crank. If the arm off the worm gear was broken previously, the notch it sits in could be damaged, worn needle bearing and drum bore will allow excess movement and the same will happen...

In my opinion- yes if the tester used was a small engine tester, 125 should be sufficient. HOWEVER there is a lot more con go wrong with these little plastic saws that cause them to be tossed- other than compression.

Would have been good to pressure and vacuum test before you tore it all down- just to be sure.