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Cheers, but no need- will be half a dozen here already to choose from.

Are you sure all the components are compatible? With the spark plug out- does it feel the same? I just got a "new" tank for a 480- so can pull one apart to see.

Heat cycles? Do people actually do that? I will put my hand up and say I never do/never have- build 'em up, tune them a wee tad rich for the first 5 hours or so and get out there cutting with them.

Pretty normal filth- not an area that gets opened out and cleaned terribly often.

Yes- if you had mentioned heated handles from the get go it might have speeded things up no end! We do not see a lot of heated handle saws here- does not really get cold enough. Well thats good news- if it now rotates freely- you will see above I mentioned something about clutch and flywheel...

The clutch nut is low profile and if you are using a standard socket or ring spanner to try and grab it- look at the inside of those- the bottom is chamfered- so you are only just getting the top of the nut- they need ground to remove the chamfer- use a quality scrench- or try an open end...

You still have the cylinder off the saw Im guessing? So you could very possibly damage things trying to wrench the clutch off without some kind of blocking under the piston and around the conrod- like the plastic block in the ring compressor sets.

Hang on a minute- thats a generator under the flywheel- is it an Arctic model 461? Rotate your crank mow with the clutch and see if the ugliness is still there. Did not realise it was an Arctic before- lots more magnets in a generator than just the outers passing the coil pick ups.

See the bronze bit? Get a magnifying glass and have a look at it- its porous and a bush not a bearing as such, you can pre soak them in oil to preload them before fitting.

Okay- do you have any comeback through the auction site? We do here if goods defective or not as advertised. If you cannot return to sender and get your money back- then we can walk you through all the repairs- heck if you want I will pull a Stihl apart and do each step with you- only I dont...

Do you still have the coil fitted in the video? If not then- Yeah na- thats not normal. I hope you did not pay too much for it on the original auction? Good saws and fully worth repairing for your own use, but if you paid high initially and it is going to cost plenty to repair- not really a...

Did the gear come with seal fitted? I usually grease the interior of the seal and oil the shaft before dropping them on.

It is a genuine Stihl part, or aftermarket? I believe it will work- have seen ones like your original and ones like your replacement- albeit on 051's which use the same pump and same parts. Put it this way- with the original parts you had in the saw- it did not pump oil- new parts differ...

Best let your Brother know he needs to order a new throttle cable. ;)

Or......

You got the shaft out of the pump body? I have the entire service manual for your saw- let me dig it out and I will take some photos for you........

1111 647 0601 1 Pump piston, 1111 640 7111 1 Worm Gear, 9642 003 1440 1 Oil seal 14x20x3.5 Last time U did one, parts were still available, but if you are going in there to repair or replace the pump with a good secondhand unit from an 051 075 076- then I would also replace the shaft O ring...

Build enough of them and you begin to recognise model from the part in hand.

The wide starter was for the 066- gets tricky when all the 1122 stuff interchanges- but then it doesn't! Pretty sure the starter on my one is off a much newer MS640.

No ID tag any more- but it was likely a saw that had the non adjustable carb on it- they did that for a while because guys were getting them, screwing them up for max rpm, eliminating the governor and burning the saws up- so taking away to option of fiddling and the problem was somewhat solved...