Search results

I can think of about 50 off hand- but there are probably reasons they are not covered by aftermarket already- demand is light and production orders would be low volume and so therefore uneconomic. There will be a small group of old time enthusiasts hanging out for say a Jonsered 930 Super top...

We do not have corn syrup fuel- so I'm guessing you should perhaps run your saw dry and drain the fuel before storage. Do not be surprised if the new top end makes less power than the original. The cheap versions run- but seldom do they run as well. Clean, keep the original cylinder and piston-...

Now, just before you get too carried away- do you know what and have you rectified what had taken out the original top end?

See, over here we think like the Germans and use metrics- so they are not hard to find or odd.

Personally- I do not know if it will work. I cannot say the thread on the self tappers is 7 x 1.5 and where do you find a tap? I have never tried to fit original bolts into anything but an original cylinder, have never used a cheap aftermarket cylinder on an 029/039. Would it not be easier to...

Your saw came from the factory with a non standard system- the cylinders are drilled- but not tapped- the fatter coarse thread screws you have are the original self tapper ones fitted into untreaded holes at the factory when the saw was assembled. Aftermarket cylinders come tapped for 6mm X 1.0...

The choke restricts (chokes) the saws airway- so either too much air is in the system- or not enough fuel at idle. So to compensate you have to choke some of the air out of the system to allow it to run. Try turning the idle screw in a tad and see if it helps. If not richen the L 1/8 to 1/4...

Compression so hi you could not pull the rope? Syphoning fuel hydro locking the cylinder? Or rings sticking to bore with sitting and lack of lubrication maybe- hard one to "guess". First thing I would do, is check the choke rod is still attached to the master control switch and the lever on...

By having to manipulate choke to enable the engine to run tells us you are restricting air that is normally required for the engine to run properly at wide open throttle- thus we can assume the engine is sucking air from somewhere it should not be. Loose engine pan- cracked fuel line- impulse-...

So you live on our Western Island then? Saw brands and types are pretty common between us. If you do not have a whole lot to do- hiring a saw that suits is a possibility. Same old same old with tools- you generally get what you pay for- if its cheap, it usually is not as good as something...

Buying plastic consumer grade saws second hand always comes with risk- they are often "damaged" and an uneconomic repair- part of the throw away modern era. Your idle screw is not a jet adjusting screw- it does NOT have a base setting of lightly seated and out one turn. The idle screw simply...

Can you take a photo of the offending screw? Does it have limiters fitted? If it does- not sure how you got it all the way out- but might explain why it will only thread back in a short distance before stopping.

IF indeed, all the engine, intake tract and fuel delivery check out- via pressure/vacuum testing and such- is the muffler full of insect nests and or complete void filling of all the mesh in the spark arrestor screen blocked with carbon?

So you say oil temporary compression boost does not work, everything else is perfect and yet the saw still wont run? Sounds like you are flooding it then- but let me guess- you have checked that and it is not flooding. Pretty simple engines, correct ratios of fuel and air, compression, spark...

Oh okay- well if you are experienced- the answer should be as plain as the nose on your face then. One way to bump the compression is to remove the plug, pour a teaspoon or so of oil down the plug hole, swill it about a bit, replace the plyg and start the saw. Also wondering if you are willing...

If you test another small engine with the same tester- what kind of a reading does the gauge give? Like a known well running saw? Engines from China= dubious at best quality- I mean they don't cost much eh? So you dont expect much. But as you say- they come fully assembled and drop into the...

Borrowed this off the 240 thread- but it may very well apply to your saw also. When I was removing the muffler to inspect the piston I noticed how dirty the spark arrestor was. Checking it again before reassembly decided to take wire brush to the screen which was nearly solid with carbon...

Yes= I totally agree- and something I often forget in the list of obvious go to's . A carbon plugged spark arrestor screen or muffler full of insect nest will stop a saw starting. Often caused by a heavy oil fuel mix and or rich tuning. The top of the piston and exhaust port can become clogged...

Depending on the tester used- 110 might be more like 150- or it might be 110. Easiest Bubba sneak around is to remove the spark plug, tip say a teaspoon of oil on top of the piston- swill it around a bit and try to start the saw with the plug back in. The oil gives a temporary and false...

Yes- Series 3, 1976 109 inch, 2 1/4 ltr 4 cylinder petrol.