Search results

The 242XP was a bit of a hotrod saw in its day- but this has to be the craziest one I've seen yet! There has been some serious thought and planning processes gone through here- and a lot of fine machining.

Photos of the old saw would be nice to see. I cannot really put a value on it for you, what with being on the other side of the World and not having a crystal ball to gauge condition. Can put you in contact with some Mac fanatics over in the States though that might have a better value idea...

Latest saw to join the stable- was the very first chainsaw I ever ran- belonged to my Dad and is as old as me I believe- around 55 years and it still runs. Pretty sure the starter handle is the only non original part.

Okay, if you cannot slow the idle down to the point of where the chain stops rotating- by JUST using the idle screw not the L low circuit screw- something else is wrong, not the tuning. First place I would suspect is clutch and or clutch spring. If it is too weak to hold the clutch shoes away...

Picked up a bar on the cheap last week- old school Granberg double ender, guessing it is what they class as a 56 inch? Not sure how they are sold or measured- but it is 1425mm overall- so my maths makes it 56 inches overall, actual cut length with the helper handle on would be around 48 inches...

Well, it sounds like an air leak- probably main crank seals- or the crankcase pressure oil pump. If it ran and then leaned out- ie: started to climb in revs alarmingly- its sucking excess air from somewhere. This kind of condition will tear up a piston fairly quickly. One way of ruling out low...

So how do you leak test without air pressure or vacuum? There is always a reason old saws are shelved and then sold cheap- seldom do you find a free lunch.

Pressure and vacuum test the lines, the carb and the saw engine. New correct spark plug. My guess is, if all the ducks are in a row fuel delivery wise- you have a massive air leak at the crank seals or the like and saw is not building the impulse needed to deliver pulse to the carb.

Fuel is not getting from tank to carb then- new fuel lines and in tank filter.

Pretty common for the fuel lines to rot out on these they have a right angle nipple in the line at the back of the top handle. Blow back, will and can happen- usually you dont see anything because the filter and cover are on, but being hard on the pull after firing- the crankcase might be full...

These things came in about every colour of the rainbow and near every makers name- but they are all Frontier F35's at the end of the day. They impulse through the intake block- no separate line- so make sure the impulse channel is lined up with the holes in the gaskets and the channel is clear...

All cleaned up, fixed up and ready to go.

Perhaps not the ideal video- as he uses steel faced hammers and the flywheel nut in place- if you do not hit square you can damage the threads of the crank- but skip to around the 8 minute mark and you will see what I mean.

While pulling the case halves together, the tight fit of shaft to bearing, or bearing to case has side loaded the bearings. In simple terms, one or more of the races of the bearings - either inner or outer has been pulled sideways so that the balls of the bearing are not centralised in the...

As long as they are still a press fit- they should hold. I have removed press fit and replaced them with screw in type after threading the holes. Being a home workshop and probably no bench mount arbour press- just tap them in with a hammer. Over here there are many wrecked 1## and 2##...

When you have not done them before- they can seem tricky or at least not aligned the way you think perhaps they should be. The flywheel should stay in place and not need to come off- the pawls can be hex head, socket hex head and press in type- the threaded one may require heat as they have...

Mud dabber wasp nests in muffler? Exhaust port choked with carbon? I mean you have near thrown a new saws worth of spare parts at it- problem not solved- it starts and runs at idle/low rpm and wont rev out are pretty indicative of no escape route for burnt gasses. However, if all the massed...

Carbon coked spark arrestor screen?

Easiest way to rule out the brake as the culprit is to remove the clutch cover that contains all the brake parts and the bar and chain- does the clutch drum move freely? Start the saw, does it rev up, clutch engage the clutch drum and then if off the revs does it return to idle? If it does the...

Found locally- and where I live there are only about 1100 in town, looks a bit rough, missing some bits- but the price was right. Have parts on order to make it all correct again. It is one of the pre m-tronic ones- came with no spark plug fitted- showed spark on a "bulb" elcheapo spark tester...