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How are you earthing the plug to see visual spark?- Hard to rig up on a plastic saw without an added earth wire to a good earth point on the cylinder. Throw any plug with L7T in the bin- they are as a rule rubbish. Best to use an inline spark tester on plastic saws- more guaranteed earth with...

Sounds interesting- basically replaced the entire saw with cheap parts and it still don't go- guess you have to check what is left. Kill switch wire earthing out somewhere? Its pretty simple, air and fuel mix in the combustion chamber- compression- spark and timing of that spark. What "new"...

You are going to bolt a 42 inch bar onto a 372 and expect great results? I guess you have to sort it out and get it running first- but still- a 42 is going in a bit over barred and under gunned.

So you noticed rotational resistance before the crank was reinstalled in the cases- but installed them anyhow and the resistance is still there? I would suggest something went wrong during installation and that side bearing is misaligned within itself. The back end of a hatchet is possibly the...

Cant really see a whole lot in that photo= but it looks like nothing has been on top of the piston and smashing into the squish band as often happens if something metal makes it through the transfers and ends up on top of the piston. Edges of the port shown in the photos look pretty rough though.

I wouldnt think so- but then I wasnt there to watch you put them on the crank. Im still picking side loading on the bearings is your issue. After installing the bearings and crank in the case halves and screwing them up- you will have pulled side load onto the bearings- it can be corrected by...

Are we talking a genuine Husqvarna 372XP or an Asian knock off?

Two totally different tests- compression test will not show you an air leak- pressure and vac test will not give you a compression reading- neither is a substitute for the other. Simply remove the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port will tell you a whole lot more.

Start removing stuff and testing rotation until it comes good after removing something. If you have everything removed and the resistance is still there- I would suggest severe side loading on the main bearings- if indeed the big end bearing is still 100% fine. Were the main bearings toast so...

Not common, but can happen.

It certainly can if the bearings were plastic caged ones. I fail to see why the bearing required heat from a propane torch anyhow? Ideally you heat the bearing pocket in the case and drop the bearing in, sometimes you might even put the bearing in a freezer for a while first. The idea is to use...

I guess because most 4 stroke engines have lumps of cast steel for crankcases and are designed to be bolted to something with wheels and not carried by hand?

Got to love to hate wee Electrolux strato saws. Sounds like it is struggling for fuel on the H circuit- why? Well could be lots of things. Online carbs are a crap shoot- might get one that works, better odds you get one that doesnt. I would be sticking with the original carb, properly cleaned...

Well, it kind of depends- make and model of saw and the use it sees between rebuilds. My rule of thumb- once a saw has done two sets of main crank bearings- it is usually due for the bin. But a lot can depend on how it was used and treated in the meanwhile, milling can be hard and hot if the...

If its new, Pro grade- it is good- regardless of who makes it. Stihl MS 261 is a fine saw and a good step up from the current two- but to run a 20 inch bar is top of its range- personally I might be looking at an MS 400.

BUT you did clean all of the transfer off of the inside of the cylinder before slapping a new piston and rings in? Heated handles should not interfere with idle- one is powered by a volatile explosion of fuel/air under compression and the other by a generator under the flywheel- however, if you...

So something is incorrect in fitment, or alignment within the starter side of the saw and is catching/binding during operation. Starter pawls would be the first guess- the bits that engage the pulley. Photos of the internals may help detail the fault.

When you replaced the spring and pulley- was everything correctly aligned? Did you tension the spring before simply winding on the string? If you remove the starter cover off of the saw, does the starter act normally? As in full rope extension and retraction.

Im no expert- but its a 10 series- which one I do not know. They made these for the 1960's to the 1990's with a LOT of variations between them, but basically the same saw.

Would have been a good wee saw to have back in the day when we were allowed to prune commercial Pine plantations with a chainsaw.:p