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So you live on our Western Island then? Saw brands and types are pretty common between us. If you do not have a whole lot to do- hiring a saw that suits is a possibility. Same old same old with tools- you generally get what you pay for- if its cheap, it usually is not as good as something...

Buying plastic consumer grade saws second hand always comes with risk- they are often "damaged" and an uneconomic repair- part of the throw away modern era. Your idle screw is not a jet adjusting screw- it does NOT have a base setting of lightly seated and out one turn. The idle screw simply...

Can you take a photo of the offending screw? Does it have limiters fitted? If it does- not sure how you got it all the way out- but might explain why it will only thread back in a short distance before stopping.

IF indeed, all the engine, intake tract and fuel delivery check out- via pressure/vacuum testing and such- is the muffler full of insect nests and or complete void filling of all the mesh in the spark arrestor screen blocked with carbon?

So you say oil temporary compression boost does not work, everything else is perfect and yet the saw still wont run? Sounds like you are flooding it then- but let me guess- you have checked that and it is not flooding. Pretty simple engines, correct ratios of fuel and air, compression, spark...

Oh okay- well if you are experienced- the answer should be as plain as the nose on your face then. One way to bump the compression is to remove the plug, pour a teaspoon or so of oil down the plug hole, swill it about a bit, replace the plyg and start the saw. Also wondering if you are willing...

If you test another small engine with the same tester- what kind of a reading does the gauge give? Like a known well running saw? Engines from China= dubious at best quality- I mean they don't cost much eh? So you dont expect much. But as you say- they come fully assembled and drop into the...

Borrowed this off the 240 thread- but it may very well apply to your saw also. When I was removing the muffler to inspect the piston I noticed how dirty the spark arrestor was. Checking it again before reassembly decided to take wire brush to the screen which was nearly solid with carbon...

Yes= I totally agree- and something I often forget in the list of obvious go to's . A carbon plugged spark arrestor screen or muffler full of insect nest will stop a saw starting. Often caused by a heavy oil fuel mix and or rich tuning. The top of the piston and exhaust port can become clogged...

Depending on the tester used- 110 might be more like 150- or it might be 110. Easiest Bubba sneak around is to remove the spark plug, tip say a teaspoon of oil on top of the piston- swill it around a bit and try to start the saw with the plug back in. The oil gives a temporary and false...

Yes- Series 3, 1976 109 inch, 2 1/4 ltr 4 cylinder petrol.

Compression needs to be around 120 psi- have seen saws run at 90- but not very often. However, you cannot use a standard automotive tester and expect a true result- often the valves in the lines are too stiff to allow a true reading- ideally you need a tester designed for small single cylinder...

Oh well everything is fine then. So unless you are flooding the saw with your start up procedure- pressure and vac testing for air leaks of the massive variety is your next step. All you need is the correct air/fuel mix entering the combustion chamber- spark and timing of that spark to make...

Righto- remove the muffler and lets see the piston through the exhaust port.

The purge valve is not so much priming to a pressure- as it is purging the carb of air by replacing it with fuel. Incorrect assembly or connection of lines to and from the purge valve will suck air back in- rather than fuel. Lack of compression, massive air leaks will stop a saw firing up if...

Compression would be the next guess- or rather lack thereof.

Timing- flywheel key shorn.

Dont own a knock off one- but on genuine 038's that bit sits on top of the bar adjuster bolt and under the plate that covers the bar mount area.

If you have been pulling like a schoolboy trying to start it and the saw is getting fuel to the combustion chamber- it should near be running raw fuel out the muffler and flooding to hell and back. Pulling the muffler is an odd way to tell if fuel is getting in- starting with a dry plug- few...

The threaded section/crush washer area must be grounded to the cylinder or something attached to the cylinder- as if it was screwed in place and contacting the cylinder when the saw is complete. Easier done with the top engine cover removed- if you can, wrap a bare wire between plug hex and...