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Seriously though- although I love to hate these little monsters....... Replace any wear/worn stuff while you are in there- like main crank oil seals and any fuel or air associated parts and if I were you I would replace the spur drive clutch drum, the one on it looks pretty chopped up.

Scoop it all into a bin bag while you can and quickly walk to your trash bin- open the bin lid and place the bag carefully inside- shut the lid and back away slowly- if it saw you- a Glock 19 is a good deterrent.

Yep- just a simple plastic lever you move to the desired spot- guess it facilitates changing on the fly? In the photo in question the lever is at the fullest + position- then you have the manual auxiliary as well- but the plunger is in an ass of a position to depress while using.

The sliding lever? Yes- it is the oil delivery adjustment from the pump to the bar pad.

It is in very good condition- has a near perfect exhaust cover as well- but being the fatter optional muffler it does not have the stand off studs and longer bolts- so was not fitted, just came with.

No past experience with that particular one- we are fairly limited as to what can be found here on the other side of the World.

Was you 026 a PRO model? If so, it had the WT-394 or 426 compensating carb. The "flat" cover carb you show is a WT-194 or copy there of. I believe the 194 can be made to run in a saw requiring the 394 carb with a simple cover swap and indeed is one way of getting past limiters on the...

I know little about these- but the bore should be 2.09 inches? Which converts out to 53.086mm- which in turn is pretty close to 54mm and that is where I would be heading for rings. Will need to end gap check the rings in the combustion region of the chamber and they may need end filed to get to...

Cleaned up a bit- fitted with a near new Duromatic 48 inch bar and .404 skip chain. Just a tad on the nose heavy side now- :p

Clutch, clutch drum (.404 spur drive) and kill switch were all borrowed off the 051 wreck, wiring for the switch came off an old 041 wreck. You cannot run one of these style saws without the clutch fitted- as the oil seal does NOT seal on the crankshaft, instead it bears on the worm drive gear...

Took a bit of a risk, bought an old Stihl 075 online- mainly because the price was right (under $50 USD) and it apparently ran. When it arrived- it had no clutch fitted, just the oil worm drive. Borrowed an old 051 clutch and drum off a wreck in the workshop and we have a winner. Still needs...

I can think of about 50 off hand- but there are probably reasons they are not covered by aftermarket already- demand is light and production orders would be low volume and so therefore uneconomic. There will be a small group of old time enthusiasts hanging out for say a Jonsered 930 Super top...

We do not have corn syrup fuel- so I'm guessing you should perhaps run your saw dry and drain the fuel before storage. Do not be surprised if the new top end makes less power than the original. The cheap versions run- but seldom do they run as well. Clean, keep the original cylinder and piston-...

Now, just before you get too carried away- do you know what and have you rectified what had taken out the original top end?

See, over here we think like the Germans and use metrics- so they are not hard to find or odd.

Personally- I do not know if it will work. I cannot say the thread on the self tappers is 7 x 1.5 and where do you find a tap? I have never tried to fit original bolts into anything but an original cylinder, have never used a cheap aftermarket cylinder on an 029/039. Would it not be easier to...

Your saw came from the factory with a non standard system- the cylinders are drilled- but not tapped- the fatter coarse thread screws you have are the original self tapper ones fitted into untreaded holes at the factory when the saw was assembled. Aftermarket cylinders come tapped for 6mm X 1.0...

The choke restricts (chokes) the saws airway- so either too much air is in the system- or not enough fuel at idle. So to compensate you have to choke some of the air out of the system to allow it to run. Try turning the idle screw in a tad and see if it helps. If not richen the L 1/8 to 1/4...

Compression so hi you could not pull the rope? Syphoning fuel hydro locking the cylinder? Or rings sticking to bore with sitting and lack of lubrication maybe- hard one to "guess". First thing I would do, is check the choke rod is still attached to the master control switch and the lever on...

By having to manipulate choke to enable the engine to run tells us you are restricting air that is normally required for the engine to run properly at wide open throttle- thus we can assume the engine is sucking air from somewhere it should not be. Loose engine pan- cracked fuel line- impulse-...