Search results

Or perhaps, lack of use and sitting for a long while they were not exactly freed up on the pivot points and did not inertia out of the way with the saw running.

???? Explain too tight? You mean the pawls were were not free on their studs? Fixed too tight to the flywheel and were not returning to station?

Not 100% sure, but possibly the same as P80- R35- other R435's. There will be parts out there, just have to find them. Might be best to figure out why it happened and correct any resistance to the starter working. Pawls do not "snap" for no reason. Its an old saw and odds are way overdue a full...

A fellow chainsaw enthusiast from up top of our other Island, sent me this the other day. He rescued it from a recycling centre! 2055 was a hotrod of its day (1994), replaced another hotrod in the 2051, which had a red light timing system similar to the 066 Stihls- turns roughly 14.500rpm. 2054...

Sounds like somehow you managed (whilst cleaning) to misalign the fast idle feature and once choke was engaged to activate the fast idle for cold starting- it was unable to return once trigger applied and choke released. Good you figured it out.

Not familiar with the saw type- but if it has a chain brake fitted- is that engaged? Failing that, wear/damage to the drive sprocket or bar nose sprocket can stop the chain rotating- or if the drive sprocket has damaged the drive links of the can they can become jammed in the bar rails.

I would disconnect the throttle rod and see if the spring enables full travel without the rod attached- if it is still sticky- either the spring has jumped- or the throttle plate is catching internally. To verify if the plate was catching, I would remove the carb and check operation off of the saw.

Sounds like the return spring has broken- or the captured end of the spring has jumped out of position. Has the carb been off lately, or any repairs/cleaning been done recently?

Picked this up a couple of weeks back, just so happened my better half was in the right part of the Country to collect and return to a new forever home. Danarm- so British, made in Stroud Gloucestershire. 71cc = 2"X 1 3/8". From around 1973/74 (1974 on the original instruction book that came...

I would have to go check to be sure- but a lot of major parts like starter cover, top engine cover are date stamped. Have a look on the inside of such parts and see if you can find a circle with an arrow inside it- might need a magnifying glass or glasses to read it- but usually they contain a...

I am not aware of all the facts- but I can tell you no way in hell a 162SE was made in 2016. Now the fun bit- Silver tags- as far as I know, cannot be deciphered like the later black ID tags and the year, month and number off the line were used. However, if you read your tags in layman's terms-...

First and foremost- you need to know what caused the lean condition that took out the piston (do not trash the cylinder just yet- it may be saveable)- if you do not correct that- you are throwing good money away as it will just eat the new top end the same. Once reassembled it really needs...

Went for a wee drive today, came home with four old saws. Homelite Super XL 923 or 925. Echo 60S that is running or rather fitted with its scrub bar attachment and circular blade- seller yet to find the bar and clutch cover. Stihl 012. Echo 280E.

Sellers of aftermarket parts do not really care or get too precise on your product descriptions- the filter fits 039/390- but they neglect to mention there are different types and different eras of 039's. Its the whole "we don't really care- we just want your money" type of thing. You can wash...

Well, it depends on which carb you have as to which filter you need- your original filter (which looks like it would wash up just fine) is for the carb with the flat top cover (HD-5) and your replacement filter is for the carb with the compensator top cover (HD-18 or 19). Where did the new...

Wow, should probably go out and buy yourself a State lottery ticket on the same trip.

Are they worth the time and effort? Not really- but if you want to fix in for a short time and before something else gives way- they are a Zenoah clone, so I guess genuine Zenoah parts fit - pretty much any similar looking cheap Chinese saw runs the same fuel lines. Online cheap Chinese based...

Because the exhaust fumes stink, unless perfectly tuned it leaves deposits/builds carbon, its 1980's FB rated oil when every other manufacturer recommends FD and its EXPENSIVE. Plus (not sure if available in the States?) their mid rated HP Super (red dyed) oil is FD rated and much cheaper.

Pick an oil, pick a number and tune the saw to that mix. It IS that simple. With modern semi or full synthetic oils, designed for air cooled (not water cooled or outboard engines) either 40 or 50:1 is fine. Personally, all I stay away from is Stihl Ultra.

Off the top of my head- dont recall anything like that on the recoil side of a 340-350, dont think there were any locating pins of anything like that. It is however quite possible, while in a garage or in a vehicle- something fell into one of the air vent slots of the recoil starter cover and...