The 026 was kicking. It was really interesting to me. I'm about to port one.Just uploading today's video fully burried 32 inch bar on the 038, share it when it's done
Ported 038 mag with 8 pin rim, 24 inch bar
Ported 026 This one will either make you laugh, shake your head or surprise you... had lots of nay sayers and haters until seeing this video, and i can't seem to say this enough it is not its full time life with this bar and was for entertainment purposes only
Same ported 038 as above 038 with a 32 inch full comp
It was that 32 was purely forThe 026 was kicking. It was really interesting to me. I'm about to port one.
I'll probably run a 20" on mine for a limbing saw.It was that 32 was purely for
Entertainment purposes with low expectations it would have pulled it, and do not recommend it for a few reasons which all lead to failures from engine or clutch or both lack of oil for the bar also. I ran a 18 with 325 on it last night in 20 inch wet cotton wood just cut last weekend since i was testing buddies 028 after a muffler mod figure bar uo the 026 and compare nearly stock vs ported and that was a riot
I'll have to admit you got my rusty gears to turning.
I'll have to admit you got my rusty gears to turning.
I'm new to porting, but not shy to push the limits.
Farmertec kit, MMWS Cross cylinder, I think Moparmyway did the machine work on the cylinder, I tweaked the ports a little. 32" bar
View attachment 564
Understood.One of the reasons I don't post a lot of this stuff is because I hate the thoughts of leading people down a rabbit hole. These type of ports are absolutely not needed on 95% of the engines you will port. In fact, on most engines they may even be detrimental to performance. This 3120XP is a 60mm bore......and these finger ports are huge. They open a wee bit ahead of the main transfer ports in order to help push the spent exhaust out. They work pretty well on a large bore engine......but I wouldn't bother with them on a smaller engine.
Holds great rpm
That little bugger is getting it.That's probably my doing, I like to run them smooth where they feel like they cut best or fastest. The guys at the removal company I work at repetitively lean on them until they almost stall, let off, and repeat.
Just for fun experimenting with this farmertec kit ms250, and also to see how well JB weld holds up in a cylinder. I tried reducing the volume in the crank case by stuffing it with JB weld. Also added JB to the intake, and upper transfers to perhaps help the mix flow around the otherwise sharp corners, similar angle to what the Echo 490 & 590 have. I'm not sure if it helped, but the saw runs well. It definitely needs a lower exhaust port and higher compression.
Below, one side of the lowers setup, about to fill the other, but before smoothing and clearancing for the piston.
View attachment 565
No time spent purtying up the exhaust port, just hogged it out a lot.
View attachment 567
View attachment 568
In the video I was testing the stock muffler on it because the one I modified to exit out the front felt like it may have lost some low end torque, but gained a little high end torque. Even though the ms250 seems to have a lot of cooling surface area compared to other saw engines, it starts out quite sporty when cool, but after 5min or so of non stop firewood cutting, it seems to slow down a lot.
First cuts, not broken in yet, still tuning during that session. I attribute the low end torque to the raised and widened intake. I might leave the intake lower on my second kit. Cedar, then Hickory.
View attachment 566
100% for their cc class have good potential. That 18 and 325 it was Rowdy as heck. Good little sawsI'll probably run a 20" on mine for a limbing saw.
I bought the saw new in 1985 I think. The piston looks wonderful through the exhaust port.
So we shall see.
I would be worried about how it fairs against the heatThat's probably my doing, I like to run them smooth where they feel like they cut best or fastest. The guys at the removal company I work at repetitively lean on them until they almost stall, let off, and repeat.
Just for fun experimenting with this farmertec kit ms250, and also to see how well JB weld holds up in a cylinder. I tried reducing the volume in the crank case by stuffing it with JB weld. Also added JB to the intake, and upper transfers to perhaps help the mix flow around the otherwise sharp corners, similar angle to what the Echo 490 & 590 have. I'm not sure if it helped, but the saw runs well. It definitely needs a lower exhaust port and higher compression.
Below, one side of the lowers setup, about to fill the other, but before smoothing and clearancing for the piston.
View attachment 565
No time spent purtying up the exhaust port, just hogged it out a lot.
View attachment 567
View attachment 568
In the video I was testing the stock muffler on it because the one I modified to exit out the front felt like it may have lost some low end torque, but gained a little high end torque. Even though the ms250 seems to have a lot of cooling surface area compared to other saw engines, it starts out quite sporty when cool, but after 5min or so of non stop firewood cutting, it seems to slow down a lot.
First cuts, not broken in yet, still tuning during that session. I attribute the low end torque to the raised and widened intake. I might leave the intake lower on my second kit. Cedar, then Hickory.
View attachment 566
Only a rabbit hole if one wants to learn but never tries and only can learn from mistakes made.One of the reasons I don't post a lot of this stuff is because I hate the thoughts of leading people down a rabbit hole. These type of ports are absolutely not needed on 95% of the engines you will port. In fact, on most engines they may even be detrimental to performance. This 3120XP is a 60mm bore......and these finger ports are huge. They open a wee bit ahead of the main transfer ports in order to help push the spent exhaust out. They work pretty well on a large bore engine......but I wouldn't bother with them on a smaller engine.
Only a rabbit hole if one wants to learn but never tries and only can learn from mistakes made.
Me too. I've pushed this saw hard for around 15 tanks, and the JB weld has turned dark brown from the heat, but still remains. It is rated for 550degF. I don't know how hot the inner walls of the engine get, but 400-450deg F is the hottest I've seen on any chainsaw cylinder so far. Usually they don't quite hit 400F. Another concern of mine is heat expansion cycles causing it to peel away from the cylinder, but in most cases I try to prep the surface in such a way that the epoxy is shaped so it can't easily fall out even if it completely detached from the aluminum.I would be worried about how it fairs against the heat