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More than likely a wee bit of side loading on the bearings when the case halves were pulled up tight together. Have a look down on top of the crankcase where the cylinder will mount- does the gap look even between the outsides of the cases and the lobes of the crank? Can you measure them with a...

I might put it to you, that acceleration pulls more fuel and therefore more air is required through the vent to replace the volume in the tank- thus the tank vent is most probably fine and the problem is more likely to be in the low circuit of the carburettor. Could also be air leakage into the...

This is what I use to pull the worm gear- it is a bit nasty and rudimentary looking, is about 30 years old- but it works! The bottom is a 1/2" female threaded pipe fitting (ignore the external threads around the exterior centre). Tack welded to the top of that is a bit of steel pipe with a...

Yes it is- the problem is first you have to pull the press fit brass/bronze worm gear for the oil pump drive- then pull the bearing. There is a proprietary Husqvarna tool you can buy to pull the worm gear- or you can make your own with steel 1/2" pipe fittings and a bolt around 3/8" with a...

All cleaned up, cleaned out, put back together, tuned, bar dressed and chain sharpened- ready to be returned to the owner.

Amongst other things, the 266 got a new oil seal under the flywheel. Piston and ring were a wee bit marred- but were cleaned up and put back to service. Old style muffler from something similar in the family, had to drill it out to take 6mm bolts as the mount holes on the cylinder were flogged...

Farm I was working at, got to talking saws with the owner, he wanted a bigger saw for the second farm- sold him a much refreshed 066, he was happy. Couple of days later he asked me if I could have a look at their fencing saw- it is not running too good. Handed over a filthy little Husqvarna...

First priority perhaps is to find a good condition set of cases. Then if you are that deep in, new crank bearings and oil seals, new rubber- especially manifolds that often tear unseen on the bottom not helped by worn AV's. Get that all going and then you can think about carbs. Does the saw run...

Be good to get it solved though and figure it out. Might be within the carb- blockages or stuck needle valve not allowing fuel in. As I said, I am not familiar with the model enough to tell you if the case step is a common thing, or which carb they use. Finding a known good saw and swapping the...

The burn mark on the recoil......... Previous owner was burning a rubbish pile, it jumped and set fire to a large Macrocarpa tree- no worries says he- I have a big saw. Maybe a bit of panic involved in the falling of an alight tree, the weight sat back on the back cut and jammed the bar in the...

Sorry no- I live on the other side of the World and I am not much use at suggesting local shops that might help over in your part of the World, however if the saw is running a Walbro carb- a Walbro kit will be available for it.

Post#1 references old bars being splayed out. Post #3 mentions local shop owned by a retired logger. A well known hack by old time saw users looking to get maximum life out of a bar is to start with an 0.050 bar and chain, then as the bar groove wears, increase the gauge of the chain to suit...

Part No. 50210 OEM Part No: 507100551 Fits Dolmar models 290E Fits Frontier models F3335, F35VIP, FB35, MARK I, MARK II, VIP Fits Husqvarna models 33, 34, 35, 37, 38 Fits Partner models 1612, 1613, 1614, 1616, 1618, 22, 350, 330, P, PA, P2, MINI P3 Fits Pioneer models P-10, P-12 $44.61...

My thoughts are- what is that wee cork like circle- centre bottom of the photograph-pinky width to the fight of the case joint as viewed? If that is an impulse port- there is your problem- it should not be blocked. Not sure how to handle that step in the cases- but cork and silicone is not the...

Racing at idle, excessive smoke, high revs = air leak. This is still very much the diagnosis I am leaning towards- but you can never trust an aftermarket carb either. If the fuel screen in the original carb was blocked with fines- the rest of the carb very likely is as well and a good...

My guess- it has a massive air leak- do NOT continue to run the saw or it will run no more. It could be the unbranded Amazon carb- these can be good or they can be shocking- they are usually no where near spec when it comes to tuning and some need two full turns out to run anywhere near rich...

Nothing stupid about it at all. I bet many have suffered similar before. You noted earlier the old bars rails are splayed, so there is play available for the drivers and I would put money on the fact they have just a wee bit of burring on them that is causing them to bind in the tight new bar.

Cool, go do that and from what you say, the guy should appreciate your honesty.

Fair enough- pictures pain a thousand words. Can you put up a good clear photo of the drive links of the chain and the device the drives them off the clutch? And clarify if we are talking tight drivers in the new bar groove- or too tight over all once the chain is fitted to the newly acquired bar?

Old chains in new bars are never a good mix- new chains in new bars are a good idea and a NEW drive spur or sprocket. My guess is the drive links on the old chains are quite damaged/burred and binding in the tighter groove of the unsplayed new bar. Damaged drive links will in turn damage new bar...