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Just picked up this wee fella on the cheap last week. Ex arborist saw, had been to the shop umpteen dozen times (for the same issue) and had been dropped and the top handle broken/replaced, but basically it spent more time bogging on full throttle than it did running the chain at full...

Good to see you got it sorted easily- next step was going to be pressure and vacuum test and if you do not have the gear to do that.....

Well, its not getting something it wants. Is the electrode of the plug getting wet- confirming fuel is actually getting through the carb and into the combustion chamber? Has the muffler been removed to check piston for scoring? Timing- if the flywheel has moved position it could be sparking at...

If it passes leak down tests, nothing obvious in the rubber components- then the original cylinder could be cleaned up- new piston and rings- good to go. Hard to tell, but it looks like scoring all around- so possibly light oil/fuel mix or straight gas caught early. Whilst the cylinder is off I...

Decomp valve could be choked full of carbon and not releasing. Its not just the seals you want to check- main gasket, spark plug hole, decomp hole and intake manifold/tract are all areas that can leak- anywhere there is an opening in the cylinder is a potential air leak possibility. If you can...

Chain brake is on- locking the clutch bell? Incorrect assembly, something binding? Something fallen in and lodged between case and inner face of the flywheel? Strip it back down each side of the crank- flywheel back off, clutch and oil pump back off- check crank rotation then. If you went as...

On a Stihl it is easiest to test through the impulse line with the spark plug still in the cylinder. The impulse connects the pump side of the carb to the CYLINDER not the fuel tank.

Personally- I would not touch Lil Red Barn stuff. Id say something far worse than a lean condition is going on there- looks like something metal has gouged the side out of the piston- like a bearing having let go. You shuda kept the 3120.

Nice shop you have- when you wrenched the saw free you have stretched/bent those anti vibration springs and caused the excessive gap to form between case and tank.

When you say it "bogged down", was the bar and chain pinched in the cut and you had to wrestle it free?

Gap is fixed- but there is a small allowance for timing advance.

Cheers, but no need- will be half a dozen here already to choose from.

Are you sure all the components are compatible? With the spark plug out- does it feel the same? I just got a "new" tank for a 480- so can pull one apart to see.

Heat cycles? Do people actually do that? I will put my hand up and say I never do/never have- build 'em up, tune them a wee tad rich for the first 5 hours or so and get out there cutting with them.

Pretty normal filth- not an area that gets opened out and cleaned terribly often.

Yes- if you had mentioned heated handles from the get go it might have speeded things up no end! We do not see a lot of heated handle saws here- does not really get cold enough. Well thats good news- if it now rotates freely- you will see above I mentioned something about clutch and flywheel...

The clutch nut is low profile and if you are using a standard socket or ring spanner to try and grab it- look at the inside of those- the bottom is chamfered- so you are only just getting the top of the nut- they need ground to remove the chamfer- use a quality scrench- or try an open end...

You still have the cylinder off the saw Im guessing? So you could very possibly damage things trying to wrench the clutch off without some kind of blocking under the piston and around the conrod- like the plastic block in the ring compressor sets.

Hang on a minute- thats a generator under the flywheel- is it an Arctic model 461? Rotate your crank mow with the clutch and see if the ugliness is still there. Did not realise it was an Arctic before- lots more magnets in a generator than just the outers passing the coil pick ups.

See the bronze bit? Get a magnifying glass and have a look at it- its porous and a bush not a bearing as such, you can pre soak them in oil to preload them before fitting.