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Okay, I am just quoting the owners manual. Trust me.

If you do not apply the choke you have to lift the cover higher to clear it- putting extra pressure on the front mounting points.

Squeeze the throttle trigger, move the master control to the choke position. Slide the lock to the rear. Remove the shroud up and to the rear. My guess is you are not depressing the choke lever first? If you did not buy new, see if you can find online or download a copy of the 171, 181, 211...

So the saw did not come with any form of written instruction booklet or sheet?

With the clutch cover removed- the wheel that adjusts the chain tension must be moved all the way to - by hand with the chain on the bar. Chain and bar are then fitted to the saw as a unit. The chain drive links must be lined up with the drive slots on the crank and the wheel tensioned in the +...

If your replacement coil was an Amazon cheapy, I would not be trusting it. Pretty simple system, I never put a meter anywhere near a coil if I were to be honest- so either the coil is permanently grounded, the plug is faulty, or there is something messed up with the flywheel, or the HT lead and...

I guess- if you had a machinist friend, a cylinder off something with a top mounted decomp so he/she could understand the fitting and how the drilling is made- it could be done. Being a Super, it will be 46mm bore versus the 45 of the standard 029. Not sure- but I do not think there is a cheap...

Kill switch master control left in the off position? Damaged wire from coil to master control earthing out. Spring piece that completes the switch circuit of the kill switch come out of place and contacting the brass end of the kill wire when the master control is in run positions. Had you had...

When it comes to mtronic and autotune saws- I am a complete novice- but I imagine a carb swap without the associated electronics- or at least some kind of software update is never going to play nice together. Other options are wiring integrity- or lack thereof. The recommended mtronic rest...

The sheath is likely fallen out of the holder within the rear handle assembly,

Then my first guess would be a massive air leak that took the cylinder out originally has not been corrected. Or, straight gas took out the original cylinder and the subsequent heat created a main oil seal air leak. Could have also possibly taken out the key on the flywheel if the saw was at...

First off- make and model? Second off- explain complete rebuild?

If there is no drilling- then yes, only time/chance to lubricate said bearing is when the clutch is off for oil pump checks and or clutch repairs etc. However, it is not a bearing that needs lubed each time the saw is started.

See that hole in the middle of the crank shaft? Oil or grease goes in there and goes out through a cross drilling at about the middle of the internal face of the clutch drum needle bearing position. I guess if the oil way is clean and clear- oil could be used- personally I prefer grease from a...

I did manage to find an 012 at home. Same set up with the vent. Screwdriver shaft pointing to the foam inset in bottom of the airbox.

Sorry- was early AM when I read your post- you are NOT running a Stihl bar- just used Stihl oil. So we are back to possible blockage or mechanical issues. You could try reverse air through the system, from the bar pad back to the oil tank- clean up the oil tank breather. I have an exploded...

The drive sprocket on the clutch drum is absolutely worn out and damaging the chain drive links that badly they are binding in the bar rails. Were you having "issues" recently, so replaced an old worn out bar and chain? If so it is likely the drive sprocket or spur is just as worn and probably...

Just so happens- I have a pair of the same saws- but have not had any issues with the oiling system of either. First guess would be a blockage in the system- you can try a thin oil mixed with kerosene or diesel to "wash out" the system, or back blow the system with compressed air and see if...

It is kind of complicated to explain- not sure if I have an 011 to show you- but in the corner of the air box the carb is in there is a hole that has foam in it- the vent hose terminated in that foam and later models had a fuel filter at the end of the vent hose laying on the floor of the air...

It is a very simplistic way of allowing air back into the tank to replace used fuel and stop fuel exiting the tank when the saw is orientated to the side. Similar can be recreated with Tygon type fuel line and the original grub screws to form a replacement, the trick is finding line the same...