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With the addition of the little 90 degree I got from you I now use both wherever it's easiest, where I used to use just the straight piece all the time. :)

Surely I missed some things here and this isn't a end all of threads on the subject by any means. However I will try and answer any questions as best I can.

Now if we're happy with our work then it's finished off with our stamp of approval. Then off to be washed prior to installing.

Can't forget to match the exhaust gasket, heat shield and muffler to our newly ported exhaust port

After all these are work saws and no more air can be brought through than what the carburetor can deliver. Now if that carburetor happens to be larger in diameter this is a different story and now a little increase in manifold and intake tract can be warranted.

The intake is left alone the best it can be with the taking out of any imperfections and the manifold matched to the port. If we do have to take some off the bottom, it's usually pertinent to replace it with epoxy on the roof so we don't loose the pull on the carburetor and venturi effect so our...

Keep working my way down once the size and shape are made by sanding and polishing to a reasonable level, I don't get them like mirrors as I feel it unwarranted and unnecessary. However each finer step a straighter more nicely made port shape is made. Notice that I took more off of one side...

I like to rough in with 1/4" tooling starting with an aluma cut bit and working my way down to 1/8" tools with reduced diameters to get the corners tight and the finish finer as I go. I also like to leave a good arch in the roof for the rings to get by .

Onto the exhaust port. This particular cylinder has the height already optimized just from the machining alone, so we're just going to widen it to 65% of the width of the diameter of the bore straight across. Some may go a little less or more this just happens to be where I like to make them...

It's extremely hard to see what is going on in the back of the transfer, however with the aid of an adjustable mirror it can be plain to see. The round rough diamond can be used again to reach into the back and relieve any stair stepping so as we are left with a nice radius for the incoming...

Yes it's cut to the thousandth of an inch from the squish band to the new opening of the port, which when done will get it to the correct setting in degrees as checked by the degree wheel.

Bad pic, but, a rough diamond ball burr gets through where the plating is lapped over with ease. After taking down with a carbide burr, a smooth diamond burr is used for chamfering and smoothing any minor imperfections out.

I use a paper gauge to know where to cut to on the transfers and sometimes the exhaust.

I like to start out by attaching the cylinder to a porting stand to get started. Plugging the spark plug and decompressor holes, helps keep the shop a bit tidier.

Grainger always ships super fast to me and has never been a problem.

Be glad to try and answer any questions you may have if I can.. :)

Next up, on the porting stand. More on the rest of the process for another day.

Turned out well...

After rechecking squish clearance, I then follow up with cutting the proper amount off of the base to get the final squish tolerance I desire.

I like to cut the squish band first.