Ported Saws... Lets see your work fellas

[Nutball]

That's what I do to some of mine and sort of what I did to the 352. I like to widen and blend upward that intake side corner.

Echo 620p and 590 I ported, cutting dryish Ash. The barkless log was 2 year old really dry Ash, you could see the chain starting to dull after 3 cuts when looking at the teeth.

View attachment Ported 590 620 short.mp4

 

[Fabz]

Hotwoods 462c puttin the hurt on a Hotwoods 572xp and a Hotsaws101 461R. Wood is knotted hard maple and chains are New off the roll to make it even (no square grind chain) The 462 has the smaller piece but will STIHL defeat the others ...

.......

 

[Nutball]

I cut this 395 squish band tonight.

 

[Fabz]

... I wonder if a guy, instead of cutting the squish band, welded and then reshaped it to specs. This eliminates cutting the squish-band and then cutting the base, and allows use of a proper base gasket. If modded correctly the saw will likely outrun and definitely outlast one that had the squish band and base cut and the compression raised considerably. Port jobs used to cost $175-250 and would run the *poop* out of what’s being offered by most today cut after cut after cut, and I’m fixin to bring that price back in this rough economy. A few cookies cut might look impressive to the untrained eye but put that saw to work in a production environment and cut after cut after cut watch it fade in power- gets hot ... loses power - simple physics. Fabz out

 

[Nutball]

Don't worry, I'll be using my stock base gasket. Yes, porting can be a lot cheaper if there's no machine work involved: less time & tooling. Compression doesn't have to be higher with a base and squish cut. Some of the performance gain is in the size of the squish and squish band.

 

[Clint53]

It was a long time coming, but my first ported saw is finished and ready to go to the woods.

I started the build and had to do a 180° turn around. What I was doing just wasn't giving the results that I wanted.
I had a young guy step in that builds some great strong saws. He confirmed why I was questioning why some builders were doing things that didn't make good sense to me. He gave wonderful guidance in explaining why you do it certain ways. I now have a good understanding what a saw needs when I time it.
I started with the stock piston, then changed it twice more to end up with a Meteor.
Then I had a war with ignition coils. I could write a book on that.
I raised the roof and decked the jug (TWICE) to get the numbers I need.
In the end I have a strong running saw that was a non running freebee.
I'm happy with it. I'll call it a win for my first build.
Thanks for looking.
Clint

 

[jasent]

It was a long time coming, but my first ported saw is finished and ready to go to the woods.

I started the build and had to do a 180° turn around. What I was doing just wasn't giving the results that I wanted.
I had a young guy step in that builds some great strong saws. He confirmed why I was questioning why some builders were doing things that didn't make good sense to me. He gave wonderful guidance in explaining why you do it certain ways. I now have a good understanding what a saw needs when I time it.
I started with the stock piston, then changed it twice more to end up with a Meteor.
Then I had a war with ignition coils. I could write a book on that.
I raised the roof and decked the jug (TWICE) to get the numbers I need.
In the end I have a strong running saw that was a non running freebee.
I'm happy with it. I'll call it a win for my first build.
Thanks for looking.
Clint

Nice job. Torque always wins for me. I’m not the guy that likes to rev the saw to the moon then start the cut. I’ll lay the saw on the log then hit that trigger. Jmo

 

[Clint53]

Nice job. Torque always wins for me. I’m not the guy that likes to rev the saw to the moon then start the cut. I’ll lay the saw on the log then hit that trigger. Jmo

Thanks. Torque was my goal.
I'm not a fan of over riving saws either.
I was curious why you brought the subject up and watched the vid again. I didn't see where I really did that.
With that aggressive chain I couldn't play with it when starting the cut.

 

[jasent]

Thanks. Torque was my goal.
I'm not a fan of over riving saws either.
I was curious why you brought the subject up and watched the vid again. I didn't see where I really did that.
With that aggressive chain I couldn't play with it when starting the cut.

No I wasn’t referring to your video. Just many that I see.

For me and most folks I watch actually working with a saw hit the trigger just before the saw hits the wood.

I bring it up because some of these super fast saws you see need to be wound up before putting to work so they can cut with out bogging down.

Personal preference but I like a saw that can reach peak hp in the cut.
Again this is jmo.

 

[Fabz]

I’ve seen videos from a few where the saw is wide-open , 4 stroking and hovering over the wood and then suddenly “slammed” into the wood. Ohio hardwood / speed wood seemed to be the choice de jour

 

[Nutball]

I did that once at a GTG with my chinese 660 and heard a metallic ping. It still runs good, but when it happened it brought to mind someone saying a 066, I think it was, can break the shaft slamming into wood at full throttle. The flywheel torques too hard on the shaft.

 

[Clint53]

No I wasn’t referring to your video. Just many that I see.

For me and most folks I watch actually working with a saw hit the trigger just before the saw hits the wood.

I bring it up because some of these super fast saws you see need to be wound up before putting to work so they can cut with out bogging down.

Personal preference but I like a saw that can reach peak hp in the cut.
Again this is jmo.

Ah okay.
I agree and I have noticed that others do that also.
Many thanks.
Clint

 

[Fabz]

Nice runner Clint ! Sounds torque-y which is what a lot of guys want ... I know I’d rather have a saw that pulls hard dogged-in and STIHL winds out a bit more than stock top. 9000-10000 rpm in the wood works well for most firewood/tree guys. I can get away with the rakers , riders , stops down a fuzz from the stock .025-.026 (.028-.032) in the hardwood I cut and dog-in without stalling the chain ... she just EATS

 

[Fabz]

No I wasn’t referring to your video. Just many that I see.

For me and most folks I watch actually working with a saw hit the trigger just before the saw hits the wood.

I bring it up because some of these super fast saws you see need to be wound up before putting to work so they can cut with out bogging down.

Personal preference but I like a saw that can reach peak hp in the cut.
Again this is jmo.

If you’re felling trees and on/off the throttle then torque is king in my book. When ya punch it , she should pull the chain with authority while buried In The Wood. Might not win many “cant races” with it but it’s reassuring to know the saw ain’t gonna bog out like a stocker or a high-rpm cookie cutter. Not trying to start an ruckus , just how I like em to cut. I’ve had several guys run my saws - feedback has been from positive to “holy chit man she eats”

 

[Clint53]

Nice runner Clint ! Sounds torque-y which is what a lot of guys want ... I know I’d rather have a saw that pulls hard dogged-in and STIHL winds out a bit more than stock top. 9000-10000 rpm in the wood works well for most firewood/tree guys. I can get away with the rakers , riders , stops down a fuzz from the stock .025-.026 (.028-.032) in the hardwood I cut and dog-in without stalling the chain ... she just EATS

Very good Fabz.
I didn't measure the rakers, but you can tell it bites hard.
I have wondered if the is such a thing as being to fast when cutting. Is there a point of diminishing return.
For some it's when the saw explodes.

 

[Fabz]

I played around with enlarging / widening exhaust ports for more flow and it definitely gives a power boost along with consuming more fuel , Trouble is , it also seems to wear the rings out much quicker and I imagine if a guy goes too far the ring can hang/break - so I kinda 86ed that idear for an everyday worksaw and along the same line of thinking went away from higher compression as they seemed to run hot cut after cut after cut and the higher compression can do a number on the bottom end. I guess a guy could go from 50:1 to 32:1 on the mix to help that issue? As far as speed goes imho you gotta get the chain and the power head on the same page whether stock or ported. I think if a guy can get 20-35% faster cutting depending on model of saw with the near same or slightly less fuel mileage he’s doing something right and you’ll come out on top in terms of wood cut ... I’ve run other known builders saws that were strong but seemed to drink prodigious amounts of fuel (like the tank was empty and the oil reservoir STIHL had 1/2 tank with Oiler maxed) and get about 1/2 to 5/8 the runtime of a stocker saw. In that case maybe not so much. To me , the “Fastest Saw” cuts the Most amount of wood using the Least amount of fuel.

 

[Fabz]

These 441c run very strong when done right. My only gripe is that STIHL didn’t make it 76.5cc.

 

[Fabz]

Purring like a kitten ...

 

[jasent]

I’m out of big test wood again so I tuned it noodling.

 

[Ronie]

044 cylinder that's going on an 036, base cut, exhaust widened, intake squared up and a little off the piston skirts for clearance.

EX 109
TR 128
IN 76