Search results

I am a KROIL believer- if you ever play with old neglected firearms- this stuff is THE go to- that and the correct fit screwdriver bit. It has many uses around the chainsaw repair bench- will even "feed" faded dry plastics better than WD40. Will it 100% work in this situation where a steel...

That is the fuel tank vent- it breathes to atmosphere for the tank interior through a one way valve and does not require any hose or line. There are only two fuel lines on this model- one from tank and filter to carb and the other is a return line to tank from the purge valve.

https://www.hlsproparts.com/searchresults.asp?Search=K095&Submit=

K095 bars will have that hole- as will same mount style bars branded for Makita. The Forum is sponsored by HL Supplies- wonder what they have?

Your little Homelite should fit a small mount Husqvarna type bar- bar mount for Oregon is K095. Do you know what chain gauge and pitch you are running? As the pitch will have to be matched to the drive sprocket off the crankshaft- gauge will have to be matched if you have spare chains already...

026 is an icon of a saw, treat it well now and it will last another 30 years.

Ether is a bad thing for two strokes- starting on that is a "dry" start and is basically the same as starting on straight gas- no oil and so no lubrication. Could be one of several things- weak fuel delivery- lowering compression from wear- or an air leak. Sounds like it might be time for a...

G I believe was a designation for 3/8 LP on these era of bars- what those numbers are telling you is the bar number code as per the tip fitted to it- ie: for G (3/8 LP), standard 3/8 and .404 pitch chain if they were all 0.050 gauge. Off the top of my head- B4 means little to me regarding Stihl...

"Spun" the engine with all 3 coils- by drill or recoil starter? The coils are likely aftermarket ones- assume nothing around the fact they are factory new- QC can be laxed at best. Are you 100% they are even correct for model? Ohm readings mean very little to me- a coil either works or it...

Just disconnect BOTH wires from the coil system and THEN test for spark, preferably with an inline spark tester and by pulling the recoil starter rope- not a drill. Eliminate variables and test as the saw is meant to run. Those two wires do nothing but connect ground from the coil to switch and...

Exactly- something is wrong- mounting bolts are not it. Flywheel and coil not matched- incorrectly installed- stray earth within the wiring system- bad plug/plugs- incomplete circuits. Something went wrong and it caused you to replace the original coil- subsequent coils also did not work-...

yeah its called heat shrink or liquid insulation. But you dont need either- your coil bolts to the cylinder so it is grounded to it, with standard steel bolts and as it came from the factory. If the coil were bolted to the plastic case (like saw Husqvarna 350 models) there would be a metal...

Oil has an amazing ability to up compression, oil in the carb pulled through to the combustion chamber will weaken any fuel making it in there. A saw stored dry for a number of years might take some pulling to get fresh fuel all the way through the works. I would at the very least strip the...

That weird little quirk is probably an air leak- they are terminal for pistons and rings- not so kind to cylinders neither.

If that were your problem- the coil would be factory mounted to the plastic case of the saw from original. Part of the system must be live (the contacts to the flywheel face) and part of it earthed to ground (cylinder) or moving the kill switch would have no consequence.

The coil electrode with the bolt through it- almost looks to be contacting the flywheel?

You have the drill motor running in reverse eh?

I an willing to bet the coils work and everything else works- it is just not working together- due to something either not making a direct contact- or something making a contact that shouldnt be. Inline spark testers are good- no point flogging a dead horse if electrical impulse is not getting...

Okay- as you say- pretty simple system- so something simple is not working. If you are sure you have the correct parts and that are correctly assembled- try finding another piece of electrical cable-bare the ends of it, wrap it around the threaded section of the plug and attach the other end of...

Put it all together, all wires connected, put the kill switch to RUN and test again. Why was the coil having to be replaced? Are the magnets still good on the flywheel?