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Full tank- my go to would be upside down with the plug out- pull the rope several times and see if any fluids drain out.

Did you put it away tanks empty or tanks full? Could Mud Daubers have moved in to the muffler? If it went away hot and the fuel tank vent is obstructed- fuel can syphon into the cylinder and leak down into the crankcase- sitting below the piston it will not compress and move like vapours and...

The ignition modules are the same for the 435 up to at least 450 models. 435 and 440 are identical apart from the cylinder internals and port differences, both are the same CC's, just the 440 version makes a fraction more HP.

These are small Electrolux saws, I know they have a Jonsered twin, but likely not so easily found there either and Jonsered no longer exists. So possibly, what you are looking for is the same as a small Husqvarna model- but off the top of my head I cannot tell you for sure which model. I am...

1: Possibly 2: What you can afford. 3: Yes. Now to explain: Drive sprockets and nose sprockets on bars are NOT gauge specific and are usually suited to the largest gauge of any given pitch. So for 3/8 and your current set up, both the bar nose sprocket and drive sprocket will fit up to 0.063...

If it was easier to start beforehand and this hard to start condition is just being noticed- it might be time for a carb clean and kit. Excess fuel might be entering the system and causing a hydrolock like condition where too much fuel is present in a liquid form and liquid does not compress...

Are you 100% sure the brake is fully disengaging and staying set in that position- or is it tripping easily? Also sounds like your chain might be a bit tight in the adjustment- this is never good as it puts load on the drive region of clutch and crank bearings. Did you fully remove, clean and...

Husqvarna do not make bars- they have them made and branded for them- they used to be always Oregon bars, but they had Sugi Hara for a while and now the pro bars are Tsu Mura. Buy whatever quality or brand you can afford- nothing wrong with the factory "Husqvarna" branded ones.

For a start- saws do not have blades- they have bars. :ROFLMAO: So it came without bar and chain? First thing to check is the sprocket or spur that drives the chain off of the clutch- that will tell you if it is still set up for 3/8 chain or is someone has swapped it on to .325. IF it is...

No saw in running condition should require starter fluid to cold start- if it does, then something is wrong. With a used 271- that could be any one of the main things required to make a saw run- electrical as in ignition faults, low compression, incorrect timing or...

Welcome, which part of the big red dust bowl are you in? What kind of saws are you saving?

Had a few of the Jonsereds out for a play today- started with 2094, rocked a chain on a hidden in bark rock on the first cut. Went to 2077 with a 28 inch bar- did okay in semi dry Gum- but not great. Went back up to 2186 and found a more happy place. Used to 670 Champ to noodle up the rings too...

Porting a saw (in my limited on subject opinion) involves a bit more than just grinding out some aluminium and hoping. It requires some mathematics, some understanding on engine internals and their relationships, a degree wheel and an idea of what to do to achieve the desired results. More...

Took a gamble recently- Husqvarna 288XP, online- limited photographs- advertised as a redundant running saw, no longer needed as wood fire removed and heatpumps installed. Price was attractive (around $60 USD), so I took the risk- no way it was running- has a reasonable muffler, falling spike...

If you are just going to put those two up against those two- then it comes down to personal preference and what feels nice in the hand. They both make VERY good saws. But you have to compare like to like. I mean you cannot put the like of a 562 up against a 500i and expect them to be even...

If it passes that- say sits at 7lb for 5 minutes- (I doubt it will) then go to vacuum test but do not exceed .4-.6 BAR or 11.8-17.7 in-Hg.

Start with pressure- should hold 7lb for a good long while.

So it starts- idles, but when you pull the trigger it screams up into high revs and dies? Still an air leak is my guess- could be manifold or main crank seals. Pressure and vacuum test will diagnose- but if it will idle you can spray brake clean around the exposed clutch, flywheel areas to check...

My guess would be- the saw has a massive air leak- likely a torn manifold between carb and cylinder. This will allow for a huge change of the air to fuel vapour ratio, meaning the mix is extremely lean and causing the high revs when the saw is set at idle and you are not activating the trigger...

Showed up here Friday- for around $120-125 USD.