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Underside of the diaphragm there is a flange with a nipple that engages the metering lever- a plain nipple sits on the metering lever. The nipple with the groove sits in a fork in the metering lever. WT 136 carb should be a flat nipple and lever- if a grooved nipple diaphragm is used and sits...

Okay- ah the 136, or 36, or 41 or even 141- the saws I have grown to hate. :ROFLMAO: You do not "need" the W tool per say- tongue of the lever flush with the gasket less carb body with a straight edge (steel ruler) laying over. The kit you got- underside of the diaphragm- straight nipple of...

Very good penetrating oil, great for old firearms restorations. A little wiped on faded saw plastics helps feed and nourish the plastics back to some of their former glory.

Yes- I do.

Ask for photographic evidence and or the damaged parts to be returned. If a bolt rattled loose or some other metallic foreign body made its way in to the arc the flywheel travels- then yes steel will destroy aluminium and break flywheel fins. Clutch expanded? I am guessing you are meaning weak...

The vent is one way- lets air in to replace fuel used- but does not let air out.

Very little- unless I was there to judge it myself. I mean what can you see that will somehow pump air under pressure in to the fuel tank?

They do leak there commonly- but the horrid wee thinks leak everywhere- crank seals, engine pan, impulse, carb plate to cylinder...... Proper pressure and vacuum test is the only way to be dead sure it is not sucking air from somewhere.

If you have done a carb kit, are sure the internals of the carb are clean, have fuel flow from tank to combustion chamber- then more than likely you have an air leak- close the choke and you decrease the air volume- correct? So if you can only get it to run on choke and you are sure the carb is...

Bubbles in the fuel line can mean the filter is sitting above fuel level, ledged within the tank up high- not sitting on the bottom of the tank. Personally for all they cost- I would be replacing the filter. Pressure blows out- vacuum sucks in. If the breather is not working, a vacuum forms...

If the filter was off the fuel line- odd are a lot of crud has been pulled into the carb. Every time you open the tank to fill, bits of "stuff" fall in and build up in the tank- the filter keeps them in the tank and out of the system- filter falls off, crud goes in. So if you are up to it-...

If an older style 350 it could be the plastic clip holding manifold to cylinder has snapped, but with any 350 it is more likely to be the 4 bolts that go up through the bottom of the plastic case- through the riser and into the cylinder that have come loose. You can get to 3 of those without...

By all accounts your problem is not inhibiting the engine- but the transfer of the HP to the chain. And yes the replacement tip with be both gauges so you can replace it to either an 050 or 058 bar- but your bar is marked near the tail mount and as per he back of the box it came in as...

Sounds a bit like you may have exploded an oil pump or pump drive- thus locking the clutch drum under sprocket driving speed. Never seen a Tsu Mura bar marked for two gauges- need to see a photo of that.

You are not running a new 0.050 gauge bar with old 0.058 or 0.063 chain by chance?

No idea what your "ping" might be- but it possibly is not a good sign. Clutch shoes should expand far enough for the friction areas of the shoes to contact the inner wall of the drum.

Then about all that is left is drive links binding within the bar rails. Photos of the chain drive links- condition of bar etc be helpful.

Chain brake engaged?

So, if I understand this correctly- saw still restarts and runs fine- but no chain movement. With the chain removed, the clutch engages the clutch bell and rotates this and the drive sprocket, but if the chain and bar are refitted- chain does not rotate? Then best guess is a locked up bar nose...

Pull the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port- it might be mechanical and something is broken inside. That does not explain how relieving combustion pressure (removing spark plug) make it rotate freely though. So maybe pull the starter cover and the starter pulley- if it is...