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Bottom end of con rod is blue- it has been real hot from being run lean. I would not trust the lower rod bearing, but I am not there to inspect it either. You rebuild what you want to rebuild- but for my money that saw has been there and done that and is due for either extensive rebuild...

It goes through the bottom ring- nothing soft is going to do that

Best quick guess- its not pulling fuel into the cold empty carb- owing to a fuel filer issue, fuel line issue, or fuel pump (impulse and diaphragm) issue.

It wont be pretty if the needle from the bearing has done a couple of circuits in there.

Good T27 T handle tool options-

You might as well ring your buddy and tell him the good news- he can go look for a new saw. Remember the worst case scenario I referred to with the big end bearing loosing a needle- guess what is jammed in the face of the piston in the first photo.

Leaking seals have no bearing on compression. A compression tester measures the compression of vapours and air in the sealed area above any ports that would have access to the crank main bearings and seal region. Crank bearings are a totally different part from an Amazon top end kit and you...

Like new spark plugs are not new NGK plugs. You cannot tune a carb on a saw that does not run. You check the bearings by accessing crank play, checking for noise/rumbling and checking "feel" for uneven rotation or grittyness. Loaning a saw is a no no- the guy that broke it should have...

I am a bit loath to advise people way out of their depth to repair saws for others and for profit. Low compression is subjective unless using a specific small engine tester- if using a box store automotive tester- 65 might be as good a reading as you ever get. You need correct air/fuel mixture...

Clarify- the guy gave you a 440 as a gift and you now own it, will run again if you can repair it and you will own a running saw? Or guy gave you a saw to repair and charge him X amount to repair it so he can continue to use it as a pro tree service tool?

Hard to explain- they just kind of push up in there till they click into place and the straight leg comes down to contact the knee of the activation bar.

Does the MS 360 run the same parts? Stihl 034, 036, Ms 360 Oil Hose Kit New Oem 11240071010

Yep aware of them, if I looked a bit I will have an original bar for one in the shed- but yours is a very early example- first edition and as such is the only one with the odd carb.

By golly- looks like you are correct- K1 does every other carb from #2 to 15- but not the very first #1. My mistake sorry. However, a google search of M1 26153 does bring up a few options.

K1MDC is the major repair kit you are needing.

In my experience- these do not like hot starting without being put in the high idle mode. Before starting, pull the choke on and then set it back to off- this sets high idle on the carb and opens the throttle enough for the saw to start- will rev high until you blip the trigger.

@Norm- you should be able to advise on these old muscle saws.

They dont run real hot unless something is real wrong as a rule- and Husqvarna recommends 33:1 for them. Properly tuned, leak free and sharp chains- should not overheat. Delete the governor and tune lean to get some kind of max rpm and then some- then you might be in trouble.

I have heard the one from Dukes works- they offer moly coated ones and plain. Personally have never tried a non OEM and still have a late 2101 piston new in box in reserve.

Exhaust side? With visible piston locator pins?