Recent content by Bob Hedgecutter

When it comes to mtronic and autotune saws- I am a complete novice- but I imagine a carb swap without the associated electronics- or at least some kind of software update is never going to play nice together. Other options are wiring integrity- or lack thereof. The recommended mtronic rest...

The sheath is likely fallen out of the holder within the rear handle assembly,

Then my first guess would be a massive air leak that took the cylinder out originally has not been corrected. Or, straight gas took out the original cylinder and the subsequent heat created a main oil seal air leak. Could have also possibly taken out the key on the flywheel if the saw was at...

First off- make and model? Second off- explain complete rebuild?

If there is no drilling- then yes, only time/chance to lubricate said bearing is when the clutch is off for oil pump checks and or clutch repairs etc. However, it is not a bearing that needs lubed each time the saw is started.

See that hole in the middle of the crank shaft? Oil or grease goes in there and goes out through a cross drilling at about the middle of the internal face of the clutch drum needle bearing position. I guess if the oil way is clean and clear- oil could be used- personally I prefer grease from a...

I did manage to find an 012 at home. Same set up with the vent. Screwdriver shaft pointing to the foam inset in bottom of the airbox.

Sorry- was early AM when I read your post- you are NOT running a Stihl bar- just used Stihl oil. So we are back to possible blockage or mechanical issues. You could try reverse air through the system, from the bar pad back to the oil tank- clean up the oil tank breather. I have an exploded...

The drive sprocket on the clutch drum is absolutely worn out and damaging the chain drive links that badly they are binding in the bar rails. Were you having "issues" recently, so replaced an old worn out bar and chain? If so it is likely the drive sprocket or spur is just as worn and probably...

Just so happens- I have a pair of the same saws- but have not had any issues with the oiling system of either. First guess would be a blockage in the system- you can try a thin oil mixed with kerosene or diesel to "wash out" the system, or back blow the system with compressed air and see if...

It is kind of complicated to explain- not sure if I have an 011 to show you- but in the corner of the air box the carb is in there is a hole that has foam in it- the vent hose terminated in that foam and later models had a fuel filter at the end of the vent hose laying on the floor of the air...

It is a very simplistic way of allowing air back into the tank to replace used fuel and stop fuel exiting the tank when the saw is orientated to the side. Similar can be recreated with Tygon type fuel line and the original grub screws to form a replacement, the trick is finding line the same...

Well you need a drive link count to know if it is the same as a premade loop- or if you want to have one made at any saw shop worth a dime. You will also need to know pitch and gauge. Or you will need to supply any information regarding the DL count, pitch and gauge that may or may not be on or...

Very cool set up. Looks to be in real nice condition. Step 1: Remove chain. Step 2: Mark a drive link with a paint pen or sharpie. Step 3: Count the drive links of the existing chain. Step 4: Measure gauge with callipers or micrometre. Step 5: Order new chain to those conclusions.

https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/husqvarna-5mm-adjustment-tool-for-carburettors-oem-no-598-84-69-01.html?fbclid=IwY2xjawM8QAdleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETFkQXlraGt1amdGSlpWYlVEAR47z8v_2vjVPv_wh5QT1sLBU9C5z-btj4Fiy1m2si5U7uUjQKvaoRxUHFekYA_aem_XhUjabAb-c7_cXSVPdL8aQ