Recent content by Bob Hedgecutter

I do not know of anyone selling new- either OEM or aftermarket, but keep an eye on fleabay and google 380CD oil pickup for sale now and then, there are online places that specialize in secondhand chainsaw parts and stock changes often. Scrap saws, parts saws, marketplace etc. Without checking-...

As a rule- we do not hone cylinders- well at least not in the old school ways. A ball hone can be of use in the hands of the experienced- but generally- removal of transfer is all you do to coated cylinders- any groove, or gouge you can feel with a pick or fingernail catch is generally a...

Right enough- plenty of " how to " reading and watching out there in Internet land on how to go about it. With a Stihl you can use the impulse line as the air entry point to save making a plate with air nipple. Or you can knock the porcelain out of an old spark plug and epoxy a tube into the...

Well yes. if you want to spend money, but there are ways and means to cobble a system together. Mity vac 8500 is the way to go if doing many. Amazon cheap kit if not doing many, or a bike pump and some bits and bobs of tubing, inner tube and some kind of tube to tube connector. All that matters...

Needs to be a small engine specific compression tester with the light Schrader valve in the spark plug fitting to give a true reading. You are most likely using a generic automotive sized tester that will give false/low readings. Can see some vertical marks on the piston- might be something...

Yep, but I also asked for clarification about if it was getting to the bar pad gallery. Big difference as to reaching the bar pad and entering into the bar groove. Not to worry- you got it sorted.

Odds are pretty good, if a saw wont tune or hold tune- it usually has an air leak. Take the muffler off and look at the piston through the exhaust port- is it scored up? Pressure and vacuum test would be my first port of call.

Well yes. that would have been the first thing I suggested checking had you said little to no oil was getting to the bar pad gallery. :p

Not a favorite saw of mine- just about hate them- but willing to bet the farm the saw has been running on a lean condition of either poor fuel ratio, too lean on the carb settings, or an air leak. Remove the muffler and take a photo of the piston as viewed through the exhaust port- my bet, it is...

Well, much better being that- than the alternative. ;) :p When you put it back together, make sure the key is aligned with the slot in the crank, the flywheel is seated and square to the crank, do the nut up tight.

Possibly is the ground screw and possibly attached to the flywheel at the magnet. If you cannot pick, shake, rattle or roll it out as it sits- flywheel removal is the easiest route. Kind of depends what knowledge you have, what tooling you have as to if it is easy to remove or not- I take lots...

I cannot view the attached video. If I had to guess, first one would be something lodged between flywheel and case- like a stray bolt- jamming at a certain point of the 360 rotation. If the starter behaves normally off the saw, pawls are not damaged- we can assume all is well there. If with the...

Post one you said plenty oil coming from pump- post 3 and 4 you confirmed that- why are we now digging deeper? Off the top of my head- vent on the bar pad between the studs- or on riser of oil tank under the muffler.

If the worm drive was rubbish- there would be little to no oil making it to the bar pad gallery. (post #4) A piece of starter rope from an old damaged piece of equipment can be used as a piston stop- or any nylon rope at a push. The piston must be above the exhaust port before you feed the rope...

Could be- but could be an overheated piston swelling and nipping up as the saw cools after stopping to refuel- ie: partially seizing. Me, I would take the muffler off and check for scoring on the piston- but it may be happening just to the clutch side of the port and not visual yet. Possible...