Plastic worm gear drive not meshed with pump spindle. or not meshed correctly with clutch bell drive teeth, incorrect assembly and plastic worm gear stripped.
Incorrect bar tail that does not align with oil gallery.
Bar rails and oil port in bar filled with debris.
Photos always help.
I would replace it myself and try to figure out why it is happening.
Chains you have are all the correct gauge and pitch?
Suit the bar?
Any damage to the drive links of the chain?
Photos of the bar rails at the tail of the bar, drive sprocket on the clutch drum and drive links of the chains...
They are hard to find parts for- you get that with some older model, less common saws.
Only option I know of is good secondhand and following all the known checks to verify which components are incorrectly set or damaged on what you already have.
Keep looking at Ebay and secondhand parts dealers...
Yeah looks like the chain has been contacting the plate and bent it all out of shape- but the chain looks absolutely rocked out or ground struck as well.
Now way that chain is cutting wood the way a sharp chain will- and I do not just mean the side that has been contacting the plate.
Cannot say I have seen similar- but yes it is impulse driven.
I was thinking a saw same as the Partner 350, not unlike the Jonsered 370- but you show what is perhaps a rear handle version of the Jonsered 361?
Bit like the MS 200 is the rear handle version of the 200T from Stihl.
In my way of...
Are you able to photograph the saw and add the photograph here?
Just to clear up what we are talking about- is it a rear handled saw or a top handle saw?
Jonsereds are my "thing" but I must admit- some of them I do not bother with or have ever cared for.
However, I seem to remember there...
Hang on a wee minute- I just fact checked myself.
According to Acres site- the 365 has an automatic WORM DRIVE driven oil pump- there were other models of a similar shape (Lil'Jon's?) that were Frontieer's in red and black- the 365 was apparently made in Sweden not Canada.
So if we go off of...
There will be information out there on impulse oilers and it will all apply as they all work on the same principals.
What exactly is happening?
No oil leaking, but no oil getting to bar pad?
Or, no oil getting to bar pad, but oil leaking out the bottom of the saw?
You MIGHT get away with a...
Yes- we are talking about a small top handle chainsaw of 35cc not 65cc.
Not well known now and not featured much on the Internet,
Basically they are the same kind of thing as the Frontieer models that come in every colour of the rainbow and branded with near every saw makers name- they called...
The oil tank vent on these is located on the bar mount pad- directly behind the bar stud.
It is not a "vent" as such, but a simple drilling through the side of the case, with a split pin/cotter pin installed in that drilling- which allows air to enter the tank to replace the oil that has...
Was possibly pinched by screwing down the recoil starter cover- trapping the wire under- you can see the exact thing in my photographs, see the black wire folded under the air conductor plate in the first photo and in the second I have moved it but you can see the pinch point.
Couple of boxes were sitting at my front door when I got home last night- both reasonably hard to find here in NZ.
A nice example of a 49SP and an average example of a 2149- old meets new.
Can you clean it up and determine exactly where the oil is leaking from?
009, 011, 012 all leak oil and at the age they are now- are well known for it.
Hard to stop an one from leaking bar oil when the tank vent is a cotter pin in a hole. Make sure the hose has not separated from the pump
Other...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.