Recent content by Bob Hedgecutter

Don't know that it gets skipped- pressure testing the saw through that very line will show if it is good- or bad.

If it is the one with the " orange" 272XP decals and no decomp- it is still the same/same as the later ones- just a few minor changes like the addition of a decompression valve. I have a slightly earlier one #1150670, I should also have a service manual for them here- what were you after in...

Photos of the chain be good, and the bar and the drive sprocket under the clutch. Guessing the "plate" is the clutch cover? If the chain derailed- could well have damaged something and once the bar studs are tightened it is binding the chain with the damaged area. The sheet metal plate that...

Piston rings look okay through the port, may or may not be a trick of light showing a red/brown streak on the piston like it has been hot. Over heated piston usually scores up the clutch side front quarter of the piston you cannot see through the port- but thats only a possibility. Seemed to be...

20 year old 290- take the muffler off to check it- take a photo of the piston through the exhaust port. I am willing to bet the piston is scored up and the saw has a pretty major air leak. Plastic clamshells are well known to do this- I have several boxes of 029-390 saw wrecks here as they are a...

Could be a million and one things. But, gasses getting in (blocked air filter) and gasses getting out (mud dauber nests in the muffler) are two immediate thoughts. What model saw? Is it new to you and this is your first experience trying to get it going? Or, have you owned it for years and...

I believe that the part you are looking for is called a "deflection limiter" part number 523 0855-01. Looks like a wad of bath sponge- very often missing- I have a 555 here and it is goneski,

Last two lines of my last reply is where I would be looking. Incorrect timing of the spark in relationship to the compression stroke- shorn key on the flywheel. Or, massive air leak.

Okay, I am not entirely familiar with the particular model- but I can tell you the thing in your hand is a spring anti vibe and mounts between tank tail and case of the saw to allow for some anti vibration transmission. Photo two is of the pocket where that spring fits and bolts to the tank...

I believe the Craftsman saws of this era were made for Sears by Poulan as part of the Electrolux envelope. They also built the small consumer saws for Jonsered and Husqvarna there. You need spark, compression, correct air/fuel mix entering the combustion chamber and timing of that spark. So...

This is why pressure and vacuum testing are important steps of any rebuild. Eliminates the risk and guess work- takes away the assumption of this is broke, but I fixed that, so therefore have solved all issues- when in reality the obvious was seen and repaired , but other dangers were lurking...

Single bar stud 024? The early straight short fuel line- #11213587705 I do not think is available any more- so the easy way out is to replace with the later S shaped 026/260 one #11213587700. However- the new fuel line has a larger grommet sealing the top of the tank- so the hole needs enlarged...

Find a friendly hair dresser- 6% hydrogen peroxide used to bleach hair will dissolve the clay mud. Search for a parts diagram for the machine- it will show all the fixings in an exploded form.

Oh well, least its not major mechanical! Or terminal. So does the muffler come apart and easy to clean out?

Good to hear and great you reported back! I am not one for the restoration "heat cycles" and mild revs- I put them back together- tune slightly rich for the first 5 hours or so of run time- then there are only 2 speeds- Idle and Wide Open Throttle.