Recent content by Bob Hedgecutter

Yeah, if you have an unknown suspicious noise and it sounds metallic- probably not a great idea to spin the engine 12-14 thousand RPM and see if it gets better or worse, until you figure out what and where it is. In this case, it was simple- but if it was part of the engine letting go...

One of those things- you dont know if you dont know....... until you do know! None of us knew the answer to every saw question from the get go- you learn through experience- and we are all still learning.

Video of the saw running and making the sound might help. Could be a broken part of the muffler internally, could be the filter off the oil pick up line, or fuel filter off the fuel pick up line bouncing inside the tank. Could be clutch noise from a bad needle bearing, or worn clutch...

I have seen plenty of saws with any form of summer/winter shutter completely missing- some will be 40 or so years old and I cannot blame that missing feature for any damage to the saws. Only "possible" con is if the ambient conditions are extremely hot, the extra hot air could cause vapour lock...

The shutter has the instructions molded into itself- with arrows and rather obvious weather condition emblems as to which way it goes. Rather obviously, for winter running, snowflake emblem and arrow indicate the port is open to allow warmed air from around the cylinder to enter the airbox...

Yes- the pump is driven by crankcase impulse and has a diaphragm in it just like the carb has one, on the back of the pump is a solid tube pick up with a foam filter. There are also two gaskets in the pump. Pretty sure the gaskets and filter can still be bought- but the diaphragm is no longer...

In my experience- if a saw will not hold tune- it has an air leak. If you do not have the tooling to test, a shop can, but first off remove the muffler and show a photograph of the piston viewed through the exhaust port. Try removing the spark plug, tip a teaspoon full of oil down the hole on...

At a guess- if you used compressed air and managed to direct a blast down down through the hole in the bar pad the oil comes out of- you may have torn the diaphragm in the impulse pump, or damaged the spring under the diaphragm, or blown the foam filter off the pick up side.

Pretty sure that will be people guessing- not people that actually know the saw or own one. Best of my knowledge, Wiz or Wiz 55's are fixed timing= 30 degrees before TDC and full clockwise on the plate is factory setting. Have read of a file being used to slot the mounting holes to allow for...

Do not know as cannot view the videos- I only get the audio.

20 years is nothing for a coil= I will have saws here from the 1960's still running on original coils. The wiring you describe first post is Mickey Mouse and for me, it is not proved the old coil is bad- possibly the HT lead or plug cap might be- but nothing thus far suggested the coil needed...

So we are still parts chucking? Obviously something is still astray- something needed for combustion. If you do not have the tooling required and cannot cobble something up for a pressure and vacuum test- I would be taking the saw to a Stihl shop and asking them to do one on it- confirm all is...

Spark, fuel and compression is a general minimum and assumes a few things. You also need correct timing of that spark and the correct air/fuel mixture reaching the combustion chamber. So a shorn key on the flywheel, or substantial air leak can stop a saw from firing. Compression- unless...

If you have to resort to starter fluid- you have bigger issues. Okay- Stihl plastic case consumer grade saws are all pretty much the same- one wire with a ring terminal runs alongside the sparkplug wire and has a spade female terminal that goes onto the flat bit of spring steel that acts as the...

Well you have to pull the recoil starter off and enough of the saw to expose the flywheel- but should be plain to see after that.