Recent content by Bob Hedgecutter

Do not know as cannot view the videos- I only get the audio.

20 years is nothing for a coil= I will have saws here from the 1960's still running on original coils. The wiring you describe first post is Mickey Mouse and for me, it is not proved the old coil is bad- possibly the HT lead or plug cap might be- but nothing thus far suggested the coil needed...

So we are still parts chucking? Obviously something is still astray- something needed for combustion. If you do not have the tooling required and cannot cobble something up for a pressure and vacuum test- I would be taking the saw to a Stihl shop and asking them to do one on it- confirm all is...

Spark, fuel and compression is a general minimum and assumes a few things. You also need correct timing of that spark and the correct air/fuel mixture reaching the combustion chamber. So a shorn key on the flywheel, or substantial air leak can stop a saw from firing. Compression- unless...

If you have to resort to starter fluid- you have bigger issues. Okay- Stihl plastic case consumer grade saws are all pretty much the same- one wire with a ring terminal runs alongside the sparkplug wire and has a spade female terminal that goes onto the flat bit of spring steel that acts as the...

Well you have to pull the recoil starter off and enough of the saw to expose the flywheel- but should be plain to see after that.

Photos will help- but the ground is a T27 screw located on the flywheel side of the cylinder- just to the front of and slightly above the coil- should be a wire with a ring terminal from the coil and another going away to the metal section of the master control switch.

Welcome- ask away in the chainsaw section and provide photographs if you can.

Perhaps, over its lifespan, someone needed to fit a new carb, could not find one, so took a step back and used one from an older model?

Thats interesting- have not seen that particular arrangement personally- wonder if it is a plus or an issue?

Ah, yes certainly that will make a difference.

Metering lever height be another point to check- flush with carb body. Somewhere in Youtube land there is a good carb rebuild video- Leon's Garage or something similar.

I have a couple of non super Wiz's in the shed- new carb kits helped a LOT. How far and deep did the rebuild go? Are you 100% sure the points plate is timed correctly? Ignition timing and fuel delivery is where I would be looking. By that I do not mean flywheel timing and key- I mean the points...

Chain not sitting in drive gear properly- jammed between clutch bell and sprocket- pinching the chain and ceasing rotation? Pretty much nothing else can be done on the PTO side to lock the saw up- IF removing the bar and chain it returns to normal.

All cleaned up, repaired, parts replaced where necessary. Old 20 inch hardnose bar and Stihl .404 chain.