Recent content by Bob Hedgecutter

Have you pressure tested the carb to be sure the new needle you fitted is fitting the seat and actually cutting off fuel? Blocked tank vent might allow a vacuum to form that continues to pull fuel after the saw is stopped Got the diaphragm and gasket in the correct orientation on that side of...

Some aftermarket kits- the wee nub on the bottom of the diaphragm is WAY too long, so when assembled it holds the needle open- so the saw floods. If you can compare old to new still, on the bench with feeler gauges- you might see a marked difference. If you have thrown the old one out- it...

Knock off of a Zenoah. They are what they are- cheap small light work saws- not sure they are worth modification of "improvement"

"Classic hose clamp" is not the best option either- they are a bit large and stiff to do the job well and the tightening gear is bulky. My preference is for a screw band from a Stihl 066/660 or Husqvarna 372 to 390. Lighter, smaller and easier to obtain a good seal without the adjusting screw...

Cannot say I have ever run into this issue- what top end are you using? If an Amazon special it might be in the angle of the intake casting. To me after a quick look- its almost like the boot is not fully seated on the cylinder- not all the way on before the band clamp installed. I am not a...

Main throttle rod from trigger to carb? You push the blue lever towards the front of the saw to expose a notch in the plate at the end of the throttle bar of the carb- in that plate there is an open slot the inverted U of the rod sits in and once sitting there, you clip the blue lever back into...

It is entirely possible to hand file a damaged chain back to useable again- or you can take it to a shop to be sharpened on a grinder. You will loose a lot of material from each cutter- until the damaged area is removed- and it is likely the depth gauges will need adjusting, but if the top plate...

55 Rancher- personally I would be setting up with a 16 or 18 inch .325 system- but S83G is Xcut 3/8 I believe, 72 DL fits a 20 inch bar in both D009 and K095. So it sounds like the drive spur or sprocket on your saw is 3/8- if you want to use the 72DL chain you need a 20 inch bar in K095 mount.

Earlier versions of the saw, the oil line had a rubber nipple that entered the oil tank- there was an update at some stage and the nipple was eliminated- just a flat sealing surface. So dont be alarmed if any new line you order is not the exact same at the pump end when it arrives.

Going to search for seal replacement DIY's What do you mean? Ways of extracting the old and fitting the new? If you have not done it before- google the drywall screw removal method- its about the easiest and cheapest method out there. Pleanty of information out there about fitting new ones- I...

Lots and lots of variables- viscosity of oil, type of oil, temperature, correct bar tail to fit the particular saw, length of bar, excessive bar rail wear, incorrect or damaged drive links, debris in the tank blocking lines and or pump. Try running a Stihl- they are real stingy on oil delivery...

Yes- you will keep destroying top ends as long as you keep buying and bolting them on. Pressure and vacuum test before tear down- repeat test after rebuild. My guess is it is running excessively lean and sucking air from somewhere outside the system. Intake boot is a classic on these-...

At a guess- as the photos do not show the threaded section of the studs- the threads of one or both studs is damaged/partially stripped or cross threaded and the nut/nuts are no longer holding firm. Running with loose stud nuts allow the clutch cover to jump out of mesh at the brake junction...

The old parts chuck n hope game. This can get expensive fast if using OEM parts, get frustrating fast if using cheap parts and unless you stumble upon a cure for a single fault whilst doing it- can be a waste of money and time. 4## Husqvarnas were/are pretty lower grade consumer style saws- not...

Go to your local agent, or Ebay and look for Husqvarna clip/nut or U nuts. They were a common part on many plastic cased saws from around the 350 to the 460. Part number 503 22 69-02 and I believe were available in packs of three. Right rear looks like it had been shaped to fit a square nut...