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If an older style 350 it could be the plastic clip holding manifold to cylinder has snapped, but with any 350 it is more likely to be the 4 bolts that go up through the bottom of the plastic case- through the riser and into the cylinder that have come loose. You can get to 3 of those without...

By all accounts your problem is not inhibiting the engine- but the transfer of the HP to the chain. And yes the replacement tip with be both gauges so you can replace it to either an 050 or 058 bar- but your bar is marked near the tail mount and as per he back of the box it came in as...

Sounds a bit like you may have exploded an oil pump or pump drive- thus locking the clutch drum under sprocket driving speed. Never seen a Tsu Mura bar marked for two gauges- need to see a photo of that.

You are not running a new 0.050 gauge bar with old 0.058 or 0.063 chain by chance?

No idea what your "ping" might be- but it possibly is not a good sign. Clutch shoes should expand far enough for the friction areas of the shoes to contact the inner wall of the drum.

Then about all that is left is drive links binding within the bar rails. Photos of the chain drive links- condition of bar etc be helpful.

Chain brake engaged?

So, if I understand this correctly- saw still restarts and runs fine- but no chain movement. With the chain removed, the clutch engages the clutch bell and rotates this and the drive sprocket, but if the chain and bar are refitted- chain does not rotate? Then best guess is a locked up bar nose...

Pull the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port- it might be mechanical and something is broken inside. That does not explain how relieving combustion pressure (removing spark plug) make it rotate freely though. So maybe pull the starter cover and the starter pulley- if it is...

Full tank- my go to would be upside down with the plug out- pull the rope several times and see if any fluids drain out.

Did you put it away tanks empty or tanks full? Could Mud Daubers have moved in to the muffler? If it went away hot and the fuel tank vent is obstructed- fuel can syphon into the cylinder and leak down into the crankcase- sitting below the piston it will not compress and move like vapours and...

The ignition modules are the same for the 435 up to at least 450 models. 435 and 440 are identical apart from the cylinder internals and port differences, both are the same CC's, just the 440 version makes a fraction more HP.

These are small Electrolux saws, I know they have a Jonsered twin, but likely not so easily found there either and Jonsered no longer exists. So possibly, what you are looking for is the same as a small Husqvarna model- but off the top of my head I cannot tell you for sure which model. I am...

1: Possibly 2: What you can afford. 3: Yes. Now to explain: Drive sprockets and nose sprockets on bars are NOT gauge specific and are usually suited to the largest gauge of any given pitch. So for 3/8 and your current set up, both the bar nose sprocket and drive sprocket will fit up to 0.063...

If it was easier to start beforehand and this hard to start condition is just being noticed- it might be time for a carb clean and kit. Excess fuel might be entering the system and causing a hydrolock like condition where too much fuel is present in a liquid form and liquid does not compress...

Are you 100% sure the brake is fully disengaging and staying set in that position- or is it tripping easily? Also sounds like your chain might be a bit tight in the adjustment- this is never good as it puts load on the drive region of clutch and crank bearings. Did you fully remove, clean and...

Husqvarna do not make bars- they have them made and branded for them- they used to be always Oregon bars, but they had Sugi Hara for a while and now the pro bars are Tsu Mura. Buy whatever quality or brand you can afford- nothing wrong with the factory "Husqvarna" branded ones.

For a start- saws do not have blades- they have bars. :ROFLMAO: So it came without bar and chain? First thing to check is the sprocket or spur that drives the chain off of the clutch- that will tell you if it is still set up for 3/8 chain or is someone has swapped it on to .325. IF it is...

No saw in running condition should require starter fluid to cold start- if it does, then something is wrong. With a used 271- that could be any one of the main things required to make a saw run- electrical as in ignition faults, low compression, incorrect timing or...

Welcome, which part of the big red dust bowl are you in? What kind of saws are you saving?