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Okay, I am not entirely familiar with the particular model- but I can tell you the thing in your hand is a spring anti vibe and mounts between tank tail and case of the saw to allow for some anti vibration transmission. Photo two is of the pocket where that spring fits and bolts to the tank...

I believe the Craftsman saws of this era were made for Sears by Poulan as part of the Electrolux envelope. They also built the small consumer saws for Jonsered and Husqvarna there. You need spark, compression, correct air/fuel mix entering the combustion chamber and timing of that spark. So...

This is why pressure and vacuum testing are important steps of any rebuild. Eliminates the risk and guess work- takes away the assumption of this is broke, but I fixed that, so therefore have solved all issues- when in reality the obvious was seen and repaired , but other dangers were lurking...

Single bar stud 024? The early straight short fuel line- #11213587705 I do not think is available any more- so the easy way out is to replace with the later S shaped 026/260 one #11213587700. However- the new fuel line has a larger grommet sealing the top of the tank- so the hole needs enlarged...

Find a friendly hair dresser- 6% hydrogen peroxide used to bleach hair will dissolve the clay mud. Search for a parts diagram for the machine- it will show all the fixings in an exploded form.

Oh well, least its not major mechanical! Or terminal. So does the muffler come apart and easy to clean out?

Good to hear and great you reported back! I am not one for the restoration "heat cycles" and mild revs- I put them back together- tune slightly rich for the first 5 hours or so of run time- then there are only 2 speeds- Idle and Wide Open Throttle.

No idea- never worked on one. But- is the chain trying to turn as the engine is turned over? Could be a locked up clutch- bearing seized on crankshaft. Totally blocked exhaust from insect nests. Hydro locked, crankcase full of fluids. Me, I would be unbolting things to see if it made any...

Do not know the model in person- but first thoughts would be main needle in the carb stuck open and allowing fuel to flood in- hydro locking. Second would be if the oil pump is driven by crankcase pressure, damaged duckbill allowing oil from the tank to enter the crankcase. Failing that, it...

Recently arrived at my doorstep in a box. 1988 was the first year for the 288 XP version, no decomp on the cylinder and probably started out life as a "flat top" . This is the only true Eliminator blue top cover I have seen over here- but it still has the remains of the red decal and the casting...

Have you pressure tested the carb to be sure the new needle you fitted is fitting the seat and actually cutting off fuel? Blocked tank vent might allow a vacuum to form that continues to pull fuel after the saw is stopped Got the diaphragm and gasket in the correct orientation on that side of...

Some aftermarket kits- the wee nub on the bottom of the diaphragm is WAY too long, so when assembled it holds the needle open- so the saw floods. If you can compare old to new still, on the bench with feeler gauges- you might see a marked difference. If you have thrown the old one out- it...

Knock off of a Zenoah. They are what they are- cheap small light work saws- not sure they are worth modification of "improvement"

"Classic hose clamp" is not the best option either- they are a bit large and stiff to do the job well and the tightening gear is bulky. My preference is for a screw band from a Stihl 066/660 or Husqvarna 372 to 390. Lighter, smaller and easier to obtain a good seal without the adjusting screw...

Cannot say I have ever run into this issue- what top end are you using? If an Amazon special it might be in the angle of the intake casting. To me after a quick look- its almost like the boot is not fully seated on the cylinder- not all the way on before the band clamp installed. I am not a...

Main throttle rod from trigger to carb? You push the blue lever towards the front of the saw to expose a notch in the plate at the end of the throttle bar of the carb- in that plate there is an open slot the inverted U of the rod sits in and once sitting there, you clip the blue lever back into...

It is entirely possible to hand file a damaged chain back to useable again- or you can take it to a shop to be sharpened on a grinder. You will loose a lot of material from each cutter- until the damaged area is removed- and it is likely the depth gauges will need adjusting, but if the top plate...

55 Rancher- personally I would be setting up with a 16 or 18 inch .325 system- but S83G is Xcut 3/8 I believe, 72 DL fits a 20 inch bar in both D009 and K095. So it sounds like the drive spur or sprocket on your saw is 3/8- if you want to use the 72DL chain you need a 20 inch bar in K095 mount.

Earlier versions of the saw, the oil line had a rubber nipple that entered the oil tank- there was an update at some stage and the nipple was eliminated- just a flat sealing surface. So dont be alarmed if any new line you order is not the exact same at the pump end when it arrives.

Going to search for seal replacement DIY's What do you mean? Ways of extracting the old and fitting the new? If you have not done it before- google the drywall screw removal method- its about the easiest and cheapest method out there. Pleanty of information out there about fitting new ones- I...