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Clammy cylinder = clamshell design- where the machine has a plastic case and the cylinder extends down to form half of the crank encapsulating area- like a clamshell. Under the saw, bottom of the case, partially hidden under the tank tail- are four T27 bolts that hold the cylinder to the plastic...

Wont set? Or is touchy to set- but does not alter? If it cannot be tuned out to balance- odds are pretty good it has an air leak somewhere. Check the intake block and gaskets associated to the intake system.

No idea off hand where the yellow goes- I shy away from trying to repair consumer grade saws if I can. However there are several Craftsman 55's in the shed, willing to bet they are much the same saw in a different colour.

Ah the big Stihl plastic saws- gotta love to hate them. First thing I would be doing is checking the condition of the piston through the exhaust port with the muffler off. Next thing would be pressure testing the fuel line with the filter removed- thus also testing the carb. Plastic clamshell...

This gives "some" good points- regarding tensioning spring and aligning the hub- but do NOT start the saw like this fellow.

Without seeing the saw and making a guess- I would say whatever the issue was that caused the first failure has not been corrected and is simply being repeated. A lot comes down to using the correct starting procedure with these "soft start" saws.

...... aftermarket parts (fuel line) with no green O ring, or other aftermarket parts not up with the play.

.....fuel tank vent.

Could be one or more of several things- but the H jet has little to no bearing on the transition from idle to WOT- that is the domain of the L circuit of your carb. H controls how much or how little fuel is available to the compression area when the throttle is already at WOT, for the initial...

Only one wire from switch needs disconnected- eliminates a faulty switch. If you have replaced all major components properly- flywheel, coil and spark plug- with genuine new products from a Husqvarna agent- then if you have not seriously goofed something in assembly- how can it not spark? Maybe...

Without doing the math- guessing 8 thou is close to 0.3mm. Right so if you say all is correct mechanically- only thing it can be is a fault in the wiring system. Damaged HT wire or connection inside the boot from coil to plug, or permanent to ground on the kill switch circuit.

Yes the engine turns over- but is it turning over by the starter unit- or is the flywheel spinning on the crankshaft? Is my query. Trying to eliminate a shorn flywheel key/loose retaining nut. With all the coil swapping that has gone on- what is the air gap set at? Where did the replacement...

Are you sure the starter is engaging the flywheel and actually turning the engine over? What happens if you put a drill on the flywheel nut and check for spark? Can you turn the flywheel WITHOUT turning over the engine? Chainsaws do not just out of the blue stall- it did so for a reason.

If it is a new saw- take it back, its under warranty. If bought at a dealer- ask for instruction on how to cold start it. They have a soft start recoil don't they- are you using it correctly? Are you using the choke for two rope pulls, choke off and pull the rope? It came with an instruction...

Okay, if your chain is that kapoodled that tightening the clutch cover caused it to bind- I would be looking pretty seriously at the drive sprocket or spur and the bar itself. If they are major worn, the new chain will chop out in no time. Oh and a split lock washer? Will chew out the alloy...

So anyhow- have you recently replaced the chain- the bar- or both?

In my way of thinking, pretty normal and once run a bit, you might find it settles into a more conforming shape. Put your old chain back on and see what the gap looks like- nose sprockets wear and need replaced once in a while- but that one looks pretty new. The nose sprocket and drive sprocket...

Have you recently replaced the chain- the bar- or both? If all ducks are in a row, the nut must be reasonably tight to do its job- not that tight that it pulls the stud from the case- but not loose either. If tightening the nut is binding the chain- something is not correct in there- like a...

291's are a temperamental kind of saw- I would be pressure and vacuum testing as a matter of course if it is hard to start/wont start.