So what’s the best 2 stroke oil?

EggShooterist

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I took your post as a joke. I was unaware of your testing different oils. Though to be honest even if you showed me your saw running on that oil I wouldn’t use it or recommend it. It sounds like it worked but my spider senses say no thanks.

I see these oil posts often to and it drives me nuts when folks give bad advice as a joke. Not that it matters much to anyone else just how I feel. I don’t expect anyone else to cater to my feelings.

But I was that guy wanting to take the best care of my new saw and asked a million questions just like this one. I’m glad I got good info

I’d love to read about your oil testing
While I consider bringing my extensive testing results here, I'll leave this tid bit....if an individual can put their feelings aside, what matters most is proper ratio for the engine cc, rpm range and intended usage of the saw, trimmer, bike ect. Not the name on the bottle. I have "boundary" tested 22 two stroke oils thus far and I'm not done. It can take up to 30-40 hours per oil with everything I do in these tests plus a fair amount of $$. There is only one oil of those I've tested that I wouldn't run in anything. There is another I haven't tested that I wouldn't run either based on many trusted individuals that I hang out with in the ope forum. Those oils...Stens and Lucas synthetic.
 

EggShooterist

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Chainsaws run too hot for Castor oil

Klotz SuperTechniPlate (20% castor "Benol") 50 tanks did this


View attachment 614 View attachment 615 View attachment 616


It still ran well when I took it apart, but the rings were and are to this day still stuck hard in the exhaust side.
Yep. Castor is nasty in OPE. Supposedly degummed castor is much less dirty. No idea. Something I read about Maxima 927. I also recently discovered Blendsall I believe it's called. Tripple filtered castor base Motorsports oil. Not sure if its as nasty as the super Techniplate or benol. May try it one day. Testing only.
 

RedneckChainsawRepair

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Chainsaws run too hot for Castor oil

Klotz SuperTechniPlate (20% castor "Benol") 50 tanks did this


View attachment 614 View attachment 615 View attachment 616


It still ran well when I took it apart, but the rings were and are to this day still stuck hard in the exhaust side.
Seen that happening with that 80/20 super too. In a ported 7901. I switched to 100% Synthetic Klotz KL200. Never another issue. But IMO steer clear of bean oils.


Got tired of ordering KL200 by the cases so switch to a local oil over a year ago. VPRacing. IMO it and Kl200 same nice coatings.


kl200.jpg vp2.jpg vp22.jpg
 

Mastermind

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Fellas....I have tried literally every oil available from straight bean oil, too the highest of high end racing oil. Seriously.

Over the years I have been "sold" on Poulan Synthetic as is sold at Walmart, Belray H1R, Yamalube 2R, and Amsoil Dominator.

I would be happy to use whatever the Dollar General Store happens to have in stock if I didn't have any other oils.

Some observations.

Nothing at all wrong with the Poulan oil. It's made by the same company as Husqvarna Silver. Good oil that will not hurt your chainsaw.

The Belray H1R is probably one of the best oils you can use for a milling saw. Mix it at 32:1 and it is incredibly good protection for your saw. Remember one thing though....this oil is not a good choice for Autotune or Mtronic saws. It's too thick, and will hurt performance.

The Yamalube is another good oil. It mixes well, and works good in any saw from 25cc to 125cc.

My oil of choice today is Amsoil Dominator. Works equally well in any saw, and if you have an ear for a crisp tune, no oil I have used tunes better.

My advice?

Stop overthinking oil, and make damn sure your gasoline is as best as possible.

Get gas without ethanol if possible. 89 octane is ideal. Keep your gas fresh. Store it out of direct sunlight and in an unventilated container.

Then....pour in some oil...yes 50:1 is ok, 40:1 is too, and go cut some damn wood. :)
 

CR888

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Maybe we should avoid false info in this forum.
For threads that get asked a million times I typically use a copy and paste answer or just keep scrolling. Jmo
All forums are essentially just a big bunch of non vetted opinions & chit-chat. So good luck 'ruling out' false information. That doesn't say they can't be a fantastic resource of information and possibly the best place to go to educate yourself on a niche subject. My advice on oil could go on for a long time so I'll just contribute one tip that might be helpful. Find a good oil your happy with that's easily accessible and fair in price. Then STICK to it. Often folks have an oil shelf that looks like the top shelf at your local bar and they change oils like they do underwear. You'll never know how any oil performs long term doing that so make a good choice and stick with it if it's working well. I run Shell 2T oil Shell Advance VSX.
 

EggShooterist

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Fellas....I have tried literally every oil available from straight bean oil, too the highest of high end racing oil. Seriously.

Over the years I have been "sold" on Poulan Synthetic as is sold at Walmart, Belray H1R, Yamalube 2R, and Amsoil Dominator.

I would be happy to use whatever the Dollar General Store happens to have in stock if I didn't have any other oils.

Some observations.

Nothing at all wrong with the Poulan oil. It's made by the same company as Husqvarna Silver. Good oil that will not hurt your chainsaw.

The Belray H1R is probably one of the best oils you can use for a milling saw. Mix it at 32:1 and it is incredibly good protection for your saw. Remember one thing though....this oil is not a good choice for Autotune or Mtronic saws. It's too thick, and will hurt performance.

The Yamalube is another good oil. It mixes well, and works good in any saw from 25cc to 125cc.

My oil of choice today is Amsoil Dominator. Works equally well in any saw, and if you have an ear for a crisp tune, no oil I have used tunes better.

My advice?

Stop overthinking oil, and make damn sure your gasoline is as best as possible.

Get gas without ethanol if possible. 89 octane is ideal. Keep your gas fresh. Store it out of direct sunlight and in an unventilated container.

Then....pour in some oil...yes 50:1 is ok, 40:1 is too, and go cut some damn wood. :)
Yes!
 

EggShooterist

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All forums are essentially just a big bunch of non vetted opinions & chit-chat. So good luck 'ruling out' false information. That doesn't say they can't be a fantastic resource of information and possibly the best place to go to educate yourself on a niche subject. My advice on oil could go on for a long time so I'll just contribute one tip that might be helpful. Find a good oil your happy with that's easily accessible and fair in price. Then STICK to it. Often folks have an oil shelf that looks like the top shelf at your local bar and they change oils like they do underwear. You'll never know how any oil performs long term doing that so make a good choice and stick with it if it's working well. I run Shell 2T oil Shell Advance VSX.
And yes!
 

EggShooterist

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I missed the fact that there wasn't an oil thread here...

EVERY forum needs an oil thread!
Im just happy as a pig in mud I'm not looking for a different oil. Just hanging out for a civil conversation on a subject I have been very interested in for many years.
 

Tyy

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Chainsaws run too hot for Castor oil

Klotz SuperTechniPlate (20% castor "Benol") 50 tanks did this


View attachment 614 View attachment 615 View attachment 616


It still ran well when I took it apart, but the rings were and are to this day still stuck hard in the exhaust side.
Actually the opposite , castor based oils require extreme heat to work effectively . It's anti galling properties is what it was intended for when 1st designed over 50 yrs ago for racing applications . Unfortunately from the get go it required routine 50-100 hour tear downs of even the most extreme recreational engine applications . Race engines normally are tore down weekly to freshen up the rings , piston & clean heads between race events . There the routine decarbonizing was just another component of prerace preventative maintenance lol. Today many hotsaw enthusiasts utilize castor based oils in their race saws . However my personal opinion is , there are many other modern synthetics , that can provide extreme saw protection without the downside of decarbonizing rituals . Red Armor is one of them as is Amsoil Dominator when mixed properly . The most important fact is proper tuning of the engine to the oil mix ratio and intended use or application. P.S. Have raced both snowmobiles & dirt bikes for over 30 yrs seen the good & bad of 2 cycle engine oils , along with many yrs of firewood cutting & saw mtce of everything from Pioneer , Mac , Husky , Stihl & Dolmar & Solo . Anyhow I will fess up , I currently favour Amsoil Saber mixed within various ratio's for my hand held saws & trimmers etc . There is no really bad oils just improper usage or better realized as operator error within mix & tuning . ;)
 
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