Cylinder Base Sealants

[Wonka13]

Base gasket deletes coming on a couple of my saws…I’ve read & watched regarding the cylinder base sealants, but am a touch confused….Three Bond 1184, Yamabond, Hondabond, etc… what, if any, are the differences between them that would cause you to pick one over the others…or are they all pretty much the same? The SDS data doesn’t tell me a whole lot

 

[BabyD]

Personally I use Permatex Motoseal because its available at any auto parts store. The only difference ive noticed is the Motoseal seems to skim over and set quicker than the other options so you kinda got to be quick. I always get the piston started in the cylinder then apply the Motoseal then all I have to do is slide it down.

 

[Wonka13]

Gotcha. 1st time doing a base gasket delete, so still learning

 

[jasent]

I like motoseal as well but as mentioned it’s cause it’s easy to find for me

 

[Labfab]

I typically use motoseal for the same reason, have used the motorcycle branded sealants before as well.

 

[82F100SWB]

Motoseal here as well. Have used Yamabond in the past as well(used to work at a Yammy dealer) and I prefer the motoseal.

 

[Bjorn T]

Hello, I use three bound 1184. Never had a leak, since I Started useing it.

 

[Iroczu]

Agree with the folks about availability of motoseal being easy to find at autopsies places, and if you need a tube at 9pm because you ran out or got bored just run to the store and pick up a tube and go! So far zero issues with moto seal over here

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Dirko - never let me down. I do have a tube of motoseal, but used once and it failed.

 

[BabyD]

Dirko - never let me down. I do have a tube of motoseal, but used once and it failed.

Could you tell me more about the failure? I use Motoseal frequently and haven't had a problem yet and I don't want to.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Could you tell me more about the failure? I use Motoseal frequently and haven't had a problem yet and I don't want to.

Sure, so motoseal isn’t a gap filler to the same degree as Dirko, which in certain circumstances is a great thing. There shouldn’t be any gaps for it to fill between case halves. However I put together a Stihl fs55 clam shell strimmer with motoseal, followed the instructions, very clean surfaces etc. I let it set up and pressure tested it and it failed. I could see where the sealant didn’t fill between the two halves. Others have had issues with it not curing and blowing out too.
However, what really matters is that it works in your application and clearly works for lots of others too. In all my rebuilds Dirko hasn’t failed once so I stick with it, although not specifically fuel resistant, it works well.

 

[Mastermind]

Dirko - never let me down. I do have a tube of motoseal, but used once and it failed.

Dirko is absolutely the best sealer. Period. But.....it is pricey.

I've gone thru a bunch of different sealers over the years.

Hylomar Blue is what I've been using for about a year now. I use a flux brush to apply it to both surfaces. I think it might be my new favorite.

 

[Ronie]

I like Hondabond, it's cheap and works good.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Motoseal works just fine, a one in six saw failure rate lends itself more to applicator failure than product failure.
Use whatever fuel resistant liquid gasket maker you can find that fits your wallet, easy to find locally, does have a reasonable working time before curing and does not solidify in the tube after the first use.
Myself, I tend to use Yamabond 4 because it is easily found here. That opens up another can of worms- not all Yamabond is the same (same as some of the other products) Yamabond 4 is the one you are after, it has the most desirable qualities for what we want to use it for in chainsaw repairs.
What you do not want to use is a standard RTV type silicone.

 

[Ronie]

Motoseal works just fine, a one in six saw failure rate lends itself more to applicator failure than product failure.
Use whatever fuel proof liquid gasket maker you can find that fits your wallet, easy to find locally, does have a reasonable working time before curing and does not solidify in the tube after the first use.
Myself, I tend to use Yamabond 4 because it is easily found here. That opens up another can of worms- not all Yamabond is the same (same as some of the other products) Yamabond 4 is the one you are after, it has the most desirable qualities for what we want to use it for in chainsaw repairs.
What you do not want to use is a standard RTV type silicone.

I've also used Motoseal without a problem.

 

[Red97]

Hylomar blue

 

[Wonka13]

Dirko is absolutely the best sealer. Period. But.....it is pricey.

I've gone thru a bunch of different sealers over the years.

Hylomar Blue is what I've been using for about a year now. I use a flux brush to apply it to both surfaces. I think it might be my new favorite.

These?

 

[Mastermind]

These?

Yes sir.

 

[Wonka13]

Yes sir.

Coolio. I bought some 1184 a while back, but have yet to use any.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Dirko is absolutely the best sealer. Period. But.....it is pricey.

I've gone thru a bunch of different sealers over the years.

Hylomar Blue is what I've been using for about a year now. I use a flux brush to apply it to both surfaces. I think it might be my new favorite.

I have heard good things about Hylomar, though I’ve not tried it yet.

It sounds like it’s used in similar applications to “Aviation form-a-gasket 3”? I use that on every gasket, it’s very good. Like hylomar it doesn’t cure, and its very sticky, but I allows you to remove gaskets without a problem.