Stump Shot
Active member
You'll do absolutely fine using that product. I have went through numerous tubes of it over the years on countless saw cylinder bases, never a bad seal.
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Cylinder Base Sealants
- Thread starter Wonka13
- Start date
You'll do absolutely fine using that product. I have went through numerous tubes of it over the years on countless saw cylinder bases, never a bad seal.
Stump Shot
Active member
Permatex Permashield is like hylomar blue and can be found in auto parts stores.
Stump Shot
Active member
Don't forget Kawabond!
All of the "Bond" sealants are from a manufacturer in Japan, I'll let you guess where the Japanese engine makers go to to get some sealant made. Hint, second from right.
All good stuff and if you use it right will do it's job as intended.
All of the "Bond" sealants are from a manufacturer in Japan, I'll let you guess where the Japanese engine makers go to to get some sealant made. Hint, second from right.
All good stuff and if you use it right will do it's job as intended.
RedneckChainsawRepair
Active member
Red Dirko HT and Threebond 1184 here only.
Depending on what it is and use needed depends on what I use.
166 tank got 1184.
Depending on what it is and use needed depends on what I use.
166 tank got 1184.
Vintage Engine Repairs
Member
It’s worth noting, no sealant we use is designed to be submerged in fuel. You’d never use any of them to patch a gas tank for example.. they’ll either dissolve or soften (if they are chemical cure like motoseal) or expand and or shrivel up (if they are silicone based). People say Dirko HT Red is fuel resistant. It’s not, no silicones are. I had a friend contact Elring in Germany who was able to confirm it too. It will work, but pour a little fuel onto some that has cured and you’ll see what I’m taking about
Here I have categorised the different sealants into their groups.
Silicone base sealers (remove
with fuel):
Dirko HT
Dirko Grey
Yamahabond 4
Pactan 6075
Permatex ultra black
Permatex the right stuff
Permatex ultra grey
chemical cure - (remove with acetone):
Hylomar universal blue
Yamahabond 1104 NEO Plus
Yamahabond 1194
Yamahabond 1184
Permatex Motoseal
Curil - T
Hondabond 4 ( TB1194)
Rosin Base Sealers (Alcohol cure / remove with IPA):
Permatex 2
Permatex 3
Here I have categorised the different sealants into their groups.
Silicone base sealers (remove
with fuel):
Dirko HT
Dirko Grey
Yamahabond 4
Pactan 6075
Permatex ultra black
Permatex the right stuff
Permatex ultra grey
chemical cure - (remove with acetone):
Hylomar universal blue
Yamahabond 1104 NEO Plus
Yamahabond 1194
Yamahabond 1184
Permatex Motoseal
Curil - T
Hondabond 4 ( TB1194)
Rosin Base Sealers (Alcohol cure / remove with IPA):
Permatex 2
Permatex 3
tacotodd
Member
Good information. Okay guys, back to machining the cylinder and using the gasket.
So much for our EASY way to get more compression. UNLESS, unless we can find an inexpensive but reliable source for pop ups that are easy to acquire. 
Would sure like an xt popup for my 372Good information. Okay guys, back to machining the cylinder and using the gasket.
Vintage Engine Repairs
Member
My post was more to show how really any of the sealants listed (besides the last two) will be just fine.Good information. Okay guys, back to machining the cylinder and using the gasket.
none are perfect, it’s all a compromise and you should have good luck with any. I’d personally start with Dirko, but as others have said, so many others do work too.
Mastermind
Active member
Excellent post.
Mastermind
Active member
In the past I've tried pretty much every sealer available, some work better than others.
One was Loctite 518. What I was after was a sealer that wouldn't squeeze out into the transfer ports and mess up my case/transfer matching work. The 518 seemed like just the thing. It only hardens in the absence of air, so anything that pushes out of the joint should wash away. The problem with it was that it doesn't fill irregularities well. I had a leak on a 346 using it. Now.....keep in mind that it sealed beautifully on a few hundred other saws. This one leak worried me though. So I switched to Dirko Red. I never had a leak using Dirko. But I was back to worrying about excess squeezing out into the transfers.
Then Joe AKA Red97 mentioned that he uses Hylomar Blue. I did some research and decided to try it. When I first started using Hylomar Blue, I was a bit wary of it. It seemed a little thin. But I was using my finger to apply it. I found that by using a flux brush, and applying it to both sides of the joint, I could get a really good seal. So far I've used a whole tube, and part of another without any leaks.
All that said.....
I prefer to use a base gasket anytime I can. There are only a few saws that I delete the gasket on.
Off the top of my head these are the only saws I don't use a gasket on.
Stihl MS201T
Stihl MS150T
Echo CS-2511T
Echo CS-590
Husqvarna 395XP
Husqvarna 346XP
One was Loctite 518. What I was after was a sealer that wouldn't squeeze out into the transfer ports and mess up my case/transfer matching work. The 518 seemed like just the thing. It only hardens in the absence of air, so anything that pushes out of the joint should wash away. The problem with it was that it doesn't fill irregularities well. I had a leak on a 346 using it. Now.....keep in mind that it sealed beautifully on a few hundred other saws. This one leak worried me though. So I switched to Dirko Red. I never had a leak using Dirko. But I was back to worrying about excess squeezing out into the transfers.
Then Joe AKA Red97 mentioned that he uses Hylomar Blue. I did some research and decided to try it. When I first started using Hylomar Blue, I was a bit wary of it. It seemed a little thin. But I was using my finger to apply it. I found that by using a flux brush, and applying it to both sides of the joint, I could get a really good seal. So far I've used a whole tube, and part of another without any leaks.
All that said.....
I prefer to use a base gasket anytime I can. There are only a few saws that I delete the gasket on.
Off the top of my head these are the only saws I don't use a gasket on.
Stihl MS201T
Stihl MS150T
Echo CS-2511T
Echo CS-590
Husqvarna 395XP
Husqvarna 346XP
Hyway Piston Kit Pop-Up 50mm for Husqvarna 372 XP X-Torq, 365 X-Torq*
www.hlsproparts.com
Attachments
Vintage Engine Repairs
Member
Just did a quick video re Dirko and fuel resistance
Vintage Engine Repairs
Member
W
Would you use hylomar on the outside of metal oil seals?
Vintage Engine Repairs
Member
For anyone using gaskets anywhere, I can’t recommend highly enough “permatex aviation form-a-gasket 3” on them all. I see people using motoseal or threebond on gaskets, but I can assure you, you’ll much prefer the above. No need to rush to get parts together as it doesn’t dry, you can remove and re attach the gaskets and they don’t tear, it seals imperfections, it is easy to clean up and is fuel safe.
I’ll just apply it with a paint brush, let the gasket air out for 2-3 mins, put it in place (it also sticks the gasket to cases so it doesn’t fall around or off), bring the parts together and then I’ll wash the brush it in acetone for next time. It smells nice for a sealant too.
I’ll just apply it with a paint brush, let the gasket air out for 2-3 mins, put it in place (it also sticks the gasket to cases so it doesn’t fall around or off), bring the parts together and then I’ll wash the brush it in acetone for next time. It smells nice for a sealant too.
Mastermind
Active member
I never use any sealer on the outside of metal seals.
I use Indian Head Gasket Shellac for a gasket dressing.
Vintage Engine Repairs
Member
Good to know, thanks Randy! I’ve never tried Indian head shellac, I’ll do some googling.
Ok thats good to know ive never used Motoseal other than on case halves and cylinder bases both of which are good fitting machine surfaces I totally see what you are saying now that I think about it. Its all about using the right thing for the right applications there is no single product for
All applications
Justsendit
Member
Excellent thread fellas!
I currently use Dirko HT Red and Threebond 1184, however after reading this information I may want to try out a couple different items for different applications. However, it should be noted I have found Dirko works very well in other applications I never intended it… well like all over… everywhere. LOL
I currently use Dirko HT Red and Threebond 1184, however after reading this information I may want to try out a couple different items for different applications. However, it should be noted I have found Dirko works very well in other applications I never intended it… well like all over… everywhere. LOL
tacotodd
Member
Just do what ya gotta do sometimes, cause it’s make do with or leave NOTHING and guarantee failure.
Real1
Member
"permatex aviation form-a-gasket 3"
I used this stuff WAY back on military vehicles with respect to gas contact....because it was so hard to get real gaskets and I hadn't learned yet how to make my own gaskets. And then when I did learn, I used this stuff to dress the gasket lightly. I tired everything else back in the day available to me in a small mountain town area.....nothing else held up against gas contact.
But I've never deleted the base gasket on a chainsaw, so I can't speak with any authority there.
Kevin
I used this stuff WAY back on military vehicles with respect to gas contact....because it was so hard to get real gaskets and I hadn't learned yet how to make my own gaskets. And then when I did learn, I used this stuff to dress the gasket lightly. I tired everything else back in the day available to me in a small mountain town area.....nothing else held up against gas contact.
But I've never deleted the base gasket on a chainsaw, so I can't speak with any authority there.
Kevin