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Correct air/fuel mix entry to the combustion chamber- spark- compression and timing is all you need to organise in a row of ducks to get the saw running. First and foremost for me would to be ensure you have good strong spark.

The "Guru" seems to think ignitions from the 123 and 143 might interchange- off the top of his head.

Sorry, Dolmar's are just not my thing- but I can use the phone a friend option. I think the 133 can share ignition components with some of the other bigger model same vintage saws- will ask my local guru and see what he suggests.

What sort of sized saws are you thinking? I have clamped the inner spikes (dawgs in your part of the World?) of some of the larger saws in a large engineers vice and started them whilst held in such a way (without bar and chain attached). There is a multi positional chainsaw "vice" with a...

Rebuild the carb I think is being suggested. Genuine carb kit, replace all the bits that can be after a thorough cleaning of the carb body and all orifices within that body. Do not use compressed air from a workshop compressor and blow off gun to clean the tiny fuel passages of chainsaw carbs-...

So most probably a Chinese manufacture "big bore" - be aware that most of their big bore offerings are exactly that- over bored versions of the smallest cylinder in that particular family. They do not have model specific porting and often produce less power than the same diameter OEM cylinders...

Will likely be quality tools fit to last a lifetime as well.

Where did the "big bore kit" come from? As in country of origin?

No experts here neither- just some generally good natured folk with varying degrees of knowledge. You would be amazed by the amount of 2 stroke equipment users that never understand how the machine works- that is very common and people perhaps know about valves and above cylinder intake inlets-...

Yes, but was trying to get Elapid to explain how it worked, to establish if he had an understanding of how the fuel travels from the tank into the combustion chamber. This explains it really well-

???? Where are you expecting it to "bottom out" to? How do you see the fuel getting into the cylinder?

Welcome aboard. What two cycles are on your bench to begin with?

Cut the mufflers up so they can breathe- repair suspect looking purge valves and lines (line out of tank has a habit of sucking flat under full RPM load) remove any limiters on carb screws and see what you end up with.

The 4218 is stratto carb versus the 220 isnt. Either way, they are both pretty much bottom shelf saws with the Poulan brand not being anywhere near the quality they once were pre Electrolux involvement. Lots of things restrict these wee box store saws- lean from the get go, very cheaply made...

Of course if not HAVING to buy a new saw..... should be plenty of Husqvarna 350's kicking about and I would grab one of those long before the 251 or 440...... but that is based on the fact I can access and repair anything needed on a secondhand 350 fairly easily.

Probably, in your market- the Echo's as well. They are usually much cheaper, well made and dependable in the sub 50cc range; The first two you mention come from very reputable brands- but are fairly consumer grade saws.

Neither. But is it a fair fight to put a 41cc up against a 45cc? May not sound much but when you work it out in percentages, in smaller saws it can be quite a jump.

My first jump to answer would be massive air leak before "needs a new carb". A wash, rinse, spin cycle in an ultra sonic cleaner and new carb kit will do wonders for the original carb no doubt, but your saw really needs a true to cylinder size compression test with a proper small engine tester...

If it looks like this, but grey with a black top cover- it is basically a Poulan 3400 counter vibe and should be running standard 3/8" chain. As such, you can get any bar with a D176 mount pattern and the chain to suit- a decent bar will have the information regarding chain pitch, gauge and...