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Ah, so unknown history and unknown parts replacement. Timing off a few degrees. Flooding/ Hydro locking. Excessive carbon build up. Binding or damaged starter pulley. Damaged/broken clutch components. Any of the above can interfere with clean starting. As you remove items off the saw-...

Well- it could be any one of a number of things. But lets start with who refurbished it and why? What did the refurb entail- what parts were replaced and what were they replaced with? The 435 is no monster to start- but there are things that can make it more difficult.

Your oil line is no longer available- but was part number 43731010531 and it had an expanded end to fit the nipple, a right angle formed in the tube and a socket at the other end to allow for a pick up oil filter. It is part #8 in the diagram. Card or paper gaskets were quite common and you...

Nice work on the homemade tool- did you use a bar between the bolt heads to lever with? Cant really help with the oil line- I do not know if they has a cast in grommet to seal through the case- or specific fit up to the pump? But if i is straight shot nipple to nipple then Husqvarna coil type...

Yes- but also remember I am recommending on borrowed information- we do not have pennies here! But yes, I believe you need the smaller flat base tool. However, if you have some steel- 3 small bolts and one large nut- it is not too hard with the assistance of a drill and a welder- to make your...

There will be Echo specific clutch removal tools all over Ebay and Amazon- but there are several types. You need a sense of scale to pick the correct one. If you sit a penny on the crank stub centralised and look straight down on the penny face and the triangle on the clutch centre is same as...

Most certainly. I do not own a Jonsered that is complete and does not run. Had I included parts saws- I would need a bigger deck! :ROFLMAO:

As per video it goes- 2094, 2094- 2186-2083-2077-2171-670 Champ- 630 Super, 630, 630, 1st year 630- 2159- 2152- 2050- 2045- 2040- 2137.

Just the Jonsereds lined up at home.

I bought a few for these saws- that is my last new one. Think there is a slightly worn one on one of the 201's and the rest have been run to death.

Wow. Neat old piece of history. Way out of my league- I will happily admit I know hothing about them- but maybe the carb might benefit from a strip down and run through an ultrasonic cleaner. Hope someone here can help you out and you can get this old girl operational again.

Came with a fairly typical broken recoil cover- the small section below the oil fill busted off- had a spare off an old 2041 (I think) Bucking spike is off the original 2045 I bought and ran into the ground way back when these saws were new to the market. Plastic chain catch stolen from a...

Never personally owned a 2050- until now. Typical of my saw buying- needs some repairs, but the price was right. Apart from the usual air leaks- needed some new muffler studs- I did not have any on hand- but had enough of the old ones, some long stainless steel M5 machine screws and a...

Hands down my favourite top handles- Stihl MS 200's and 201's.

My three favourite Stihls. 064, flat top 066 and 200T.

Well, 350 number 2 that arrived in the cardboard box is good to go. Had to borrow some bits from the first $10 saw, this one was missing a cylinder riser bolt and all the internals of the clutch cover that make up the brake system. But all in all a pretty simple fix. Still awaiting some parts...

Lets see some content! Start logging in, start posting. Lets see your saws- dont have to be the latest, the greatest, dont need to be new, dont need to be ported- just take some photos of them- working or not, start a post and put them up. They need not be frustratingly broken, but perhaps...

Heres the thing- with the top cover removed- start the saw. Let it idle and with a small screwdriver or similar, cross the two blade terminals at the ends of the wires at the red switch- if the saw stops- the issue is somewhere within the switch system. If it continues to run with the two wires...

Then something still isn't correct- either current is not travelling on the earth side or the contacts are not being made through something appearing to be touching that isn't or something being broken that is not allowing the trigger contact to find earth/ground.

The leak got major before the top end burned up- one of the bottom bolts that hold the cylinder riser in place actually fell out of the saw and is missing!