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First thoughts- too rich on the H circuit. If all other ducks are in a row tuning wise, I would make small adjustments to the H by say 1/8th of a turn in and see if that makes a difference. If you go too far it will lean the mix out at WOT to a point of scoring the piston- so do not stray too...

020AV was 38mm bore 020AV Super was 40mm 020AVT was a top handle saw- ie: arborist or tree climbers saw 020AVP was the "professional" rear handled saw.

Don't bother with the Stihl site- just go to open internet- it will be there somewhere. Stihl pretty much drop anything that was not current 15 years ago, it becomes unsupported- the 020AV is WAY older than 15 years. If you are unsure what the H&L are and which screws hold panels, which adjust...

Few other adjustments? There are only 3 screws for tuning- the High the Low and the idle speed screw. I have all the manuals for the 020 somewhere in a box- but they will be on the internet somewhere in PDF form- search 020AV owners manual, or 020T.

Cold start- apply full choke, pull starter until first "pop" as saw fires- move master control to half choke/fast idle, start saw- once running flick master control to the "run" position immediately. Not quite that easy with the old 020 model and the choke not really part of the carb, but a...

Were the carb and sparkplug OEM replacement parts- ie: NGK spark plug- not TORCH or some other crapola name? Pressure and vacuum test would be where I was heading if it were on my bench.

Idles for 20 seconds, starts, idles and goes up to full throttle for 20 seconds? H&L should be around 1 turn out from lightly seated- idle screw can go in as far as you like and then adjusted once running to a speed the clutch disengages and the chain stops rotating. Generally, if a saw does...

Spark, correct fuel air mix entering the combustion area, compression and correct timing is all it takes for a chainsaw to run. Photos of said good engine components would have been nice. Running rich or tuned rich is not a result of oil ratio in the mix, it is in the carb tuning. Heavy carbon...

Picked up a couple of cheap old saws the other day, photo of them as they hit the ground out the back of the truck in the pre dawn hours that my days start at. Bonus points if you can tell me make and models. :p

If you have to use ether- you have major problems still. Gas pressure on the hose confirms nothing about the lower crankcase integrity. Missing key is only an issue if the flywheel was not correctly aligned and the fit on the taper was not sufficient to hold it there- all that key does is...

Did you give the cylinder liquid gasket at least 24 hours to cure before trying to start the engine? Amazon no name carb? My sequence would have been pressure and vacuum test after liquid gasket seal to confirm air tight, clean and kit original Stihl carb (no ethanol fuel here) pressure test...

I am guessing whatever you got was not from a Stihl shop or is OEM Stihl replacement parts?

High as the tip can go. Think about it- 90% of the cutting you are likely to do is with the bottom side of the bar, in a downward motion. So, if the stud nuts are not tight- or it is a budget lightweight saw- odds are pretty good the bar can be forced up anyway (especially with the casual...

Never seen it in a saw personally. What midel and make are you talking? There was an era of thin ring use where each individual ring was only 0.7mm thick, not 1.2 or 1.5mm.

In a chainsaw- no. Got any photographs of said rings?

Yes pressure and vacuum test- not compression test. Testing compression only kind of verifies the condition of the piston ring/rings- not the presence of any air leaks that generally happen below the compression area.

Im not a Stihl dealer- been a decade or two since I was involved in the corporate side of things. I am just a guy with a bit of knowledge earned over the years repairing most major brands of chainsaw. So you have not actually pressure and vacuum tested the new short block with added on parts...

Well, I personally would never have invested that kind of time effort and dollars into a 271- certainly not one of my favorite Stihl models. However, it isnt mine and not my decision. Could be not enough speed on the rope to make good spark. I like to wrap a bare wire around the threads of the...

Well if approaching Winter is heading into Autumn- then yes, I guess we are. Water drains down the hole in an opposite direction as well- but a Stihl 271 is still a Stihl 271. Check integrity and connection of all earth wires. Only use an OEM ignition module on these, part # 1141-400-1307...

Every speck does not need to go- but if you tried to run/start the saw on straight oil, it will be in the tank filter, fuel line and carb- all of which will need cleaned out. Rinse the tank with mixed fuel, swill it about in there, dump it out in a bucket, refill with fresh mixed fuel and if the...