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Spark, correct fuel air mix entering the combustion area, compression and correct timing is all it takes for a chainsaw to run. Photos of said good engine components would have been nice. Running rich or tuned rich is not a result of oil ratio in the mix, it is in the carb tuning. Heavy carbon...

Picked up a couple of cheap old saws the other day, photo of them as they hit the ground out the back of the truck in the pre dawn hours that my days start at. Bonus points if you can tell me make and models. :p

If you have to use ether- you have major problems still. Gas pressure on the hose confirms nothing about the lower crankcase integrity. Missing key is only an issue if the flywheel was not correctly aligned and the fit on the taper was not sufficient to hold it there- all that key does is...

Did you give the cylinder liquid gasket at least 24 hours to cure before trying to start the engine? Amazon no name carb? My sequence would have been pressure and vacuum test after liquid gasket seal to confirm air tight, clean and kit original Stihl carb (no ethanol fuel here) pressure test...

I am guessing whatever you got was not from a Stihl shop or is OEM Stihl replacement parts?

High as the tip can go. Think about it- 90% of the cutting you are likely to do is with the bottom side of the bar, in a downward motion. So, if the stud nuts are not tight- or it is a budget lightweight saw- odds are pretty good the bar can be forced up anyway (especially with the casual...

Never seen it in a saw personally. What midel and make are you talking? There was an era of thin ring use where each individual ring was only 0.7mm thick, not 1.2 or 1.5mm.

In a chainsaw- no. Got any photographs of said rings?

Yes pressure and vacuum test- not compression test. Testing compression only kind of verifies the condition of the piston ring/rings- not the presence of any air leaks that generally happen below the compression area.

Im not a Stihl dealer- been a decade or two since I was involved in the corporate side of things. I am just a guy with a bit of knowledge earned over the years repairing most major brands of chainsaw. So you have not actually pressure and vacuum tested the new short block with added on parts...

Well, I personally would never have invested that kind of time effort and dollars into a 271- certainly not one of my favorite Stihl models. However, it isnt mine and not my decision. Could be not enough speed on the rope to make good spark. I like to wrap a bare wire around the threads of the...

Well if approaching Winter is heading into Autumn- then yes, I guess we are. Water drains down the hole in an opposite direction as well- but a Stihl 271 is still a Stihl 271. Check integrity and connection of all earth wires. Only use an OEM ignition module on these, part # 1141-400-1307...

Every speck does not need to go- but if you tried to run/start the saw on straight oil, it will be in the tank filter, fuel line and carb- all of which will need cleaned out. Rinse the tank with mixed fuel, swill it about in there, dump it out in a bucket, refill with fresh mixed fuel and if the...

Being the correct flywheel for the model also helps- like the 064/066 series, there are about 30 possible combinations of flywheel and coil for those- assemble a saw from a parts bin and you can have all sorts of headaches finding the correct combination. Air gap from coil to flywheel can be...

What saw? How were they fitted? Any seal, OEM or aftermarket can be fitted incorrectly and fail near as soon as its fitted. Pressure testing is your friend. Both before to confirm new seals needed and afterwards to ensure correct fitting. VERY easy to dislodge the seals inner spring on fitting...

Usually dry fit.

Generally, alter angles to suit the wood being cut. Some species will cut better at 25 degrees than 30 and visa versa. You do what suits the conditions and the powerhead pulling the chain. The proposed use of the setup- no point having a 30 degree grind on a chain going on a milling bar.

If it works for you- it works for you. Over here for what I do and species I cut- very real chance of setting the bark of most species smoldering. Left unnoticed, very real chance of setting woodlot/forest on fire. Its an issue when full bar cutting big logs and the muffler is near brushing...

Okay, I am just quoting the owners manual. Trust me.

If you do not apply the choke you have to lift the cover higher to clear it- putting extra pressure on the front mounting points.