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I bought a few for these saws- that is my last new one. Think there is a slightly worn one on one of the 201's and the rest have been run to death.

Wow. Neat old piece of history. Way out of my league- I will happily admit I know hothing about them- but maybe the carb might benefit from a strip down and run through an ultrasonic cleaner. Hope someone here can help you out and you can get this old girl operational again.

Came with a fairly typical broken recoil cover- the small section below the oil fill busted off- had a spare off an old 2041 (I think) Bucking spike is off the original 2045 I bought and ran into the ground way back when these saws were new to the market. Plastic chain catch stolen from a...

Never personally owned a 2050- until now. Typical of my saw buying- needs some repairs, but the price was right. Apart from the usual air leaks- needed some new muffler studs- I did not have any on hand- but had enough of the old ones, some long stainless steel M5 machine screws and a...

Hands down my favourite top handles- Stihl MS 200's and 201's.

My three favourite Stihls. 064, flat top 066 and 200T.

Well, 350 number 2 that arrived in the cardboard box is good to go. Had to borrow some bits from the first $10 saw, this one was missing a cylinder riser bolt and all the internals of the clutch cover that make up the brake system. But all in all a pretty simple fix. Still awaiting some parts...

Lets see some content! Start logging in, start posting. Lets see your saws- dont have to be the latest, the greatest, dont need to be new, dont need to be ported- just take some photos of them- working or not, start a post and put them up. They need not be frustratingly broken, but perhaps...

Heres the thing- with the top cover removed- start the saw. Let it idle and with a small screwdriver or similar, cross the two blade terminals at the ends of the wires at the red switch- if the saw stops- the issue is somewhere within the switch system. If it continues to run with the two wires...

Then something still isn't correct- either current is not travelling on the earth side or the contacts are not being made through something appearing to be touching that isn't or something being broken that is not allowing the trigger contact to find earth/ground.

The leak got major before the top end burned up- one of the bottom bolts that hold the cylinder riser in place actually fell out of the saw and is missing!

Every possiblitity this one can run again with a couple of parts. But this one arrived today and was $10 cheaper. Was taken to a Stihl dealer about 200km up the road from me, they did a pressure test- called "leaking oil seals" and quoted $450 to repair. Owner said no to that and bought a...

The Husqvarna 350's suffer from three main problems. 1: Plastic manifold clip breaking 2: Loose engine pan to cylinder riser bolts 3: Muffler coming loose and burning top of oil tank. This saw suffered all three!

Ah, then my guess is you may have ben duped. I would be pulling the clutch apart first and checking that plus any play in the crankshaft- then I would be stripping everything I could off that bolts on to inspect the cases- including removing the gas tank.

Has the saw always been like this since you have owned it? Has it been dropped at any stage from a generous height? Has it been bar pinched in the cut and had a tumble? Has it been run over or a log rolled on it? Because the only way the "weight" of a clamped bar is causing the symptoms you...

Outside possibility- if the AV is that flogged out, the saw can be moving excessively between tank and crankcases- if there is a bare wire in the mix somewhere, it could be earthing out with the additional weight of the bar and chain. More likely perhaps is a failed bearing on the PTO (clutch)...

If the bar nuts are tight- the bar does not move- so the bar really has no bearing on the function of the engine. It is the correct type of bar, My best guess is something is binding within the PTO side of the saw- clutch, needle bearing area. You should NOT be able to "relieve" weight off the...

Um, no. Something is wrong. Does your bar have two adjuster holes per top and bottom of the bar slot? Is it missing one of the bar studs? Does it start with the bar and chain on if the chain brake is off? Need to take the cover off, take photos of the bar tail mount and the mount position on...

Some weeks back, I agreed to buy and paid for a sight unseen saw for the princely sum of $10 of our dollars- that equates out to USD$5:92 or similar. Yesterday I had the chance to collect it. Was advertised as....... It’s all there Team, did work with good compression. New carbie there also...

Oh okay- chainsaw rings are like that- they have a small gap and locator pin in the piston- note the scallop in each end to accommodate the locating pin? They need to be split there to allow for thermal expansion as the rings heat up and get bigger as the engine runs and warms up. You can and...