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As I said- I do not think I have ever come across a Stihl mount bar that was not either 0.050 or 0.063 gauge- your bars measure worn 0.063 gauge and if you can still find/read the bar etching- probably say 0.063 or 1.6mm on then near the stud slots. You can run your old chains if the drive...

According to most online references- the part numbers you quote for the bars- are both 0.063 gauge (if you mistyped 6221 and meant 5221?). However, if you have Carlton A2 chain it is indeed 0.058 chain, so you are loose gauging from the get go. As a rule- genuine Stihl bars come in 0.050 and...

If it starts and runs as a chainsaw should from cold, then say 10 minutes of run time it stops for no real reason, but if allowed to cool will start and run as normal for another 10 minutes but quit again. I would be assuming a coil that is breaking up internally- heat expanding the pack and...

Are you sure some well meaning previous owner has not put the saw back together with the addition of loctite?

Could be as simple as the incorrect plug and the threaded section protruded too far through the top of the cylinder and engages the piston before TDC in much the same way some piston stops do.

Yes it can, from memory the more open they are - the more advanced the timing. If i was feeling generous- I would go dig through the banana boxes of Stihl literature and find my 015L stuff.

Sometimes I worry about the sanity of some fellow Kiwi's come this time of the year. :ROFLMAO: But you have gone and done it now, so guess we better have a go. Id say there is naught wrong with your spark generation system if the tester lights up good and the plug has electrical impulses...

Two people cannot use one saw at the same time ;)

If it did a tank of straight fuel- you might want to check the con rod and bottom rod bearing fairly well. You might consider new main crank bearings and oil seals- but neither are run of the mill types for this wee gem and can be "interesting" so personally I leave well alone there unless the...

Nothing wrong with auto tune or mtronic saws. Makita are dropping gas fueled equipment like a hot brick- but the 7300-7900 are very good saws. Husqvarna 372XP is legendary, 572 an improvement on that. Stihl 400 C behaves like a 70cc saw when it is not and their 500i is a fantastic machine...

Well, it all depends on how messed up things are inside where the action happens. You are almost certainly going to need a new piston and rings- cylinder may or may not be savable- you just wont know till you tear it all apart and inspect each part. These are a well respected much coveted saw...

I am a KROIL believer- if you ever play with old neglected firearms- this stuff is THE go to- that and the correct fit screwdriver bit. It has many uses around the chainsaw repair bench- will even "feed" faded dry plastics better than WD40. Will it 100% work in this situation where a steel...

That is the fuel tank vent- it breathes to atmosphere for the tank interior through a one way valve and does not require any hose or line. There are only two fuel lines on this model- one from tank and filter to carb and the other is a return line to tank from the purge valve.

https://www.hlsproparts.com/searchresults.asp?Search=K095&Submit=

K095 bars will have that hole- as will same mount style bars branded for Makita. The Forum is sponsored by HL Supplies- wonder what they have?

Your little Homelite should fit a small mount Husqvarna type bar- bar mount for Oregon is K095. Do you know what chain gauge and pitch you are running? As the pitch will have to be matched to the drive sprocket off the crankshaft- gauge will have to be matched if you have spare chains already...

026 is an icon of a saw, treat it well now and it will last another 30 years.

Ether is a bad thing for two strokes- starting on that is a "dry" start and is basically the same as starting on straight gas- no oil and so no lubrication. Could be one of several things- weak fuel delivery- lowering compression from wear- or an air leak. Sounds like it might be time for a...

G I believe was a designation for 3/8 LP on these era of bars- what those numbers are telling you is the bar number code as per the tip fitted to it- ie: for G (3/8 LP), standard 3/8 and .404 pitch chain if they were all 0.050 gauge. Off the top of my head- B4 means little to me regarding Stihl...

"Spun" the engine with all 3 coils- by drill or recoil starter? The coils are likely aftermarket ones- assume nothing around the fact they are factory new- QC can be laxed at best. Are you 100% they are even correct for model? Ohm readings mean very little to me- a coil either works or it...