In my opinion, your original cylinder and piston are in good enough condition to run the saw just fine and replacing them (at some cost) will do nothing to cure your problem.
I will also say I have ZERO experience with canned premix and or ethanol fuel- we just don't have that here where I live. But could it be whatever you are trying to run it on is old, or contaminated fuel that how has a low octane rating?
How long since the saw was shouted a new or at least a thoroughly cleaned air filter? New fuel filter?
Wasted bearings can bind and slow a cranks rotation down- but usually by then they are causing other major problems like cage disintegration and major damage to the cylinder and piston- best way to check those was when the cylinder head was off.
Seized/damaged clutch needle bearing would usually display more as a constant drive to the clutch, or very erratic chain wobble and derailment.
Try stripping the entire clutch side off the saw- no chain, no bar, no clutch and see if running performance improves.
I am placing my money on bad fuel, bad fuel air mix, restricted air or restricted fuel delivery being your main problems- the saw runs- continues to run- so spark and compression are good, only thing left is fuel/air mix and possibly timing.
If you remove the air filter- are there fines of sawdust and dirt in the carb throat- start the saw without the air filter fitted- does it run better.
Trying to diagnose from afar is a guessing game and process of elimination and if those typing replies have stripped and rebuilt dozens of saws- we often skip over the obvious and mundane.