On my newly acquired old Poulan S25DA. Didn't run when I got it. Replaced the crumbling fuel line and rebuilt the carburetor and now it runs fine. Problem is that when I rev it up oil is flung out down the bar. I mean a streak in the floor. Is there a way to adjust the bar oil flow? It uses more oil than a Mazda RX7. I took the oiler system apart but nothing looked amiss or broken
Too Much Oil
- Thread starter 3crows
- Start date
At a guess- id say the oil pump rod is detached from the diaphragm or the rod is stuck in the bore of the piston.
Okay, if the rod catches during operation it will allow open flow.
I think there is mention in the manual for them of using a drill bit (NOT in a drill) to clean the bore out and allow it to function fully.
What oil are you using?
Is it just oiling well, or biffing out more than a tank of oil to a tank of gas?
I use old engine oil from my diesel tractor for bar oil on all my saws with no problems that I'm aware of. My one saw is a Husqvarna I bought in 1974 and is still going strong. When I started the Poulan and reved it up after a minute I started getting an oil streak on the shop floor. The more I reved it the more oil was thrown out, much more than I think is necessary to lubricate the bar and chain. I haven't put this saw to work yet other than to make a few trial cuts so I don't know how much oil to fuel it will use but at this point I think it will be way too much.
Each to their own- but as someone that repairs a lot of saws- I HATE the use of used oil as chain bar lube.
The "book" for these calls for 30wgt until the temperature drops below something like 10F and then go to 10wgt new standard clean oil.
These wee saws are constant oilers, the oil pump is crankcase pressure driven- not clutch driven, so they pump constantly while running. If the chain isnt moving (saw idle) then oil is still pumped into the delivery system- rev to engage the clutch and a whole heap of oil is slung out- off the throttle back to idle and the pump is still pumping oil under the side cover waiting for the next short rev up and next stream of excess oil.
The "book" for these calls for 30wgt until the temperature drops below something like 10F and then go to 10wgt new standard clean oil.
These wee saws are constant oilers, the oil pump is crankcase pressure driven- not clutch driven, so they pump constantly while running. If the chain isnt moving (saw idle) then oil is still pumped into the delivery system- rev to engage the clutch and a whole heap of oil is slung out- off the throttle back to idle and the pump is still pumping oil under the side cover waiting for the next short rev up and next stream of excess oil.
Interesting. Why would they put a manual oil button on a saw that continually lubs the chain? Maybe for us old guys who might forget to use the oiler button? So I'm pumping the button assuming that's what it's there for and creating an oil spill on my floor! I 'll have to do more cutting to see how much oil it uses. Thanks for the responses.
What kind of oil are you using?
Bar and chain oil contains additives to increase tackiness. Motor oil, new or used, will sling a lot more mess.
NOTE: There are 3 grades of bar oil: summer, all-season, and winter. Oddly, not every vendor labels their bar oil appropriately. I assume they would be considered all-season.
While I use what I consider to be the best two-stroke oil, I'm not that fussy about bar oil.
Bar and chain oil contains additives to increase tackiness. Motor oil, new or used, will sling a lot more mess.
NOTE: There are 3 grades of bar oil: summer, all-season, and winter. Oddly, not every vendor labels their bar oil appropriately. I assume they would be considered all-season.
While I use what I consider to be the best two-stroke oil, I'm not that fussy about bar oil.
From what I remember about these- they are automatic oilers with manual assist. So the manual pump is there for times when you need a bit more lubrication for a bar deep heavy cut. 2100 Husqvarna's have the same feature- but they are rated for up to a 60 inch bar.
Have you checked the specs for it on Mike Acres site? Some of these old dears have a link in the specs for an IPL PDF file.