Stubborn 460 Husky

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Good morning. I am trying to rebuild a previously parted out Husky 460. I really don't need another saw but took it on as a challenge. The saw obviously needed starter pawls, carb scews and linkage, bar, air cleaner, plug, etc. when I bought it and that work was done. It seemed to have fair compression but did not want to run after burning out the purge gas. Sometimes it will almost seem like it wants to run past the purge, it will idle and accelerate a couple of times then die. So, I started replacing parts. Put a new cheap ebay carb on it, replaced fuel lines and filter, checked the tank vent - no difference in running. Initially set the jets at 1.5 turns out, and tried +- .5 turns, minimal difference. Looked more closely in the intake port and noted a significant score in the piston, so replaced the piston and clyinder again with an ebay replacement - no difference in running. Replaced the new carb with the original carb - no difference. (At this point I am getting a better understanding why the original owner parted this saw.) Only thing left that I can think of is the coil. Is it possible that the coil could fail in this manner - start but not want to run? I did disconnect the kill wire - no difference.
 
The old parts chuck n hope game. This can get expensive fast if using OEM parts, get frustrating fast if using cheap parts and unless you stumble upon a cure for a single fault whilst doing it- can be a waste of money and time.
4## Husqvarnas were/are pretty lower grade consumer style saws- not well loved by those that fix/repair/rebuild old saws for a hobby.
First guess would be lines installed incorrectly on purge valve- sucking fuel from tank and trying to push it through the carb- instead of pulling air from and then fuel through the carb.
Next guess would be an air leak- possibly around the clamshell joint or main crank oil seals.

Piston scored on the intake side???? Usually mechanical failure or a huge ingress of dirt through the intake side of the system does that- if scored on intake side only.
You need minimum 90psi compression for a small 2 stroke to run- and you cannot use a general automotive tester to test it then expect a true reading.

Thing is, you can take an unassembled pile of brand new parts and put it together like a 3D jigsaw and unless certain specifics are done 100% correctly- it wont run.
Now you can give your best guess at what these issues might be- or you can perform certain tests to confirm or deny plausibility of a theory.
First thing I would do to your plastic Husqvarna is pressure and vacuum test the engine. Well maybe after swapping the purge valve lines to see if that helped first.
 
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