I noticed that the bar was not getting oil. I cleaned out the oil port on the power head and the oil hole on the bar itself. Cleaned the bar guide all around . There is plenty of oil coming from the pump but little if any going to the bar itself.
Stihl 021 No Oil At Bar ?
- Thread starter jpsbgt
- Start date
Have you recently fitted a new bar and chain?
"plenty of oil coming from the pump" does that mean from the pump itself- or plenty of oil is making it to the gallery of the bar pad?
"plenty of oil coming from the pump" does that mean from the pump itself- or plenty of oil is making it to the gallery of the bar pad?
Hi Bob thanks for your help. No it’s the same bar that I have been using for years. There is plenty of oil coming out of the port when I have the side cover off and run the engine. Reinstall the bar and chain and little oil is seen while revving the engine. I cleaned the oil channel well along with the bar . I made sure the oil hole on bar is clean also. When I noticed no oil on bar I removed the cover again and it eas covered in oil ? Weird that this just happened out of thin air ?
So we can assume correct bar tail and the oil entry to the bar lines up with the slot in the bar pad of the oil gallery.
UNLESS the chain is that worn in the rivets that it has elongated enough to move the oil hole in the bar past the length of the slot in the bar pad and they no longer align.
Its about all I can come up with if all else is clean and clear and the same as it used to be when the system worked.
When the bar and chain are fitted with the clutch cover off and the chain tensioned correctly, is the chain adjuster that far forward there is little to no travel left?
UNLESS the chain is that worn in the rivets that it has elongated enough to move the oil hole in the bar past the length of the slot in the bar pad and they no longer align.
Its about all I can come up with if all else is clean and clear and the same as it used to be when the system worked.
When the bar and chain are fitted with the clutch cover off and the chain tensioned correctly, is the chain adjuster that far forward there is little to no travel left?
Okay, new chain is a change that happened from working correctly- to not working correctly.
So, is the chain an incorrect fitment?
Rather than the chain being too long and the oil delivery hole in the bar being too far forward to align with the slot in the bar pad- is it too short and the hole in the bar is being held further back and still not aligning with the slot in the bar pad?
Can you compare the new chain to an old chain length wise?
Is the bar 0.050 gauge and well worn between the rails and the new chain 0.043 gauge?
So, is the chain an incorrect fitment?
Rather than the chain being too long and the oil delivery hole in the bar being too far forward to align with the slot in the bar pad- is it too short and the hole in the bar is being held further back and still not aligning with the slot in the bar pad?
Can you compare the new chain to an old chain length wise?
Is the bar 0.050 gauge and well worn between the rails and the new chain 0.043 gauge?
Back in January when I installed the new chain everything worked perfectly. I cut a trailer full of slab wood given to me by a neighbor. No oiling issues during the time. I have had this saw since 92 and never had an issue. I will confirm that the chain is correct for saw and get back.
Might be time for a new bar- probably a new drive spur or sprocket.
Good idea the refresh the lot on those wee consumer type saws at the same time.
Photos will help.
Good idea the refresh the lot on those wee consumer type saws at the same time.
Photos will help.
If the worm drive was rubbish- there would be little to no oil making it to the bar pad gallery. (post #4)
A piece of starter rope from an old damaged piece of equipment can be used as a piston stop- or any nylon rope at a push. The piston must be above the exhaust port before you feed the rope in as otherwise it can be fed through the port and cause damage to, or get caught between piston and cylinder jamming the rope and locking the saw up.
If indeed little to no oil is pumping from the bar pad gallery with the bar and chain removed, then yes suspect the worm drive gear or activating arm.
A piece of starter rope from an old damaged piece of equipment can be used as a piston stop- or any nylon rope at a push. The piston must be above the exhaust port before you feed the rope in as otherwise it can be fed through the port and cause damage to, or get caught between piston and cylinder jamming the rope and locking the saw up.
If indeed little to no oil is pumping from the bar pad gallery with the bar and chain removed, then yes suspect the worm drive gear or activating arm.
Thanks Bob ! I have to go to town tomorrow anyway so I will let the Stihl guy remove the drum. I read about using rope but will pass on that. I cleaned out the oil reservoir yesterday with a bit of diesel to see if that would help. Filled it up with red bar oil. Upon running the saw for a few minutes you still see no sign of oil on the bar. I even opened up the oil hole on the bar. Nothing. Will update tomorrow afternoon.