My saw don't run good- can you have a look.

[Bob Hedgecutter]

One of my pet hates and most often requested repairs.
Someone will show up with a saw, maybe 20-30 years old that has never been serviced in it's lifetime thus far- probably never had the recoil cover removed unless a rope broke.
Here is the latest- was running rough, hard start and intermittent spark.

 

[huskihl]

Ultrasonic tank ftw. Dip and rinse lol

 

[Fabz]

 

[huskihl]

I see the dumbass from ny was here.

And then deleted his post again

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Ultrasonic tank ftw. Dip and rinse lol

Yeah sure, if you bother with them fancy ultra sonic things- but I was meaning before they make it to me in this state.
I know for a fact the owners of these saws all have air compressors and blow off guns- but they never seem to get used on their saws, rather wait until something breaks and pay to get it fixed.

 

[Fabz]

I’ve a harbor freight ultra ... so so with carbs (the reason why I paid $80) , sometimes the debris gets into the bowels of the carb and becomes a permanent resident almost necessitating the need for a new oem unit despite a proper rebuild. Anyhoo that piece needs elbow grease not ultrasonic cleaning! I simply refuse to even work on a saw that dirty and that’s that

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I find one of those 6"steel rulers work pretty well as a scraper to remove the bulk of the gunk, followed by an old paint brush and plenty of kerosene, sit for a bit and then hit with compressed air.
In all fairness- this particular saw, the seals are that well gone that there has been a fair bit of oil exiting the case and accumulating around the flywheel- collecting the fine dust from a dull chain- but I see this a lot on farmer type saws that still have viable seals, often to the point the air entry points to the recoil cover are near fully blocked.

 

[Fabz]

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

That saw looks clean compared to some I get in. You can still see the coil and contacts on OP pic.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

That saw looks clean compared to some I get in. You can still see the coil and contacts on OP pic.

View attachment 1116 View attachment 1117

No, that Stihl is about on par with the old Husqvarna.
Only reason you can see the coil body is because I have pushed one section of the gunge off with my left thumb before the photo- same with the coil contacts, note one side of the lower contact is still encrusted.
After cleaning and arriving at a parts needed list, the owner of the old 51 has decided not to continue with repairs

 

[Nutball]

That saw looks clean compared to some I get in. You can still see the coil and contacts on OP pic.

View attachment 1116 View attachment 1117

Mac 10-10 are some of the worst if I'm not mistaken.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Mac 10-10 are some of the worst if I'm not mistaken.

Thankfully we don't see too many of those way over here.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Mac 10-10 are some of the worst if I'm not mistaken.

This was a stihl. I dont see many macs here thank goodness.

Last one I think years back. Guy I had worked with bought this one new.

 

[EggShooterist]

One of my pet hates and most often requested repairs.
Someone will show up with a saw, maybe 20-30 years old that has never been serviced in it's lifetime thus far- probably never had the recoil cover removed unless a rope broke.
Here is the latest- was running rough, hard start and intermittent spark.

View attachment 1105 View attachment 1106 View attachment 1107

Yuk. Some of the vintage saws in my collection were like that.

 

[jasent]

Air compressor is always the first tool on the job

 

[EggShooterist]

Yeah sure, if you bother with them fancy ultra sonic things- but I was meaning before they make it to me in this state.
I know for a fact the owners of these saws all have air compressors and blow off guns- but they never seem to get used on their saws, rather wait until something breaks and pay to get it fixed.

How I've dealt with these type of messes...

I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner but I've seen them in action at my buddy's small engine repair shop. They would take that off the saw you pictured.

I use something to scrape off what I can then I use one of two methods for getting the rest. One, if the saw is taken completely apart, I have an 18 qt roaster oven that I put super clean in diluted with water and heat it to a couple hundred degrees for an hour or so before checking. The hour is usually plenty of time.
Option two is if the saw is fully assembled. I use a solvent spray wand attached to my air line and I use Crown brand camp fuel as the cleaner. Its much cheaper than the comparable amount of carb or brake cleaner and it does not harm the paint, plastic or rubber. It also dries quickly without an oily residue like the mineral spirits I previously used and isn't foul smelling. I use a gallon or two a year of the camp fuel for cleaning.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

How I've dealt with these type of messes...

I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner but I've seen them in action at my buddy's small engine repair shop. They would take that off the saw you pictured.

I use something to scrape off what I can then I use one of two methods for getting the rest. One, if the saw is taken completely apart, I have an 18 qt roaster oven that I put super clean in diluted with water and heat it to a couple hundred degrees for an hour or so before checking. The hour is usually plenty of time.
Option two is if the saw is fully assembled. I use a solvent spray wand attached to my air line and I use Crown brand camp fuel as the cleaner. Its much cheaper than the comparable amount of carb or brake cleaner and it does not harm the paint, plastic or rubber. It also dries quickly without an oily residue like the mineral spirits I previously used and isn't foul smelling. I use a gallon or two a year of the camp fuel for cleaning.

Yeah, if you read back through all the irrelevant stuff on this thread, that you yourself were part of, you will read somewhere that I use a similar system to your non oven routine using scrapes, kerosene and compressed air.
However I do not recommend using air to blow off kerosene (or camp fuel probably) in an enclosed workshop if there is a point of ignition within the workshop.

 

[EggShooterist]

Yeah, if you read back through all the irrelevant stuff on this thread, that you yourself were part of, you will read somewhere that I use a similar system to your non oven routine using scrapes, kerosene and compressed air.
However I do not recommend using air to blow off kerosene (or camp fuel probably) in an enclosed workshop if there is a point of ignition within the workshop.

I did read it all. I was sharing my way. It also should go without saying that we should use the solvents / air in a well ventilated area. I do it outside as I'm not a fan of breathing any of that in.

Also, telling me I was part of the irrelevant postings is like telling a fat guy he's fat. Pretty sure he knows that already. Enjoy your day.

 

[YWPD]

I see the dumbass from ny was here.

And then deleted his post again

I deleted his post because it looked like it was intended to start an argument. I was away for awhile and see that a lot of childish bs did indeed come of it. You both have solid input when you stay on topic and out of each other's business, so please ignore each other on this website in the future.