Dawgs, Dogs, Spikes- whatever you want to call them are not entirely necessary on all saws, almost cosmetic on some, but on bigger saws (especially the saw in question here) are very handy to have fitted.
The Jonsered 2094 I recently posted about, arrived with neither internal or external spikes as would have been fitted at factory at manufacture.
Being what it is, nearly the entire front face of the saw is muffler. Using the saw without spikes, bucking big wood with bar buried means you A: damage the muffler, B: Transfer a lot of heat to bark and C: Stop a lot of heat leaving the saw, none of which are good.
Parts for these are uncommon over here, so my answer is to cut sets of spikes out of old saw blades (10 inch TCT bench saw blade in this instance).
It is a whole lot easier if you have a template to work from, some saws like this one are a pretty precise fit to a case rebate, or there can be a lot of trial and error fitting.
As it is, I have another 2094 that came with the original inner and has an ex sawblade outer, so I removed the inner from that saw and used it as my template.
First step is to drill the mounting holes, drill one, fit a temporary bolt and nut, holding the template to the new material- drill the others, then mark around the outer edges of the template, remove it and use a cutting disc to rough out the new one.
The area between the spikes can be hard to cut without a small tool, ie: Dremel or similar. You can see here a small impression has been made with a 4" cutting wheel, as long as the rest of the spike it cut free, the material can be held in a vice on the "cut" line and a couple of hammer blows will crack the steel at the desired line.
I then fit the template back to the new stock and grind close to finished.
To end up with this
Then file finish, remove template, and deburr.
Try for fit
Are they perfect- heck no!
Are they functional- very much so.
The Jonsered 2094 I recently posted about, arrived with neither internal or external spikes as would have been fitted at factory at manufacture.
Being what it is, nearly the entire front face of the saw is muffler. Using the saw without spikes, bucking big wood with bar buried means you A: damage the muffler, B: Transfer a lot of heat to bark and C: Stop a lot of heat leaving the saw, none of which are good.
Parts for these are uncommon over here, so my answer is to cut sets of spikes out of old saw blades (10 inch TCT bench saw blade in this instance).
It is a whole lot easier if you have a template to work from, some saws like this one are a pretty precise fit to a case rebate, or there can be a lot of trial and error fitting.
As it is, I have another 2094 that came with the original inner and has an ex sawblade outer, so I removed the inner from that saw and used it as my template.
First step is to drill the mounting holes, drill one, fit a temporary bolt and nut, holding the template to the new material- drill the others, then mark around the outer edges of the template, remove it and use a cutting disc to rough out the new one.
The area between the spikes can be hard to cut without a small tool, ie: Dremel or similar. You can see here a small impression has been made with a 4" cutting wheel, as long as the rest of the spike it cut free, the material can be held in a vice on the "cut" line and a couple of hammer blows will crack the steel at the desired line.
I then fit the template back to the new stock and grind close to finished.
To end up with this
Then file finish, remove template, and deburr.
Try for fit
Are they perfect- heck no!
Are they functional- very much so.
