I can not find any information about my saw. Nothing to show me the oiling system. Nothing to show me what parts i may need or how to install them. It does not have a mechanical oiler it has something to do with the crankcase pressure. I know i must sound pretty ignorant of this and I am. Lol i have called everywhere Husky gives me information for the husky 365. They are not the same saw. Can anyone help me with this. Does anyone have a maintenance manual or a service manual about this.
Information about the chain oiler on my Jonsered 365
- Thread starter JohnnyReb
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- 365 jonsered oiler system
Yes- we are talking about a small top handle chainsaw of 35cc not 65cc.
Not well known now and not featured much on the Internet,
Basically they are the same kind of thing as the Frontieer models that come in every colour of the rainbow and branded with near every saw makers name- they called the Husqvarna on a Husky 35.
Just like the Poulan micro top handle saws, the oiler works kind of similar to the pump off a carb- with impulse from the crankcase and a diaphragm. Parts will be no longer available- you might be able to strip and clean out what is there- blow back with compressed air to get any blockages out of the system, clean out the tank and pick up of debris, make new gaskets- put it back together and hope with fingers crossed.
Not well known now and not featured much on the Internet,
Basically they are the same kind of thing as the Frontieer models that come in every colour of the rainbow and branded with near every saw makers name- they called the Husqvarna on a Husky 35.
Just like the Poulan micro top handle saws, the oiler works kind of similar to the pump off a carb- with impulse from the crankcase and a diaphragm. Parts will be no longer available- you might be able to strip and clean out what is there- blow back with compressed air to get any blockages out of the system, clean out the tank and pick up of debris, make new gaskets- put it back together and hope with fingers crossed.
Thank you for your quick response. You are right about no information to be found. I have looked everywhere to try and get information and its not out there. I was hoping someone would have a service manual or something similar .
The saw was running perfectly i did put in a Walbro carburetor gasket kit and adjusted the carburetor. It really started up with 3 pulls everytime i used it with a very sharp chain it really cut wood. Then i saw the oiler was not putting oil on the bar and it was heating up the bar and the chain. So i tore it down thinking i would fix it no problem. However I had never seen an oiling system like this one. I have only seen the newer style mechanical oilers. Well i will just do the best I can putting it back together. Thank you again for your response.
The saw was running perfectly i did put in a Walbro carburetor gasket kit and adjusted the carburetor. It really started up with 3 pulls everytime i used it with a very sharp chain it really cut wood. Then i saw the oiler was not putting oil on the bar and it was heating up the bar and the chain. So i tore it down thinking i would fix it no problem. However I had never seen an oiling system like this one. I have only seen the newer style mechanical oilers. Well i will just do the best I can putting it back together. Thank you again for your response.
There will be information out there on impulse oilers and it will all apply as they all work on the same principals.
What exactly is happening?
No oil leaking, but no oil getting to bar pad?
Or, no oil getting to bar pad, but oil leaking out the bottom of the saw?
You MIGHT get away with a quick dirty fix, like draining the oil, filling the tank with kerosene, swill it around a lot and dump it out- repeat, add more strained or clean kerosene back into the oil tank and start the saw- see if it pumps that through.
Kerosene or even straight diesel is pretty good at cleaning out gunk and lubricating stuck stuff.
What exactly is happening?
No oil leaking, but no oil getting to bar pad?
Or, no oil getting to bar pad, but oil leaking out the bottom of the saw?
You MIGHT get away with a quick dirty fix, like draining the oil, filling the tank with kerosene, swill it around a lot and dump it out- repeat, add more strained or clean kerosene back into the oil tank and start the saw- see if it pumps that through.
Kerosene or even straight diesel is pretty good at cleaning out gunk and lubricating stuck stuff.
Hang on a wee minute- I just fact checked myself.
According to Acres site- the 365 has an automatic WORM DRIVE driven oil pump- there were other models of a similar shape (Lil'Jon's?) that were Frontieer's in red and black- the 365 was apparently made in Sweden not Canada.
So if we go off of that- there must be a worm driven pump under the clutch driven off of the crank.
Looking like this-
According to Acres site- the 365 has an automatic WORM DRIVE driven oil pump- there were other models of a similar shape (Lil'Jon's?) that were Frontieer's in red and black- the 365 was apparently made in Sweden not Canada.
So if we go off of that- there must be a worm driven pump under the clutch driven off of the crank.
Looking like this-
Are you able to photograph the saw and add the photograph here?
Just to clear up what we are talking about- is it a rear handled saw or a top handle saw?
Jonsereds are my "thing" but I must admit- some of them I do not bother with or have ever cared for.
However, I seem to remember there being a 365 not dissimilar to the 370 model.
Just to clear up what we are talking about- is it a rear handled saw or a top handle saw?
Jonsereds are my "thing" but I must admit- some of them I do not bother with or have ever cared for.
However, I seem to remember there being a 365 not dissimilar to the 370 model.
It is a rear handled saw and i do not have anything that resembles the oiler you have in your photo.iI am going to attach several photos of my saw showing the oil tank from inside the tank and outside the tank.
Attachments
The top left of the inside of the tank is the oil side. You can see a hole at the very top that is a vent I think. The larger hole in the bottom center of the oil tank is where i removed a mesh screen that looks excactly like one you would find in a carburetor.
Now if you look at the photo of the backside of the tank you see 4 bolt holes that the head bolts go thru the front of the tank cover thru the tank into the other half. The photo that shows the gasket that fits over the bolt holes and has a small vent hole in the bottom. You can see that there is a outline of oil passages in the gasket. And. Will include a photo of the passage ways in the half of the enging itself.
Now if you look at the photo of the backside of the tank you see 4 bolt holes that the head bolts go thru the front of the tank cover thru the tank into the other half. The photo that shows the gasket that fits over the bolt holes and has a small vent hole in the bottom. You can see that there is a outline of oil passages in the gasket. And. Will include a photo of the passage ways in the half of the enging itself.
To me after looking and thinking about this. It must be an engine impulse oiling system. I am not certain as i have never seen one like this.
The oil never reached the hole that feeds directly to the chain and bar. It was pouring out the bottom of the saw a massive leak. I have never taken this saw apart before. However the head bolts were loose and the saw seemed very loose. So i think 30 years are so riding in my truck when hunting or camping plus sitting in the garage for thevlas many years it just got loose. So i took it apart tosee what was the problem and came upon something i have no idea how it works.
The oil never reached the hole that feeds directly to the chain and bar. It was pouring out the bottom of the saw a massive leak. I have never taken this saw apart before. However the head bolts were loose and the saw seemed very loose. So i think 30 years are so riding in my truck when hunting or camping plus sitting in the garage for thevlas many years it just got loose. So i took it apart tosee what was the problem and came upon something i have no idea how it works.
what would you recommend for the torque spec of the head bolts they have a 5/16 inch head size and the diameter is .165 the bolts are steel and the block is aluminum. I would hate to strip them out. I have no idea what it would be.
Cannot say I have seen similar- but yes it is impulse driven.
I was thinking a saw same as the Partner 350, not unlike the Jonsered 370- but you show what is perhaps a rear handle version of the Jonsered 361?
Bit like the MS 200 is the rear handle version of the 200T from Stihl.
In my way of thinking, there should be a brass check valve or duckbill on the inlet from the crankcase- so pressure can build in the tank, but not return to the crankcase- so pressurized air forces the oil through the system and so bar oil CANNOT enter the crankcase. .
If oil is leaking out the bottom of the saw- something is wrong in either gaskets or seals- unless it is syphoning the tank dry out of the oil hole in the bar pad.
In a pressure system, first port of call for an air leak would be the seal under the oil tank filler lid- but I still think there needs to be some kind of one way valve from crankcase to tank.
I was thinking a saw same as the Partner 350, not unlike the Jonsered 370- but you show what is perhaps a rear handle version of the Jonsered 361?
Bit like the MS 200 is the rear handle version of the 200T from Stihl.
In my way of thinking, there should be a brass check valve or duckbill on the inlet from the crankcase- so pressure can build in the tank, but not return to the crankcase- so pressurized air forces the oil through the system and so bar oil CANNOT enter the crankcase. .
If oil is leaking out the bottom of the saw- something is wrong in either gaskets or seals- unless it is syphoning the tank dry out of the oil hole in the bar pad.
In a pressure system, first port of call for an air leak would be the seal under the oil tank filler lid- but I still think there needs to be some kind of one way valve from crankcase to tank.