Husqvarna 562xp

[mason_McQueen]

I have a husqvarna 562xp. I was thinking about drilling holes in the baffle plate and an extra hole at the stock exit. I’ve read all kinds of mixed results from the AT not re tuning itself, and just making it louder with no gain. And I’ve read others where the saw ran cooler. AT rebooted and it was running strong. Does anyone have any info?

 

[Labfab]

I have a husqvarna 562xp. I was thinking about drilling holes in the baffle plate and an extra hole at the stock exit. I’ve read all kinds of mixed results from the AT not re tuning itself, and just making it louder with no gain. And I’ve read others where the saw ran cooler. AT rebooted and it was running strong. Does anyone have any info?

I've never had any issues with getting the AT to compensate on them. These saws need all the help they can get to run cooler and the muffler is a big place that keeps heat from getting out. I've done the mufflers different ways but if I was to do one today it would be to start from the engine and drill/grind through the baffle then open the exit hole up to desired size all from the back. Will still look factory and allow you to retain the screen if so desired. I would also check the metering lever height in the carb as they are known to be set low from the factory. Can leave them in a lean state when modifying.

 

[mason_McQueen]

I've never had any issues with getting the AT to compensate on them. These saws need all the help they can get to run cooler and the muffler is a big place that keeps heat from getting out. I've done the mufflers different ways but if I was to do one today it would be to start from the engine and drill/grind through the baffle then open the exit hole up to desired size all from the back. Will still look factory and allow you to retain the screen if so desired. I would also check the metering lever height in the carb as they are known to be set low from the factory. Can leave them in a lean state when modifying.

Thanks! I’m not trying to be difficult here. I have never had the carburetor off that saw(or anything like it) how simple is that to fix? Mine seems to run lean, I’m surprised it has lasted as long as it has lol

 

[Labfab]

Thanks! I’m not trying to be difficult here. I have never had the carburetor off that saw(or anything like it) how simple is that to fix? Mine seems to run lean, I’m surprised it has lasted as long as it has lol

They run on the ragged edge of being lean, for emissions reasons I'm sure. Well, there are easier saws to pull the carbs off of but all in all if you are mechanical at all it shouldn't be a problem for you.

 

[mason_McQueen]

How do you set the metering lever height once I get in the carb? I know I can get in there, I just take my time with tedious things like the small screws and such. I can be a bit ham handed, and I realize that so I use hemistats and a magnet for fishing out things I drop lol

 

[Labfab]

How do you set the metering lever height once I get in the carb? I know I can get in there, I just take my time with tedious things like the small screws and such. I can be a bit ham handed, and I realize that so I use hemistats and a magnet for fishing out things I drop lol

That's the best thing to do. Take pictures, make notes, mark things, whatever it takes for you. Once you have accessed the lever, you literally just bend it to desired height. I can take some pictures of one set correctly for you if needed.

 

[mason_McQueen]

That would be extremely helpful!!! Thanks!

 

[BayouCountryPowerSaws]

That's the best thing to do. Take pictures, make notes, mark things, whatever it takes for you. Once you have accessed the lever, you literally just bend it to desired height. I can take some pictures of one set correctly for you if needed.

You may want to make a small video of how to bend those levers too, it can be a little tricky to make sure it bends in the right spot.

 

[Labfab]

 

[mason_McQueen]

Thanks man!!! I’ll definitely get on that soon!

 

[Wonka13]

I need you to do a rebuild video on a Tilly 296A. Great video!!

 

[Labfab]

I need you to do a rebuild video on a Tilly 296A. Great video!!

I have one of those on my 7900 but it's new lol

 

[mason_McQueen]

Thanks man!!! I’ll definitely get on that soon!

I dug into mine this evening but it got too dark to see well so I’ll pick back up on it tomorrow. My carb is an EL46 if it makes any difference

 

[Labfab]

I dug into mine this evening but it got too dark to see well so I’ll pick back up on it tomorrow. My carb is an EL46 if it makes any difference

Heard that. Won't make any difference, el44/el46/el48 will all look the same. That was just what I had kicking around to show you with.

 

[mason_McQueen]

Heard that. Won't make any difference, el44/el46/el48 will all look the same. That was just what I had kicking around to show you with.

 

[mason_McQueen]

I got my metering lever set. It just barely needed bending upwards. Got 3 out of 4 muffler bolts out and one was a struggle all the way out I’m hoping I can clean the threads up in the cylinder and it’ll go back ok. I probably won’t be removing the muffler again for a while!

 

[Labfab]

I got my metering lever set. It just barely needed bending upwards. Got 3 out of 4 muffler bolts out and one was a struggle all the way out I’m hoping I can clean the threads up in the cylinder and it’ll go back ok. I probably won’t be removing the muffler again for a while!

Even that little bit of bending makes a big difference. Oof, yeah hopefully that'll clean up alright. You got options for thread repairs if needed.

 

[mason_McQueen]

Good Ol helicoil ! I hope and pray I don’t need it!

 

[tacotodd]

Make sure that you use anti seize on the threads but a star type of lock washer. You DON’T want any bolts vibrating loose where they end up in some sort of alloys or aluminum. It wallows out the threads and THAT leads to a much more expensive repair.

 

[mason_McQueen]

I had planned on using anti-size. Good idea about the lock washers!