Husqvarna 141 Repair Advice?

[wrecks]

I have a Husqvarna 141 that is about 20 years old. It has only received occasional use over the years. I grabbed it a few days ago to cut up a downed tree and it wouldn't start. I had stored it empty and was trying it with brand new fresh pre-mixed gas. I was able to squirt some gas in the throttle body and it would turn over and run for a few seconds but it wouldn't start on its own. I pulled the carburetor, replaced the diaphragms with OEM parts and also replaced the gas line which was visibly hard, brittle, and cracked (I assumed this was the problem but since I had the kit I cleaned up the carb and replaced the diaphragms while in there). After buttoning everything up I was all convinced I was going to have success, but it still wouldn't run. Now, even worse, it won't even turn over with gas squirt directly into the throttle body. Does anybody have suggestions one what I may have done wrong to make the situation worse?

This is a great little saw, but it probably isn't worth it to have my local shop do a repair.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

What happens if you bypass the carb and dribble some fuel mix in the plug hole then replace the spark plug?
My guess is something simple to do with fuel delivery.
Something to do with the disassembly of the carb and refitting of new parts- something in an incorrect order or incorrect orientation.
Or the in tank fuel filter is completely blocked.

 

[Cskyline]

Does your saw have a external pulse line or is it ported thru carb? Anyways make sure you are getting pulse to diaphragm

 

[MadKaw]

Or it's as simple as a bad can of premix. Some people report very spotty results.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Or it's as simple as a bad can of premix. Some people report very spotty results.

Is your gas really THAT bad over there?

 

[wrecks]

Okay, an update, I pulled the spark plug and confirmed that I'm getting spark. I also dribbled a little gas into the plug opening, put the plug back, and it still didn't fire up. Like I mentioned, when I tried gas through the throttle body prior to replacing the diaphragms in the carb it did in fact fire up briefly but doesn't now. Also, I'm fairly certain that fuel is being drawn out of the tank as I replaced the entire fuel line so it was initially empty, but now when I pulled the line from the carburetor to check it was full of fuel.

Does your saw have a external pulse line or is it ported thru carb? Anyways make sure you are getting pulse to diaphragm

If I understand correctly how this works the pulse diaphragm is built into one side of the carburetor and that is one of the diaphragms I replaced.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Okay, so you have confirmed spark- confirmed fuel getting to carb, if it is indeed getting through the carb to the combustion chamber, should cause flooding.
So, the next suspect is a general lack of compression- pull the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port and see if it is all scored up.
Or, remove the plug again- tip about a teaspoon full of straight mix oil down the hole, swill it about a bit, replace the plug and try to start the saw- report back what happens.

 

[wrecks]

Okay, so you have confirmed spark- confirmed fuel getting to carb, if it is indeed getting through the carb to the combustion chamber, should cause flooding.
So, the next suspect is a general lack of compression- pull the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port and see if it is all scored up.
Or, remove the plug again- tip about a teaspoon full of straight mix oil down the hole, swill it about a bit, replace the plug and try to start the saw- report back what happens.

Just to confirm, it won't hurt anything to put mix oil directly into the piston chamber?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Just to confirm, it won't hurt anything to put mix oil directly into the piston chamber?

Will do no harm what so ever.

 

[wrecks]

The saga continues. I didn't have any mix to put directly into the piston chamber, but when I looked down in there for scoring I did see a small piece or black rubber gasket that was floating around. I'm sure that wasn't helping anything so I carefully extracted it with some long tweezers. I also dumped all the gas from the tank to do this since I turned it upside down. Before refilling the tank I tried it a few times and it actually turned over and ran until the gas ran out of the line. I then refilled the tank, and tried again. It didn't start. So I pulled the plug and it was wet with a drip of gas on it. So I suspect it is actually getting flooded. Does that sound correct? If so, how do I adjust that down?

 

[MadKaw]

Is your gas really THAT bad over there?

I don't use premix. Just that I've heard from people who have had problems... saws that don't start; put fresh fuel/different fuel in and the saw starts.
Not saying it's the answer, but I am a firm believer in trying the things that are easy to try first. Can't get much easier than changing fuel. If that doesn't work, look at the harder stuff.
Even if you think the probability of the fuel being the cause is low, the simplicity is there.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The saga continues. I didn't have any mix to put directly into the piston chamber, but when I looked down in there for scoring I did see a small piece or black rubber gasket that was floating around. I'm sure that wasn't helping anything so I carefully extracted it with some long tweezers. I also dumped all the gas from the tank to do this since I turned it upside down. Before refilling the tank I tried it a few times and it actually turned over and ran until the gas ran out of the line. I then refilled the tank, and tried again. It didn't start. So I pulled the plug and it was wet with a drip of gas on it. So I suspect it is actually getting flooded. Does that sound correct? If so, how do I adjust that down?

Okay, possibly you have folded and pinched a bit of the intake manifold or a gasket when reinstalling the carb- blocking something off, or causing an air leak.
With the plug out the saw held upside down, pull the rope- does raw fuel splutter out the plug hole?

You do not HAVE to use two stroke oil to up the compression- any motor type oil will do the trick, heck I have used chain bar lube at a pinch. The idea is the oil coats the cylinder wall and "fills" any voids allowing compression to build to combustion levels.

The black rubbery bits are a bit of a worry- old fuel line innards blocking stuff up, old carb components, needle valve seat (if carb was blown out with compressed air).
Still has me thinking incorrect carb assembly order- easy to do.

 

[Bryan Newton]

Is the metering lever adjusted correctly in the carburetor

 

[Cskyline]

Bryan that’s a good question he did say he changed the diagram in carb

 

[wrecks]

Is the metering lever adjusted correctly in the carburetor

I did not adjust that (frankly don’t know what it is). I’ll do some Google research on that.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I did not adjust that (frankly don’t know what it is). I’ll do some Google research on that.

Okay, if you don't know what that is- odds are pretty good you might have some human error involved with the carb reassembly as I have suggested all along the way.
Here is a link to an exploded diagram of the carb that should be fitted to your saw.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/husqvarna/chain-saws/136-1998-09/carburetor-parts-walbro-wt-239-239-epa

Pay particular attention to the order in which things like gasket and diaphragm are fitted to the carb body and if the diaphragm you used has the protrusion from the centre with a rebate cut into it- it is designed for the fork of the metering lever to slot into that rebate.

 

[Bryan Newton]

I can post pics tomorrow on how to adjust it

 

[Bryan Newton]

Here are pics of how to adjust metering level in carb and a diagram of carb break down
I'M sorry for the glare but i hoe this helps