Homelite 33cc NO SPARK

[Wild Bill]

The only thing I have not replaced are the two wires from the kill switch, they look almost new, but I think I will make new ones and see what happens. They make up a bundle of two from the coils ground wire and the coils kill wire, then into a shrink wrap and then thru a grommet and into the base of the saw and then out of the wrap just before the kill switch itself. They might possibly be shorted together. The coil is new, I have 2 new and one old, the spark plug is new and works, tested it on another unit, The flywheel was removed, cleaned and reinstalled, all grounds were clean and shiny. What could possible keep the coil from firing the spark plug.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Just disconnect BOTH wires from the coil system and THEN test for spark, preferably with an inline spark tester and by pulling the recoil starter rope- not a drill.
Eliminate variables and test as the saw is meant to run. Those two wires do nothing but connect ground from the coil to switch and then the live side to ground when the switch is set to off- removing both from the coil end will not halt spark.

If saw sparks with both wires removed- then there is a fault in the switch or tone/both of the wires.
If saw still will not produce a spark- suspect the HT lead and the connection to coil and the other end off the line- plug to HT lead- if that all checks out- then there is a fault in coil pack or flywheel.

 

[Wild Bill]

I fully understand what you are telling me.....

I have spun the engine with all three coils attached and with the coil ground wires attached and also unattached and all tests gave the same thing, NO SPARK

Each coil has the HT lead built into it and the HT plug end boot is factory new..

The two new coils have low ohms reading and the old coil has a much higher ohms reading. I recorded all the readings if you wish to see them.

What can possibly go wrong with the flywheel??

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

"Spun" the engine with all 3 coils- by drill or recoil starter?

The coils are likely aftermarket ones- assume nothing around the fact they are factory new- QC can be laxed at best. Are you 100% they are even correct for model?

Ohm readings mean very little to me- a coil either works or it doesnt.

Mainly regarding magnets and key shearing is where flywheels can go wrong- shattered magnets or magnets that switch polarity from being dropped or banged hard- a sheared key will still produce a spark- just at the incorrect timing.

 

[fast eddie]

Sure sounds like putting on a known good flywheel is the next step. I have an old Homelite XL2 with no spark I was about to post on. So there's nuthing under the flywheel, points, pick up coil? Wire that goes from coil to area behind flywheel goes to what, then??? Heh...pulled flywheel whatayknow, points! One final edit to say, cleaned points, and it fired right up after at least 20yrs, didn't even clean carb!