Aside from a sheared key or visible damage, is there any way to test a flywheel on a Stihl saw other than it having a strong attraction to a screwdriver? It would seem a flywheel is essentially bullet proof if properly installed. I am having spark issues and have done all the seemingly necessary tests and gap adjustments, module change out, etc. I also understand ignition modules can test good or bad intermittently.
Flywheel Testing
- Thread starter Bigbear
- Start date
Being the correct flywheel for the model also helps- like the 064/066 series, there are about 30 possible combinations of flywheel and coil for those- assemble a saw from a parts bin and you can have all sorts of headaches finding the correct combination.
Air gap from coil to flywheel can be more particular on certain models.
Spark plug type can be particular- aftermarket sparkplugs with exotic names are crap.
What particular model of Stihl are we talking about?
Air gap from coil to flywheel can be more particular on certain models.
Spark plug type can be particular- aftermarket sparkplugs with exotic names are crap.
What particular model of Stihl are we talking about?
This one is the old standard Stihl 271 Farm Boss. The flywheel is original and I am waiting on an OEM Stihl module. I have precisely changed gap settings with no difference noted. The replacement after-market module is suspect, but I never heard of a way to accurately test a flywheel except on a saw.
Today is the first day of spring in Ohio as you are approaching winter in Zealand, right?
Today is the first day of spring in Ohio as you are approaching winter in Zealand, right?
Well if approaching Winter is heading into Autumn- then yes, I guess we are.
Water drains down the hole in an opposite direction as well- but a Stihl 271 is still a Stihl 271.
Check integrity and connection of all earth wires. Only use an OEM ignition module on these, part # 1141-400-1307.
Curious- what caused the coil to be replaced from original?
Did the aftermarket coil run for a few weeks, few months and then you arrived at the situation you have now?
Water drains down the hole in an opposite direction as well- but a Stihl 271 is still a Stihl 271.
Check integrity and connection of all earth wires. Only use an OEM ignition module on these, part # 1141-400-1307.
Curious- what caused the coil to be replaced from original?
Did the aftermarket coil run for a few weeks, few months and then you arrived at the situation you have now?
I have done all the electrical checks, stop switch, etc., all okay. Since you seem interested, I'll give you the history. The old 271 is the mid-size saw in my three-Stihl arsenal. When it became hard to start, then impossible to start, I checked compression and it was only 90 pounds, and I figured the saw was finished. Then I located on eBay a brand new 271 crankcase with crankshaft, bearings, seals, rod. piston, cylinder, and carburetor boot from a dealer who cannibalized a saw for parts. Since the price was less than half that of a new saw, I decided to transfer all the external stuff from my old saw to the new crankcase. I could still not get it started. I used the original carburetor and did the simple rebuild with Stihl parts, replacing the metering diaphragm pump diaphragm. The carburetor held 10 psi on a static test. Then I did what I hate to admit was a lot of parts changing back and forth, an after-market carb and an after-market module. I could occasionally get a spark with a neon tester but have yet to see one on a spark plug grounded to the head. At age 84, I got tired pulling on the recoil although the saw is clamped to a steel table. Having a machine shop, I made a splined adapter to turn the flywheel at decent RPM with an impact driver, and a consistent spark was produced. Okay, so the module works at high speed, but not at the speed I would be pulling it in the woods. The Stihl part number you mentioned is on its way now. This brings us to another question regarding spark testing. It would seem the Echo spark tester is the preferred tool of choice by professionals, which I am not, so I also ordered one of those. It's been a great experience, but I would have been better off to trash the old 271 and buy a new saw. Stihl in the US has had price increase on top of price increase.
Well, I personally would never have invested that kind of time effort and dollars into a 271- certainly not one of my favorite Stihl models.
However, it isnt mine and not my decision.
Could be not enough speed on the rope to make good spark. I like to wrap a bare wire around the threads of the plug and attach other bared end around a known ground- rather than relying on contact alone.
The cheap coils usually work for a short time- then die- not usual for them to be bad from the get go, but anything is possible.
Air leaks can stop a saw from firing- they spark okay- just wont fire up- maybe pop a bit, but not continue to run.
If all that was wrong with your original saw was low compression- the coil should have still been fine.
However, it isnt mine and not my decision.
Could be not enough speed on the rope to make good spark. I like to wrap a bare wire around the threads of the plug and attach other bared end around a known ground- rather than relying on contact alone.
The cheap coils usually work for a short time- then die- not usual for them to be bad from the get go, but anything is possible.
Air leaks can stop a saw from firing- they spark okay- just wont fire up- maybe pop a bit, but not continue to run.
If all that was wrong with your original saw was low compression- the coil should have still been fine.