Chainsaw Status - Husky 445

moonmountainman

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Hi All,
I have moved to Santa Fe and on 24 fairly vertical acres, with I have no idea how many dead bark-beetled trees.
My tool is the already mentioned 445 Husky, which seems to keep running but it just never has flowed bar lube well.
It does not have an adjuster for the oil flow although having the place for one to exist underside, so it would appear some model using the same housing does have a flow adjuster. Would an adjustable fitting from another 4xx version fit as a replacement lube pump?

Or is this just a cheap entry level saw and I should move on?

(There is only a local Stihl dealer, who I'm told doesn't like to spend time on Huskys or other brands), and everyone else like ACE hardware that carry Echo and Stihl don't do local service.)

I'm tempted to do an overhaul of the Husky clutchhousing/chain drive because its grooved. It runs OK but it was "born" at sea level and now resides at 6700 feet, and i suspect it runs a bit rich, but idles fine and the like.

I'm thinking of a stihl 271 with a 16 inch bar, considering the trees I'm cutting down are fairly small diameter and working on steep hillsides a longer bar is a bit clumsier.

I'd like to spend less but so tired of that buy cheap and spend twice.

From what I see here on this forum there are plenty of saws from various brands that have good reps.

Thanks MtnMan
 

Bob Hedgecutter

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Welcome aboard- not a huge amount of traffic here, but I am sure a few will offer up some ideas.

Are you sure the Husqvarna is delivering oil to where it should be delivered?
Bar oil hole clear, bar groove clean? No blockages in the oil delivery system?
Without bar and chain does a decent amount of oil arrive at the bar plate?

Could be time for fresh lines, new pickup filter and system flush with some kerosene or diesel?
What weight of bar oil are you currently using? Would mixing it with a thinner fluid like hydraulic oil, diesel or kerosene make it flow more readily?

The 271- personally I wouldn't- you are out of the frying pan and into the fire there in my opinion.
Depends on the size of the dead trees you need to cut- a 362 would be a much wiser choice- if they are small maybe a 261.
Just like Husqvarna, Stihl make some really good saws- but they also make consumer grade ones, the 271 fits in the latter and not all that well.
There you go, thats my humble opinion- lest see what others have to say.
 

moonmountainman

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Welcome aboard- not a huge amount of traffic here, but I am sure a few will offer up some ideas.

Are you sure the Husqvarna is delivering oil to where it should be delivered?
Bar oil hole clear, bar groove clean? No blockages in the oil delivery system?
Without bar and chain does a decent amount of oil arrive at the bar plate?

Could be time for fresh lines, new pickup filter and system flush with some kerosene or diesel?
What weight of bar oil are you currently using? Would mixing it with a thinner fluid like hydraulic oil, diesel or kerosene make it flow more readily?

The 271- personally I wouldn't- you are out of the frying pan and into the fire there in my opinion.
Depends on the size of the dead trees you need to cut- a 362 would be a much wiser choice- if they are small maybe a 261.
Just like Husqvarna, Stihl make some really good saws- but they also make consumer grade ones, the 271 fits in the latter and not all that well.
There you go, thats my humble opinion- lest see what others have to say.
Thanks for the response, Bob. I'm holding off on buying until I find some objective feedback like yours that is not dealer/sales oriented.
I do know this much, my 445 has a one bolt bar securing system, which seems insane to me.
I need to see my bar lube weight, but it flows like honey. And maybe it's a bit cold in these parts now. I'll see if there is lighter weight stuff available.

It sounds like the 271 is very consumerish. My trees are mostly 14-18 inches, but I've cut bigger ones OK. And it's mostly pinon, so I think that is considered softer wood? I'm really novice at this and am reading/watching all that I can.

I need guidance about bar length - and think longer than I need is not smart on a steep hillside where I do my work.
I do know my next saw will have manually adjustable bar lube flow.

The 362 is pricey, but if it would last forever and is easy on upkeep and handling, I might go that deep. Funny thing, my neighbors all say they spend 200$ per year on firewood, and I who is next to them cannot iimagine running out of wood for at least fifteen years.

Thanks for your input.

Rob
 

Bob Hedgecutter

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Thanks for the response, Bob. I'm holding off on buying until I find some objective feedback like yours that is not dealer/sales oriented.
I do know this much, my 445 has a one bolt bar securing system, which seems insane to me.
I need to see my bar lube weight, but it flows like honey. And maybe it's a bit cold in these parts now. I'll see if there is lighter weight stuff available.

It sounds like the 271 is very consumerish. My trees are mostly 14-18 inches, but I've cut bigger ones OK. And it's mostly pinon, so I think that is considered softer wood? I'm really novice at this and am reading/watching all that I can.

I need guidance about bar length - and think longer than I need is not smart on a steep hillside where I do my work.
I do know my next saw will have manually adjustable bar lube flow.

The 362 is pricey, but if it would last forever and is easy on upkeep and handling, I might go that deep. Funny thing, my neighbors all say they spend 200$ per year on firewood, and I who is next to them cannot iimagine running out of wood for at least fifteen years.

Thanks for your input.

Rob

14-18 inch trees, 15 years worth of cutting @ $200 per annum........ makes the 362 a lot more appealing.
Thing is, treated fairly, a pro grade saw might look a little rough in 10-15 years of cutting for homeowner firewood- odds are it will still be running.
The consumer grade saw doing the same work- maybe not.

Longer bar than needed is a good idea in steep country as it allow all cuts to be made from the safe side of the tree, no walking around a half cut up tree to make cuts from both sides- by longer I do not mean ridiculously longer, for what you are going to be cutting- 20 to 24 inch bar should be fine, maybe 22 inch ideal. Personally I might have two bars, a 20 and a 24/25, swapping them out to suit the wood in question at the time. Plus two bars and chains are real handy if you pinch a bar and can get the powerhead off- fit the other bar and cut the first one out.

If I were you and not me- I would look seriously at the new MS400. True it is expensive- but it is a whole lot of nice strong saw for the expense. I would certainly be looking pro grade in the mid to high 50 to 65cc range. I have been there and done that trying to run consumer 45cc saws to do what a 55cc or 60cc pro saw should be doing, they wear out or break down fast! False economy of low purchase price and short life expectancy.
But, once again- this is just my opinion- after 40 odd years of swinging saws, being very used to pro grade and bigger CC saws, plus I can build "new" saws from wrecks to fill a void in a CC line up, so I am coming from a different perspective.
 

moonmountainman

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Thanks again.
A local Stihl dealer is pointing me at the 261, cuz bad back and all, I prefer light if I can do that.
Thoughts on that one?
It also seems from what I read that there are quite a few happy with husky's, echos and the like. but I also get the point about not going low and consumerish.
 

Bob Hedgecutter

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Best advice for over there seems to be go with the best local dealer support you have in your area- rather than go with a brand name first and worry about a dealer later.
Husqvarna make some fantastic saws, as do Makita/Dolmar, some of the Echo's are pretty good- especially for the initial cost of the machine.

261- good saw, but I might consider it a bit small for your needs- compared to the 362 and 400.
Not my choice though. ;)
 
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