Bad bearing on Stihl 461 Chainsaw?

[Bob Hedgecutter]

If it passes leak down tests, nothing obvious in the rubber components- then the original cylinder could be cleaned up- new piston and rings- good to go.
Hard to tell, but it looks like scoring all around- so possibly light oil/fuel mix or straight gas caught early.
Whilst the cylinder is off I would be flushing the crankcase out well with mixed fuel.

 

[scoff]

* Update *
So I ended up leaving the cylinder and replacing the rest. The chainsaw would now start but not idle long. The chain moved when idling, so I replaced the clutch springs. No more chain movement, the saw can now idle. Yay! A added a new bar and chain so I think I'm good to go.

When I flipped the switch to turn on the heated handlebar to test, the idling got worse and then quit idling. I'm guessing it takes more power to make this go? I'm not sure how the heated handlebar works.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

BUT you did clean all of the transfer off of the inside of the cylinder before slapping a new piston and rings in?

Heated handles should not interfere with idle- one is powered by a volatile explosion of fuel/air under compression and the other by a generator under the flywheel- however, if you also have a heated carb in the mix and it is not sub zero outside.......

 

[scoff]

BUT you did clean all of the transfer off of the inside of the cylinder before slapping a new piston and rings in?

Heated handles should not interfere with idle- one is powered by a volatile explosion of fuel/air under compression and the other by a generator under the flywheel- however, if you also have a heated carb in the mix and it is not sub zero outside.......

I used a scotchbrite pad to polish the cylinder as best as I could. How would you know if there’s a heated carb ?

Oh it looks like mine does have a heated carb element.